I have always gone by “to much is better than not enough” when thinking gas storage, and one tank is better than many. I had a 100 and 3-50’s in a Downeaster I had and it was a PIA to switch tanks.
Boatpoor Im with you. 52gal is not enough. I have my eye on a Moeller 111gal which I think is enough for me.
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Originally posted by boatpoorI have always gone by “to much is better than not enough” when thinking gas storage, and one tank is better than many. I had a 100 and 3-50’s in a Downeaster I had and it was a PIA to switch tanks.
You’d stool yourself on my boat. I got 240 gallons in 5 different tanks on my boat. You know your milage without flow scan!!!
I had a floscan that worked about 50% of the time. I now use a pine 1x1 with 10 gal marks on it from top to bottom. When I put the new tan in I went to a station and put 10 gal in at a tme and madked the stick with a marker the whwn i finished I groved the stick with my table saw. also made 2 backups. When Im dowm to 100 gal its time to go to the hill! I do this in all my boats tanks.
Ditch that console. Get a more rounded one, then have a top built to fit. It will make that hull look more sleek. I hate those square consoles.
Tall Sail Marine
I taking the console out of the boat this weekend. Im with you though it looks awful. Its too heavy for me to get it out of the boat by myself without breaking it. Im going to throw it on Craigslist and see if anyone wants it. People will buy anything.
I tried to sell my console out of my Mako 25 for $100. It sat so long that last week when I borrowed a tractor with a grapple I went nuts flinging it around and crushing it. That was worth $100 to me. I’m going to cut it up and use strips to support a deck I cut out to replace a tank.
Tall Sail Marine
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Originally posted by pghill78I taking the console out of the boat this weekend. Im with you though it looks awful. Its too heavy for me to get it out of the boat by myself without breaking it. Im going to throw it on Craigslist and see if anyone wants it. People will buy anything.
That’s gonna leave a $500 scar…
I worked on supporting the hull at little better today. I added cribbing between the two supports the boat was sitting on and built supports for the side of the hull. The side supports I set 4x4s in the ground and tied them all together. I put “arms” on top of the 4x4s. Lowes wasn’t too happy with me only wanting 2’ of carpet for the arms, but I didn’t want to scratch anything! It isn’t pretty but its functional.
Oh and that bottom paint is in rough shape. Its going to have to last at least a season. I dont really want to deal with it right now.
I removed the rest of the deck minus the front hatch section. Im putting the hatch area off. It fought me the entire way. There were random extra supports that I couldn’t see, and screws that were glassed over at some point. My plan was to take the deck out in 3 big pieces so I could use them as a template if I needed but that plan is out the door. Its in about 10 pieces now.
I know why everything is rotten… the stringers have all been hacked up.
With the deck gone I continued with removing the foam. Its a brutal process.
I need some advice. I am not going to have enough room to access the stringers under the hatches without removing the entire elevated section. I think I have two options here:
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Cut the live wells out and hope that I have enough room to work through the hatches. I think this is feasible but its going to slow me down with the limited working space. I also would have to rebuild the live wells and attach them back in there some how. Will I have enough room to get the fiberglass over the stringers? I haven’t checked yet.
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Cut around the hatches and remove the entire section. This could be difficult depending on how it is attached to the stringers. In theory it should pop off, but I doubt it. Having no fiberglass experience, will I be able to glass it back in without it looking awful?
To piggly back off of option 2, how much of of the original floor do I need to leave attached in order to glass the floor back in? I need to cut more out so I can get the rest of the foam out. Will an 1" work?
Any input would be great guys. This is a close up of the hatches.
Im thinking you might be better off separating the top from the bottom half, or cut the front section off and leave you a 2 inch border to glass back and blend with some faring compound
Something told me to stay home and clean my guns today.
My Dad always said “Son there is not a problem on this earth that can not be solved, with the right application of explosives” Thanks Dad. rest in peace
Without seeing what you’re calling live wells, they gots to come out to get to the stingers if they aren’t solid/bonded…your decision. I doubt they designed a live well up front due to weight and water slosh. Make for good life jacket/fender storage.
You must love this hull. Good luck and get your itch on.
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Originally posted by mdaddyWithout seeing what you’re calling live wells, they gots to come out to get to the stingers if they aren’t solid/bonded…your decision. I doubt they designed a live well up front due to weight and water slosh. Make for good life jacket/fender storage.
You must love this hull. Good luck and get your itch on.
I thought they were completely plumbed but I was wrong. Just drains.
I have a love/hate relationship with the hull right now… But Im excited to enjoy it when its all done.
Not much to see here. Just still working on demo and making a mess.
Here’s a question for us amateur boat builders…if you lower the height of the stringer at some point in its’ run, does making it wider at that point provide the same amount of strength?
I don’t guess im smart enough to under stand what you are saying! You trying to make the floor lower?
Im not quite sure what you are referring to by lowering the stinger… But I did cut the top out of the stringer tonight. Its wider at the top. Looks like 1/8" of glass on the sides and 1/16" on the top. You can see where the tabbing went almost all the way to the top of the stringer. I haven’t decided on a layup schedule but its going to be more than this. Also I’m thinking the stringers are going to be at least doubled up marine plywood.
I had my mind set on not doing the stringers of wood, but I don’t know if the budget is going to allow that.
Sorry I was holding the stringer upside down here.
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Originally posted by mdaddyHere’s a question for us amateur boat builders…if you lower the height of the stringer at some point in its’ run, does making it wider at that point provide the same amount of strength?
Not quite that straight forward. Typically, by cutting down stringer height you actually stiffened the stringer (especially on the tall slender longitudinals). Its now a smaller panel and harder to deflect/bend. This will translate into the hull bottom. Current designs are very careful to make sure the stringer lam and hull bottom lam have similar stiffness or something will crack, typically the stringer to hull lam tabbing.
With that outer longitudinal, I would have no hesitation cutting the stringer down but add double tabbing at those locations.
Edit: I read the rest of your stuff. That stringer lam is probably 3610 on the web (vertical) 1708 on the cap and 1708 tabbing. This boat was built during the land of 1708-3610-24oz woven baot shops so there wasnt a lot of glass to choose from. If your going to modernize it, find a uni glass for the cap, an LTM for the web and quads work great for tabbing.
Also make sure, if you cut down the stringer height, was that supporting the deck? I see capping putty on the sample you are holding so I am going with probably. You can stiffen underside of the deck if you need to.
“If you had to tell someone how good you are, then you probably aren’t that good”
02 Carolina Skiff 175 RG Honda 90 -