I had a Kistler and it was the best rod ever hands down. I caught trout, reds, big striper and a 25 lb dolphin on it. A kid slammed a car door on it and that was that. Are they still in business. .?
Redstripe- Kistler is still in business although prices are getting out of site.
Cola-Hoo- Most of the suggestions you have received are all top-notch albeit VERY expensive. I have at least 1 of all the rods suggested, but for the money, day in and day out, I would go with the Hurricane Calico Jack 7 ft med. lt. for trout, med. for reds. It retails for around 59-69 dollars. I have no affiliation with the company, but they are light, strong, and sensitive, plus they have the correct amount of tip action for throwing lighter lures on braid and enough backbone to handle any red or trout inshore. At this price, I would just get 1 to compare to rods in the $129-$199 range. If I had to choose just 1, I would go with the med/lt, 7’0.
On a side note, beware high end spinning rods with micro eyes! Look closely at the first eyelet and make sure it has an opening at least the size of a quarter and that the ascending eyes get progressively smaller, not sharply smaller. Rods that have too small eyelets or too many eyelets rob casting distance because of how the line comes off of a spinning reel. The larger the spool of your spinning reel, the larger the first eyelet needs to be in order to achieve maximum casting distance.
On that note, I’m gonna jack this thread a little, but I think the OP got the answers he was looking for,What is the deal with those first eyelets that have the smaller eyelet inside them? Anyone educated on that subject? Saw them and was curious.
2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
www.ralphphillipsinshore.com
quote:
On a side note, beware high end spinning rods with micro eyes!
Funny you mention that. I swear I seem to recall the Axl rods having those and when I asked the guy why, he said they cut down on wind knots.
I’ll have to check out those Hurricane rods, I’m all about affordability.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
It was developed by the late Doug Hannon, aka, The Bass Professor. They are called wave eyelets and are supposed to address the problem mentioned in my former post due to friction and line-slap. It always looked kind of like a gimmick, and I didn’t understand logically how the problem was going to be lessened by the design, so I never tried them.
quote:
Originally posted by OptikerOn that note, I’m gonna jack this thread a little, but I think the OP got the answers he was looking for,What is the deal with those first eyelets that have the smaller eyelet inside them? Anyone educated on that subject? Saw them and was curious.
2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
www.ralphphillipsinshore.com
To follow up with:
JLee - I use 15-20# power pro with a 20-25# 18-24" fluorocarbon leader and always keep my drags light. I like your suggestion on using the Teramar’s for the popping corks. I have four 7" M/F, they have worked perfectly when fishing that way and will save me the $'s.
DFreedom – I will look into the Hurricane Calico Jacks as well. I know they are extremely popular in the panhandle of FL and I think they also make Redbone roads which are popular in the Keys.
I did stop by PSA today in Cola looking to compare the G Loomis Inshore, ALX BOKU, Cashion, St. Croix and Falcon rods. Of course and not to blame PSA for not carrying more saltwater tackle due to location to the coast. I wasn’t able to compare all or any the ones I wanted too. They did have the G Loomis Inshore in 7’6” M/XF not the ML/XF I was looking for and the ALX BOKU Slot 76 not the Spec 76 I was looking for. I was able to compare both with a 3000FA Shimano Stradic ci4 attached and both weighed about the same. To be honest I couldn’t tell much difference other than the size of the guides and the ALX was slightly a little stiffer than the G Loomis. The guides running up to the tip where much smaller on the ALX vs the G Loomis and the tip guide was noticeably smaller than the G Loomis (anyone have an explanation). The Cashion is a nice rod but didn’t have the Redfish or Trout series only their freshwater versions so I wasn’t able to make a good comparison but they did feel and look a lot like the ALX other than the rod handles. I also wasn’t able to compare the St. Croix or Falcon. Might have to pay Scott as visit at Haddrells my next time down to check them out along with the Star Plasma’s.
Smaller guides=less weight. Lots of manufacturers have gotten caught up in overall weight and have sacrificed some performance with making the guides too small on spinning rods IMO. This is not an issue with bait casting rods.
Has anyone fished a rod with micro-guides? I saw them on a rod building site BTW I bought a push pole from them and it has held up OK for 3 piece.
From mud hole.com
Micro guides reduce line slap when traveling through the guides, and distribute stress more evenly along the entire blank - generally resulting in longer casts, improved sensitivity, and more overall power from your rod blank. If you are considering micro guides, check out our selection of sizes, colors and materials from Fuji, REC, CRB, and American Tackle
17 MAVERICK HPX-V
I’ve always been concerned with smaller guides closest to the reel when throwing braid. I have heard that the first guide not lining up with or being too small blamed for slowing the line flow and causing wind knots. IDK if that’s correct, but it seemed like an unnecessary risk to go with the micro-guides. Hoping a rod building expert will weigh in on this thread.
