Optiker, my hull ID number is 17218… guess they made a few of those boats that year…
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
Optiker, my hull ID number is 17218… guess they made a few of those boats that year…
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
I applied a 3rd coat and the roller I used left little fibers in the paint. I re-sanded to knock down the fibers and applied a 4th coat which resulted in the best finish so far, but I’m not 100% content with the results as I still have fine brush marks that are showing up and I’m not sure what can/should be done about it. I’ve done some looking at online forums with regard to Brightsides and see lots of ideas including wet sanding then buffing or using a paste wax. Not sure what to do. Anyone ever tried wet sanding and buffing Brightsides before?
The sides of the boat look the best, but some fine brush marks are still visible where you can see the reflection of the frame for a bimini top.
The bow/bottom of the hull show the brush marks more clearly.
Any suggestions would be appreciated…
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
Add a little more thinner to the paint and it will flow out smoother. Use a foam roller to apply and a foam brush for tipping. Roll out about 2 square feet, tip it, then move to the next, keeping a wet line as you go.
Capt. Larry Teuton
912-six55-5674
lteuton at aol dot com
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
Pm coming to you
Scout 185
I was able to get in touch with the tech department at Interlux to discuss the brush marks I was dealing with. I explained to him that the retailer had made varying application instructions with regard to types of rollers and brushes (includeing shed resistant cloth and high density foam rollers as well as foam and natural fiber boar hair brushes) all of which I had tried in the various coats applied as well as thinning per Interlux guidelines. Although he believed the paint should lay down fine without tipping he stated that wet sanding followed by polishing compound was a viable solution. Per that conversation I wet sanded a test area on the bottom of the hull beginning with 800 grit, then 1500 and finally 2000, followed by polishing compound with a foam pad. The results are encouraging, but I believe I can still improve on the appearance with using a scratch remover on a foam pad after the polishing compound, but it did do a good job of removing the brush marks and I ended up with a decent shine.
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
It’s just a boat bottom, how close are people going to really look at boat bottoms?
One thing I’ve learned building boats is the road to perfection never ends and you can chase that last 2% to make it perfect forever. Don’t let perfect get in the way of dang good enough
Capt. Larry Teuton
912-six55-5674
lteuton at aol dot com
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
Wise words, especially when it will likely get scratched on an oyster bed or two before long
2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
www.ralphphillipsinshore.com
Agreed on the “dang good enough”… although it’s against my nature to settle I was beginning to feel like I would be chasing the 2% you mentioned. I’m not so sure I wouldn’t have gone a bit postal if I’d gone to all the work for a 5th coat and still had brush marks. At any rate the sense of positive accomplishment is restored at this point.
Yep, the crunch of that 1st oyster bed is going to kill me…
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
It’s finished. Thanks to all who made suggestions
Now to put it to use!
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
Unbelievable job, Tallman! Looks like a brand new boat. You should be very proud.
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
Great job ! Good looking boat.
2013 Tidewater 180CC
115 Yamaha
Beautiful
2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
www.ralphphillipsinshore.com
You might have achieved perfect after all:sunglasses: Beautiful work, well done!
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Man, what a beautiful boat. You did an awesome job. Not to sound picky, because it looks great with them either way, but are those the right decals for that vintage. I only ask, because I just went through new decals on mine, and Whaler said they switched to the 14" version in the late 70s, and all previous boats had the small decal. Just curious, I would actually display the proud 14" logo anyway. Nothing puts the final touch on these boats like a new decal.
Congrats!
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
Thank you all for the kind comments. Larry, it’s not perfect but “she’s close enough to perfect for me”, and I am proud of what I have. Geronimo, I didn’t look into anything about the decal’s beyond what I was given when I bought the boat. I got it late last fall from the Whaler dealer down in Beaufort. When I bought it I asked for him to throw in a set of decals which he did (I somehow needed a reminder of what I hoped it would eventually be). Anyway, I had no clue there were any other possibilities but agree the decals do set it up to look fresh.
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50