I think #1 sounds good but might be difficult to execute. Getting the wet glass sandwiched between the core and outer skin, while keeping it aligned along the top edge of core, while trying to get the core solidly bedded then laying the glass over the edge before all the resin you spread to bed the core and wet the glass starts to gel… sounds like a circus to me. It could definitely be done, you’re just going to have a lot going on.
I would lean more towards #2, might not be quite as strong but a lot more flexibility in when/how you cap it. Gives you time to focus on getting the core set right, then make it pretty later. If you grind a nice bevel in the skin it shouldn’t be too hard to get the seam flat and faired. If you use a router to round over the core, the glass will lay over it very nicely and make a consistent profile on the inner edge. Grinder works too but harder to make it look nice.
Another thing to think about - it’s almost impossible to keep the edges of the glass lined up between layers, so you’re going to have to trim and dress up that inside top edge somehow.
a lot of ways that will work, and it’s going to take some work to make it look nice regardless so pick a method that makes sense to you and go with it.
there’s a reason all the boats of this era have that funky aluminum trim strip over the transom/liner joint…
I think #1 sounds good but might be difficult to execute. Getting the wet glass sandwiched between the core and outer skin, while keeping it aligned along the top edge of core, while trying to get the core solidly bedded then laying the glass over the edge before all the resin you spread to bed the core and wet the glass starts to gel… sounds like a circus to me. It could definitely be done, you’re just going to have a lot going on.
I would lean more towards #2, might not be quite as strong but a lot more flexibility in when/how you cap it. Gives you time to focus on getting the core set right, then make it pretty later. If you grind a nice bevel in the skin it shouldn’t be too hard to get the seam flat and faired. If you use a router to round over the core, the glass will lay over it very nicely and make a consistent profile on the inner edge. Grinder works too but harder to make it look nice.
Another thing to think about - it’s almost impossible to keep the edges of the glass lined up between layers, so you’re going to have to trim and dress up that inside top edge somehow.
a lot of ways that will work, and it’s going to take some work to make it look nice regardless so pick a method that makes sense to you and go with it.
there’s a reason all the boats of this era have that funky aluminum trim strip over the transom/liner joint…
Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150
Is there a valid reason that I can’t have the 1708 already applied to the back of the core? Make it a little longer in between the skin and the core and resin, lets say 2", of it, let it cure with the rest of the glass loose with no resin? Pretty much just sticking it to the core. That way I can came back and glass it over once I get the transom clamps in
I think I get what you’re saying. Basically “glue” a dry piece of cloth to the back of the core, then wet out/flip over at the end. Only thing I see being a concern is making the end you stick down to the core lay down nice and flat, I always seem to get little prickles and lumps at the edges and you want the core to bed nice and tight to the skin. But you could always hit it with a grinder if needed.
I think it could work, sounds like you have a plan so the hard part is done!
I think I get what you’re saying. Basically “glue” a dry piece of cloth to the back of the core, then wet out/flip over at the end. Only thing I see being a concern is making the end you stick down to the core lay down nice and flat, I always seem to get little prickles and lumps at the edges and you want the core to bed nice and tight to the skin. But you could always hit it with a grinder if needed.
I think it could work, sounds like you have a plan so the hard part is done!
Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150
Yep thats what Im saying. I haven’t convinced myself I can pull it off. But I have a couple more days to think about it.
Im open to a third option/opinion if there is one floating out there.
I think I get what you’re saying. Basically “glue” a dry piece of cloth to the back of the core, then wet out/flip over at the end. Only thing I see being a concern is making the end you stick down to the core lay down nice and flat, I always seem to get little prickles and lumps at the edges and you want the core to bed nice and tight to the skin. But you could always hit it with a grinder if needed.
I think it could work, sounds like you have a plan so the hard part is done!
Angler 204 FX
Yamaha 150
Yep thats what Im saying. I haven’t convinced myself I can pull it off. But I have a couple more days to think about it.
Im open to a third option/opinion if there is one floating out there.
You axed for it.
Why do you see that as a necessity? Are yo seeking a stronger bond cause I don’t see how that provides anything structural.
I guess vacuum bagging may work but the more youWORK glass…the more you disturb it.
IMO, the strength needs to be in the corners and flex in the downward pull on the transom from the motor.
Whatever you do, enjoy the itch…you’ll remember it every time you get near fiberglass.
Agree with Wolfie. Getting #1 to work would take some coreography and smooth execution. I kinda like your idea of essentially gluing a strip of material to the back top edge of coring and leaving the flap dry. If, if if you did try to go for #1, if it got tangled, just cut it out of the way, or let it set and grind it off. Then, do #2.
I also agree that this is not a critical joint. I just like the idea of having some fiber capping the top of the transom.
How are you planning on clamping your coring when you bed it?
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
Agree with Wolfie. Getting #1 to work would take some coreography and smooth execution. I kinda like your idea of essentially gluing a strip of material to the back top edge of coring and leaving the flap dry. If, if if you did try to go for #1, if it got tangled, just cut it out of the way, or let it set and grind it off. Then, do #2.
I also agree that this is not a critical joint. I just like the idea of having some fiber capping the top of the transom.
How are you planning on clamping your coring when you bed it?
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
I plan on using 2x4s on each side of the transom with bolts and some standard clamps around the cut out section. I will be counting threads to make sure its all sucked in at a consistent rate. Kinda like this.