FWIW: I’ve fished for many years with freshwater rods from reputable makers with no ill results. I do wash them down every trip. I have an old Falcon 7’ Med bait caster with a Shimano Curado reel that I’ve used for over 20 years in salt and fresh and it’s finally time for a replacement. Given the choice, I go with saltwater rigs, but I wouldn’t shy away from good deals on freshwater gear.
Lastly, I’ve heard other good reviews of the Hurricane Calico Jacks and checked them out at my local Dicks for guest rods on my boat. All they had were 7’6" and the Med. seemed a little softer in the tip than I’m used to. I justified going with Star Stellarlites instead by printing off some $20 Off of $100 sale coupons that are readily available on the web making the Stars $80 effectively. Paired with Shimano Symetre 2500s, I think they’re gonna make good guest rigs that I’m still happy fishing with.
All that said, I still suggest going with a local shop when possible. It’s worth it to support our local dealers that will hopefully help if you ever need to send a rod/reel back.
16’ High Tide Flats (Green) w/Yamaha 90
Wilderness Ride 135
Wilderness Tarpon 120
The guides on the ZOLO and IKOS ALX rods aren’t true “micro guides.” They’re slightly larger. The BOKU series uses even larger guides to accommodate line/leader knots to allow the knot to pass through the guides easier. Plus they’re a different material for corrosion resistance.
Good luck on your search. You’ll know when you feel it.
In the future, where every stranger poses a potential threat, knowing the predator mindset is the only safe haven.
Xpress H20B Bay Series
Yamaha 115 SHO
quote:
Originally posted by INSHORE LTCHas anyone fished a rod with micro-guides? I saw them on a rod building site BTW I bought a push pole from them and it has held up OK for 3 piece.
From mud hole.com
Micro guides reduce line slap when traveling through the guides, and distribute stress more evenly along the entire blank - generally resulting in longer casts, improved sensitivity, and more overall power from your rod blank. If you are considering micro guides, check out our selection of sizes, colors and materials from Fuji, REC, CRB, and American Tackle17 MAVERICK HPX-V
I actually used to use Boyd Duckett Micro Magic rods for inshore. I really liked them but I kind of stumbled into a deal on three of different weights/actions so I figured I’d try them. Never had a complaint but after almost 5 years of fishing them they are starting to show their age and have had a few minor repairs so I put them aside and started trying others. I cant say I experienced any better or worse casting from them but I did feel like they had a little better action when fighting heavier/stronger fish on the lighter tackle. I personally prefer to fish on the light side of the range for most species.
It’s all about the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd eyelet on a spinning rod. They need to start large (enough) and far enough away from the rod, then taper consistently for maximum distance. Too many guides also detracts from casting distance. More guides=more friction.
quote:
Originally posted by INSHORE LTCHas anyone fished a rod with micro-guides? I saw them on a rod building site BTW I bought a push pole from them and it has held up OK for 3 piece.
From mud hole.com
Micro guides reduce line slap when traveling through the guides, and distribute stress more evenly along the entire blank - generally resulting in longer casts, improved sensitivity, and more overall power from your rod blank. If you are considering micro guides, check out our selection of sizes, colors and materials from Fuji, REC, CRB, and American Tackle17 MAVERICK HPX-V
I think the wave guides essentially funnel the line through the guide so the line isn’t hitting the guide at max amplitude as it oscillates through (at least in theory). Seems like would add a lot of weight to your overall setup and therefore decrease sensitivity.
The microguides are a total PIA if you have to string your line through especially in cold weather. Plus I don’t think they offer much benefit.
You’ve been offered some good suggestions. You can get ridiculously technical but IMO sensitivity is much more important when trout fishing. For reds, most of the time accuracy with your cast is the most important piece. For those reasons, I typically try to fish the lightest setup I can get away with for increased sensitivity (plus it won’t wear you out if you’re casting all day) and generally 7’ rods or less for better accuracy and sensitivity. Lots of factors to consider but those are my big ones.
I like the higher end Loomis stuff but they aren’t cheap. The NRX blank used on their drop shot rods is insanely sensitive which is in part due to it’s low weight and shorter length but also the materials and construction. That being said, i don’t know if that holds true for their cheaper rods. I wasn’t overly impressed with the E6x lineup you mentioned but admittedly have not fished it. For the budget you’re looking at, I’d go with St Croix. Great bang for your buck. May also want to look at 13 but don’t know anyone that carries them in Charleston. The few I’ve seen are pretty solid.
Don’t forget about the warranty.
quote:
Originally posted by YnRI think the wave guides essentially funnel the line through the guide so the line isn’t hitting the guide at max amplitude as it oscillates through (at least in theory). Seems like would add a lot of weight to your overall setup and therefore decrease sensitivity.
The microguides are a total PIA if you have to string your line through especially in cold weather. Plus I don’t think they offer much benefit.
