i removed the rub rail today, the deck section came down and and was screwed to the hull, and was siliconed all the way around i found a area in the back where the silicone had separated from the hull and there was probably 2-3mm gap about 6-8" long where water could get when its being fanned away from the boat wile its moving , there was also a small dime sized hole in the back right corner of the silicone below the rub rail where the metal rail on the transom area in the back meets the cap of the rub rail. here are some pictures i had all ready started removing the silicone to reapply it, what you guys think could these areas be the cause of her going down?
Jason, the hatch is threaded but it never stops turning just keeps spinning. also thanks when its all said and done i will definitely give ya a call means alot!
ok i pulled off the aluminum trim from the top of the transom to find a silicone mess it looked pretty sealed but was nasty looking, so i sanded it all down, cleaned it out and snapped a few pictures, all tho i know how to use fiberglass and what not the rest of the boat looked liked it was just screwed together and siliconed under the rub rail, is this the same case with this area of the boat? or should it be fiberglassed together? thanks for the input guys. below are the pictures.
You found your leak Good on you for pulling that rub rail, I know it’s a pain, but that’s where it had to be. Boats don’t sink for no reason. That deck plate should be watertight, and leave the motor well drains open all the time. If you regularly get water over the transom, I’d add another drain hole. It should shed water as fast as it takes it.
Don’t use a silicone sealant for that joint, use a good marine adhesive like 3M 5200. Ideally it should be sealed for life.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Small craft surveying and repair
Larry i Can’t thank you enough for your wisdom thanks soooooo much! im going to try to get this fixed with in the next few weeks ill post some pictures when its finished, i’m going to clean that seam up with the grinder as best as possible and if you think its ugly now you should have seen what it looked like with the silicone i swear my 5 year old could have done a better job then who ever did it last… i have a two more questions for ya can you recommend a good single stage marine paint i can compressor spray with? wile i got this rub rail off and the fiberglass out i might as well give her a paint job. also is there a paint putty for boats like there is for cars? AGAIN Larry Thank you!
While you were in the stern water was leaking in.Get the automatic switch wired in.Great meeting you guys at the party.Stretch will get the Wife walking the flats for reds.Told him to get with her.Take Colin with you.Best learn there is.
quote:can you recommend a good single stage marine paint i can compressor spray with? wile i got this rub rail off and the fiberglass out i might as well give her a paint job. also is there a paint putty for boats like there is for cars?
The MarineTex suggested above is very good for filling holes, and sands easily. Also System 3 Quick Fair is an excellent marine filler.
For single part paint that won’t break the bank, Petit Easypoxy and Interlux Brightside are both great.
quote:AGAIN Larry Thank you!
Glad to help. I’d hate to think that somebody got hurt out there that I could have done something to prevent.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Small craft surveying and repair
quote:
Jason, the hatch is threaded but it never stops turning just keeps spinning. also thanks when its all said and done i will definitely give ya a call means alot!
No worries buddy. That what we are all trying to do on CF.com. Definitely glad you did some more digging and found the problem. As we already determined, that situation could have been A LOT worse. Now, you should feel much safer out on the water knowing you have done a little more work on the vessel. As far as those hatches, I might swap them out with ones with an o-ring and tighter seal, since they are going into hatches with no drains. Not too expensive.
my boat is set up the same as this in the rear. If you look at where your steering cable goes through the boot into the hull it is close to water level. when hanging out in the summer time my kids like to sit on my poling platform and i have to watch out for to many people at the back of the boat at one time because water in the splash well will go in threw the boot and the more water in the lower the transom goes and the more water comes in filling the hull. scary that if you look at it in the water that big hole to the hull is inches above water line and in the splash well. Every time i back off the trailer my slash well fills up and some water goes threw the boot in the hull and your boot looks split
Avid Drinker With A Slight Fishing Problem
There is a fine line between fishing and standing on the bank like an idiot!!
Thanks guys all the advice is making me feel more comfortable going out in the boat once its fixed! i’ve placed my order threw Jamestown Distributors i went to west marine in North Charleston, he tried to help a little but it seamed like me and my son was bugging the guy, so i just left and ended up finding this place online to place my order threw. wile i was watching some product comparison videos i found a code for free shipping woot.(SHIP4FREE) they were also cheaper in price then west marine by about $100 on the total order.
all ready had the fiber glass and mat. and new hatches. looking forward to getting her fixed back up and going fishing once again!
Also i’m having a bit of trouble finding the Aluminum trim for the top of the transom, any one know a place i can get one from locally its nothing special just angle but needs to be formed to the boat so im not sure who does there here in town.
I use Jamestown a lot, they are good folks to deal with.
I would not even replace the aluminum trim angle on the transom. The only reason it was there was to hide that sloppy joint. I would fill the joint with thickened epoxy, then fiberglass over it and fair it in. Seal the joint completely and make it disappear, then paint. You don’t have to hide it:smiley:
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Small craft surveying and repair
sweet glad to hear that there good folks was kinda curious, have you ever used the bondo glass product (has fiber in it)? was think of using it as the filler for the seam then glassing over top i have several cans in the shop i use it for metal stair repairs. or should a i get a epoxy if so got a good one in mind? only have ever used the kind that holds sinks to garnet tops from underneath its a 3m product but not sure if it be good for marine application.
thanks again Larry!
17’ Chris Craft
100hp 4 stroke
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat all day drinking beer.
No to the Bondo products. They are polyester based and have no strength properties or adhesive values. This is a structural repair and needs structural glues and glass.
Use a good marine epoxy such as West System, MAS, or System 3. There are also some good generic marine epoxies available for less $, such as Marinepoxy from Bateau. You will need a filler also, to thicken it for making glue. You can also mix lighter fillers with it for patching cosmetic holes and fairing. I usually use wood flour for glue filler.
This is the supplier I use for epoxy, fillers and glass. I’ve used a couple hundred gallons of their Marinepoxy, it’s great stuff for the price and much cheaper than West Stytem.
Just a suggestion, but maybe you should move this repair project to the Boats and Motors section, before the Internet police show up and complain about our fishing report
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Small craft surveying and repair