Yesterday was quite the adventure. I started by sandwiching the transom cut outs together after a light sanding. There was a bit of a learning curve laying down a layer of CSM in between the layers, but I figured it out. One major issue I wasn’t ready for and didn’t even notice until everything was wet… was the two pieces of wood had warped! I went to sandwich them and they weren’t even touching in the middle. I had to work fast but I got everything pulled in with clamps and some deck screws. Thinking about it now , the warping probably helped in the end. The two sheets were concave to each other so when I pulled everything together it was dead straight.
While the the transom cured I routed the edges and cleaned up some of the mess I left with the CSM. I let the transom sit in the sun for about 3 hours before I took the screws out and it didn’t move at all. I filled the holes with some resin and coated the routed edges.
Getting the transom bedded into the bed was not easily whatsoever. I think if I wasn’t working by myself it would have been an easier job. Getting that heavy transom 5ft into the air to set it in the boat should had been my sign to ask for some help.
I went with option #1 we talked about in previous posts. I knew I had to work fast so I spent a lot of time prepping my materials and getting everything in order. Laying up the 1708 started out really well, it was going on good for the most part. There was some in process trimming to help myself out but it wasn’t a big deal. Then I ran out of my batch of resin before I was done with all of the 1708… A quick sprint to the shed to pump out some more and then I was back at it.
I had 4 batches of thickened resin that I had pre-made staged and I just had to add the MEKP. That stuff went on like a dream with a notched trowel. I used 2x4s for bracing and sucked it to the existing skin while the 1708 was still wet. Resin was squeezing out everywhere so I think I got a good coat on it all.
I put in some fillets around the transom last night. I have plenty of clean up grinding to do. Thickened resin makes a mess. Also I have to pop the supports off to get to the areas behind the 2x4s.
Man, that looks good. It appears you got a pretty good fit with wrapping glass over the top. I’m impressed. I bet that was a real dance to get all that in place before it started to kick off.
It appears there are a few bubbles in the top edge wrap. For the large ones, you may need to grind them out and re-glass (or, just grind them out). But, for most of them (maybe all), especially those that are not in places where the ‘lump’ will effect aesthetics, I think I’d drill and fill and keep the glass fiber intact. Get something like a turkey injector, fill with slightly thickened resin, drill holes at either end of void. Inject from lower end. Quick. Easy.
Looks good, though. Solid transom in the making.
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
Man, that looks good. It appears you got a pretty good fit with wrapping glass over the top. I’m impressed. I bet that was a real dance to get all that in place before it started to kick off.
It appears there are a few bubbles in the top edge wrap. For the large ones, you may need to grind them out and re-glass (or, just grind them out). But, for most of them (maybe all), especially those that are not in places where the ‘lump’ will effect aesthetics, I think I’d drill and fill and keep the glass fiber intact. Get something like a turkey injector, fill with slightly thickened resin, drill holes at either end of void. Inject from lower end. Quick. Easy.
Looks good, though. Solid transom in the making.
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
A “dance” is an understatement. I should have listened to yall but I got it done in the end.
I have done some clean up work on it since. I just need to post some pictures. It looks way better. Its been too cold to do any glass after work this week, but it looks like it is warming up this weekend.
I am going to at least get it tabbed in all the way around this weekend.
One big learning experience I gained from it all is that I should have taped off about 6" passed the transom. During my “dance” I had lots of drips all over the place and I dropped some quarter sized globs of thickened resin. It would have saved me some grinding.
Looking good! nothing a little grinding won’t fix. And you could always cap everything with another layer of glass if you need to.
if you don’t have something similar, get yourself a die grinder and some 1" flap cartridges for sanding down those fillets that didn’t come out quite as nice as you wanted. I use mine with a router speed controller. You will find a million uses for it. Trust me on this… changed my life.
Wolfie - I will add that to harbor freight tool collection or just borrow one from work. Thats a good idea.
I worked on taking the stringers for about an hour tonight until I got my pinky finger stuck in the sawzall mechanism… Don’t worry I was lucky and it just got crushed not cut off. But I will be bringing my cut level 5 gloves home for work too.
Wolfie - I will add that to harbor freight tool collection or just borrow one from work. Thats a good idea.
I worked on taking the stringers for about an hour tonight until I got my pinky finger stuck in the sawzall mechanism… Don’t worry I was lucky and it just got crushed not cut off. But I will be bringing my cut level 5 gloves home for work too.
Have gotten my index finger in between the chuck and body of the sawzall. Amazingly, how quickly it’ll beat the crap out of your figure. And, amazing how quickly your brain tells you to stop that it hurts.
And, wolfie and I are going to end up with mutual admiration society if this keeps up. Even so, good advice on getting those fillets smooth. It’ll make void free layup much much easier… Time spent on fillets makes for a much quicker and stronger build.
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
You know you can heat that resin up in a microwave and keep working in the cold…don’t you?
Keeping it from blowing up is what you gots to worry about…
Great work pghill78
I know I need to get everyone a couple of pictures. I have been out of town and the weather has sucked.
I’m hoping to have all the stringers out by Thursday so I can start grinding.
I haven’t glassed in the transom yet. Every time I have enough time to work on it, its raining. But its prepped and ready for another coat of resin. I want to wait until I can do the entire transom in one day so I don’t have to grind between layups.
I’ve noticed the epoxy resin I get from Clark Craft stays workable longer in cool weather.Also on the flap cartridges,we always referred to them as chicken pluckers.haha
