There are a lot of good vices out ther in the market right now, just be careful what you end up getting into something that you don’t and won’t use, you can go way over the top with a lot features and functions that you don’t really need for warm water tying. I used a Cam/Lever Style Regal for years and it worked great. In fact I belevie that I picked it up for well under a $100.00. However since the Rotery styles vises hit the market, I really like my Renzett’s Saltwater Travler which has the Pedestal Base & the Cam Lever style hook holder. For what it’s worth, I think that the level style hook holer is much easier to work with than the older style screw in type set ups. I can tie a lot more flies easier, quicker and much more conveniently without hurting the tips of my fingers with this set up than I can with the screw in type holder. Just make sure that what ever vise you go with for saltwater tying it will accomidate a wide range of hook sizes on the larger size. Why you won’t need something that holds the extremly large say a 10/0 to 12/0 or the extremely small say a 24’s, 26’s & 28’s, it’s nice to have something that will secure a 8,6,4, or 2 just as secure as it will hold a something in the 1/0’s to 5/0’s range. Fortunately, most of the better quality vises on the market will accomodate this range fine.
As for what it’s going to cost you to get in and stay in the fly tying game. I’d say that you’ll spend anywhere from a $100.00 to $300.00 on a good Rotery Vice, then drop an additional $100.00 on some good ceramic Bobbins, Scissors and a few basic tying tools including a good Tool Cady to keep you stuff organized and handy when you tie.
That should leave you a couple of hundred for Thread, Hooks, Weights & Materials. If you plan to tie mostly saltwater patterns, I’d stay away from the more expensive capes and go with the less expensive Hackles and Marabou. I’d also pick up some nice 2 to 3 inch long soft and full buck tails in a variety of colors along with some Straight Cut Bunny or Zonker Stri
thanks. i think that its a bit out of my reach right now, but looks like something i would like to get into in the future. how much does wind affect your casting? even a light a breeze? ive been throwing the long rod off the dock into the wind and as soon as the wind picks up the least bit my cast go to hell . not that there good now anyways. but does it make that much of a difference??
Makes a HUGE difference. When it’s to your back, it’s good because it helps you get a longer cast - but when it’s a cross wind or to your face, you’ve got to adjust your cast.
I’m going hunting tomorrow, but if you have time Tuesday morning, I can get with you to help you out some. I’m still no expert, but I can show you what I’ve learned - I’m sure it will help some.
hey frenzy i have to work tuesday morning but im free the rest of the week. hunting too. man im jealous, im trying to get back into duck hunting i havent been since i was little.
i will go back to my suggestion to buy out someone who started ands found they didnt like it on ebay. i have seen picnic tables of stuff go for less than $400. i would say that you could get going for $50 or less. the kits are ok but as frenzy found they cant be all things to all people so getting only the stuff you need today in small packs is a viable strategy as jmb says.
if you pick the right deal on ebay you let them assemble the stuff and then sell the whole lot. if they lay it out and list each item i find that you pay about 20-25% retail. everybody knows whats there and what it cost. if its just a mystery box you pay about 5%-10%. i only look at stuff that has been bid on by at least 4 other people and sellers with excellent records.
my list of ways to economize are these
start with just cheap fresh hooks or tubes or toothpicks or similar til you get a feel. when you get a pattern down get some good hooks.
any gel spun polyester thread will get you started. old fine(6-8) braided line is fine.
ceramic bobbins are wonderful and if you find you like it pick up a few. but you can get going with one of the plastic ones that come in each box of long spool gudebrods.
4 get your natural stuff from friends. you can get more turkey, teal,pheasant, bucktail, deer belly, squirrel tail, coon tail, than you can tie in a long time.
get some synthetics from the dollar tree or salvation army store. kids wigs, boas, xmas flashy stuff, feather dusters etc.
you need a vice. you could tie from a shop vice or a pair of vice grips lashed to an upside down stool leg. BUT if you find you like tying i would get something that rotates to some degree. the regal style has served me well.
bottom line there is no upper limit to what you can pay for stuff. but the best hackles are for tiny flies. they usually have no use for the big stuff you need in the salt. i love tying. i have now bought individual stuff that i run out of to go with my stock from ebay. clouser eyes, mylar tubing, and estaz rare
Don’t sweat a bad back cast on a big blow, it effects everybody! Next time you find yourself in this situation, just turn around and throw into the wind, then drop your fly on the back cast. While it doesn’t look pretty it’s effective besides the surf boys and off shore folks have been using this trick for years. The other thing that might help a little when you want to fish in a good stiff breeze, is to over line your rod or fish up and use a little heavier outfit than you would typically throw. While you may not need a 9 or 10 weight outift to fight the fish, it may be necessary to put the fly in front of the fish. The only other thing that I would play around with is to pick you up a good warm water shooting head system so you can get a little extra distance with a little better line management and delivery in a big blow. Just make sure that you ware long paints, long shirt, a good hat and some sun glasses when you practice or fish in the wind. Getting nailed with fly hook ain’t much fun nomatter when and where it happens. As for the weather, it seems like most of the time when I am at the coast and have the time to fish it is always blowing, but you know what they say…it still beats working!
if the wind is at your face, a higher backcast will drive the loop tighter forward and down,and breakthrough an oncoming wind. if the wind is at your back strong, a low backcast will allow you to punch the loop through behind you. Basically remember tighter, lower loops will always cheat the wind better. I agree about overlining, but if you underline one even 2 weights, you will be forced to throw an extremely tight loop that will actually do better in the wind (although you cant shoot as much line than w/ a heavier head wt, the benifits of accuraccy will make up for it since the wind will carrier a denser line off traj. )