You’ve been offered some good suggestions. You can get ridiculously technical but IMO sensitivity is much more important when trout fishing. For reds, most of the time accuracy with your cast is the most important piece. For those reasons, I typically try to fish the lightest setup I can get away with for increased sensitivity (plus it won’t wear you out if you’re casting all day) and generally 7’ rods or less for better accuracy and sensitivity. Lots of factors to consider but those are my big ones.
I like the higher end Loomis stuff but they aren’t cheap. The NRX blank used on their drop shot rods is insanely sensitive which is in part due to it’s low weight and shorter length but also the materials and construction. That being said, i don’t know if that holds true for their cheaper rods. I wasn’t overly impressed with the E6x lineup you mentioned but admittedly have not fished it. For the budget you’re looking at, I’d go with St Croix. Great bang for your buck. May also want to look at 13 but don’t know anyone that carries them in Charleston. The few I’ve seen are pretty solid.
Don’t forget about the warranty.
The weight difference with microwave guides is minimal at best and barely discernible. I’ve been using rods (casting and spinning) with “micro guides” for years and haven’t experienced the “PIA” you speak of. The benefits of micro guides are many and
good post bangstick
my Heliums include models with and without micro guides. I wouldnt buy a new rod without the microguides. I,m actually in the process of sending my old ones back to Trey to have the guides replaced with micros
Have you ever used a rod with acid wrapped guides?
You’re misinterpreting what I wrote. I didn’t mention anything about action. Lighter weight as in the mass not action results in a more sensitive rod all other factors being equal. If you look at most every finesse rod out there, they’re lighter in weight and usually 7’ or less. So instead of buying an expensive, cutting edge tech rod you can just go down a line class in a given line of cheaper rods and up your sensitivity.
As for the micro guides. I have some rods that have them and some don’t. Other than weight savings, you don’t get much. I think they’re overhyped on a spinning rod. Most of the benefits that are claimed are generally only applicable to bait casting setups where I completely agree that they give you something.
You can’t simply discount the quality of rod components when talking about the sensitivity of a rod, spinning or casting. Plus, you can’t disregard the line being used and how it affects the sensitivity of a rod. After all, the line is what transmits everything to the rod and then the rod to your hand.
Point being, there are several variables to sensitivity, not just the rod itself.
We’ll have to agree to disagree on the micro guides and spinning rods. You can most definitely catch fish without microguides but I wouldn’t say “other than weight savings, you don’t get much.”
In the future, where every stranger poses a potential threat, knowing the predator mindset is the only safe haven.
Xpress H20B Bay Series
Yamaha 115 SHO
The reason I think that micro guides are over blown is that the guides have to be appropriately spaced on the rod to achieve what they set out to accomplish. You can’t just put the micro guides on the rod wherever you want and expect them to improve any or all the performance aspects. Since every reel has different dimensions and every line has a differing level of flexibility, resistance, memory, etc than it’s extremely challenging for a rod manufacturer to get the guides spaced correctly apart in order to achieve maximum castability while spacing them apart to distribute the load appropriately along the blank and at the same time not placing so many guides that you negate the weight savings. It’s complicated, and few manufacturers get it right or even attempt to. On top of that, even if the manufacturer got it right for one reel and line combo, it may not work well for another. I never discounted anything else and never discounted other aspects such as line choice so again don’t misinterpret what I’ve posted. In fact, I would agree with you completely that line choice makes a huge difference on how your setup performs and can often compensate for a rod that doesn’t cast well or have great sensitivity. However, the OP was asking about rods. I replied with an answer about rods.
Nail on the head!
quote:
Originally posted by YnRThe reason I think that micro guides are over blown is that the guides have to be appropriately spaced on the rod to achieve what they set out to accomplish. You can’t just put the micro guides on the rod wherever you want and expect them to improve any or all the performance aspects. Since every reel has different dimensions and every line has a differing level of flexibility, resistance, memory, etc than it’s extremely challenging for a rod manufacturer to get the guides spaced correctly apart in order to achieve maximum castability while spacing them apart to distribute the load appropriately along the blank and at the same time not placing so many guides that you negate the weight savings. It’s complicated, and few manufacturers get it right or even attempt to. On top of that, even if the manufacturer got it right for one reel and line combo, it may not work well for another. I never discounted anything else and never discounted other aspects such as line choice so again don’t misinterpret what I’ve posted. In fact, I would agree with you completely that line choice makes a huge difference on how your setup performs and can often compensate for a rod that doesn’t cast well or have great sensitivity. However, the OP was asking about rods. I replied with an answer about rods.
I’ve brought in about 20 fish this past year (fresh/salt - 2 … 20 lbs) on my Ugly Stik GX2 6’ rod… it is my all time favorite inshore rod. Light and tight, very responsive, love it!