quote:
Originally posted by Top2Bottom1LOL Lynn!
If it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing right!
Russ B.
God is great, Beer is good, People are crazy
That’s the way I see it. 
5200 is what I would use…but I usually don’t change motors too often.
“Miss Amanda”
-KeyWest
-Bluewater 2020CC
-Yammy F-150God is GOOD!! ALL the time!!</font id=“blue”>
It is obviuos I’m out voted here and allow me to clarify. While 5200 is an excellent product, the package clearly states it is permanent (yes it will come apart with moderate damage to the hull). A good quality white silicone sealer/adhesive will do a great job of waterproofing thru hull connectors/hardware ABOVE the water line. I have done several,(3 on the previous boat)but not as many as some, engine swaps and it sure was a breeze dealing with silicone rather that 5200. IMO save the permanent stuff for below the water line. Incidently, no evidence of rot or water intrusion found when the engines were removed. This is just my opninion and experience, thanks.
GW 232GT Gulfstream
150Yam x 2
“3rd Day”
Gen. Chap.1 Vs.9-13
bottom mounting bolts are below the waterline on most motors
I’m now at www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
5200 is fine if you want to do gel coat and maybe even glass repair when you do have to remove a motor for a repair. It will not let go of what it is stuck to. It will pull material with it.
Boat Life is really good and works great. I have had motors hang on boats before with only silicone. It will seal just fine if you clean the suface well.
5200 is great stuff as long as you do not plan on ever taking it apart again. If you do, it will damage stuff.
Never had 5200 pull off gel coat or fiberglass when removing a motor or something else. Putty knives are great things.
Russ B.
God is great, Beer is good, People are crazy
Like Russ said. PUtty knife, adhesive remover, elbow grease and persistence. Maybe some fine bronze wool once you get down to the little bits.
if you put enough 5200 on a transom when rigging a motor, that you do gelcoat damage 10 years later, something is very wrong.
apply 5200 to both sides of the hole while the bolt is in hole, and being rotated.
tighten bolts.
I did however have to remove a transom bracket that had been installed with 5200, and it damaged the gelcoat.
I’m now at www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
i saw a guy pull a bracket off teh back of a boat that had 5200 holding it on, they couldn’t get it to break loose, ended up hooking a wrecker to the bracket and pulled till it gave. Took half teh skin on the transom with it. %200 applied properlly, is considerd a permament adhesive. I usually use life caulk or 4200.
I now plan on just gooping 5200 on the bolts and pushing them through and bedding in the large washers on both sides with 5200 and tightening the 4 bolts. Thanks for all the replies.
Rick
Well, I did it myself and I am pleased so far. I started late Friday afternoon, myself and my 16 year old son hung both motors with the engine hoist, 5200ed them in and snaked and plugged in the wire harness for both motors, doing a neat job with zip ties all the way. battery cables, fuel line, shift and throttle cables hooked up and adjusted. Put batteries to them and they busted right off and ran beautifully. I know there are always little things to work out when doing this and I have one too. The tach on the port motor pegs out when you turn that key on. The motor cranks and runs fine and then the tach stays at 7000 while the motor is idling smoothly. The tach plugs into a harness so not alot of room for error. Any ideas what it could be? The tach worked fine on the boat I bought the motors from. I got his gauges with the deal. Tach wire is yellow on 1996 Suzuki 140s Any suggestions?
Rick