it never needs it but it keeps the bolts from freezing up.
Good advice for hydraulic steering rams, too, and trim mounting bolts, and screws holding the pump head on the wash down, and the steering wheel, and all manner of pieces and parts on an I/O. Jeez, preventive maintenance knows few bounds … 
I had the same problem with an old pressure washer pump. Although the bolts were smaller I put nut on the broken bolt so that I could tap on it with a 21 oz hammer. The constant tapping vibration eventually loosen the bolts enough to use vise grips. 3 bolts 2.5 hours of tapping…hope you to find somrpehting that works!
I have a similar situation with the handlebar zinc on the bracket. I now need a machine shop to help remove the bolts. Can someone recommend one that does a good job at a fair price?
Thanks
SWJ
wrongtide
try the vise grips with heat like madfire said
welding a nut on will just mean you can turn it with a wrench instead of visegrips
it wont change the breaking point of the bolt
quote:
Originally posted by chris Vwrongtide
try the vise grips with heat like madfire said
welding a nut on will just mean you can turn it with a wrench instead of visegrips
it wont change the breaking point of the boltwww.teamcharlestonmarine.com
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Also remember that welding the nut will also temper the bolt making it much harder to drill if it comes to that. So much room for vise grips now!
quote:
Originally posted by chris Vwelding a nut on will just mean you can turn it with a wrench instead of visegrips
it wont change the breaking point of the boltwww.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.joinrfa.org
Exactly… The only advantage of the nut is to get a better bite on it with a wrench. Sometimes the vise grips won’t bite the bolt hard enough and just spin if the bolt is stuck in there real good. This is where welding the nut comes into play but try the vise grips with the heat first.
07 Scout Winyah Bay 221 Yamaha F150
Want to revisit an old post…so what do you do if you have this same problem but the lower unit is still attached? Wrung of 4 of 6 bolts on a '96 Yamaha 40. They are flush where unit meets shaft. I would like to try above advice but have to get l/u off first. Will post a pic later.
Any suggestions?
BGC
There are centering pins
they usually get a bit of corrosion on them and make the lower unit stick to the mid section.
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Thanks for responding. Any suggestions on how to separate so I can work on those bolts with the heat/penetrating spray method?
BGC
small wedge/chiesel
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welding should be done patiently. as was said before , aluminum conducts heat very rapidly and will cause the bolt to expand. Have the penetrating oil ready as the bolt cools down, as the bolt contracts back to ambient temp it will suck in the oil. I have also placed a chunk of dry ice on the bolt to contract it even smaller with success.
Thank you both for the tips. Chris V, a 45 degree cut on 2x4 worked very well as a wedge. I know have the lower unit separated from the shaft! Ran out of daylight yesterday so will get back on it today. Will post my results.
BGC
Got em all. Thanks again guys. 1 last question…what kind of anti-seize does everyone use when they put them in to avoid this altogether?
BGC
quote:
Originally posted by Tarpon120Got em all. Thanks again guys. 1 last question…what kind of anti-seize does everyone use when they put them in to avoid this altogether?
BGC
Most are Aluminum powder based which works well just messy, don’t get the copper based anit seize.
I prefer a good heavy duty nlgi 2 grease with 3% moly
“live and let live” … “those that deserve it.”
Hi there everone so I just wanted to suggest instead replacing the bolts in the foot if there is room use stainless steel sruds with nuts. I Run mercury motors 25hp and up. All my motors are older 2 strokes. Ive replaced a many water jacket gaskets on the heads of motors and thos bolts always break. An im the type of person everytime I pickup a new to me motor I always put new water pump, thermostat, clean and rebuild carbs, and replace oil seal gasket alon with the water jacket gasket on head that spark plugs go through. 75 percent of the time bolts break. So I replace all bolts with new studs. That way in the future I dont have to worry about tapping old broke bolts out.
Hi there everone so I just wanted to suggest instead replacing the bolts in the foot if there is room use stainless steel sruds with nuts. I Run mercury motors 25hp and up. All my motors are older 2 strokes. Ive replaced a many water jacket gaskets on the heads of motors and thos bolts always break. An im the type of person everytime I pickup a new to me motor I always put new water pump, thermostat, clean and rebuild carbs, and replace oil seal gasket alon with the water jacket gasket on head that spark plugs go through. 75 percent of the time bolts break. So I replace all bolts with new studs. That way in the future I dont have to worry about tapping old broke bolts out.
DO NOT USE ANTI SEIZE
USE BLUE GREASE.
IF YOU DO THE MAINTENANCE LIKE YAMAHA RECOMMENDS, AND PUT GREASE ON THE BOLTS WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER, YOU WONT EVER HAVE ANY ISSUES.
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Thanks again Chris V. I already reassembled using the silver aluminum base anti-seize. Will take back off clean up and put marine grease instead. Appreciate your expertise.
BGC