I never even took the battery connections off. I fired it up before I started trouble shooting yesterday afternoon and it was fine. Going to check all of the connections and cables and check for voltage drop through the positive and negative circuit as well. Also going to give everything a good Corrosion Block spray down.
“I’m not in this world to live up to your expectations,neither are you here to live up to mine” Peter Tosh - I Am That I Am
Long shot… but…
A long time ago, back before your average 18’ tri-hull with a Johnson 135 had a battery switch, we had a Marqui bow rider that did what you describe. Great stable ski boat that made plenty of speed for bare footing and tumble turns, etc.
It would slow spin for a rotation or two or three, then suddenly spin fast and start. Then, sometimes, it would slow spin until it killed the battery. We pull started it quite a few times. You gotta really want to do some water skiing if you’re gonna pull start an old (new at the time), carb’d OMC 135. And, you had to have a strong young back. Anyway… We pulled the cables lose and did a crappy job of cleaning them several times. Got it going. Hit the skis.
Finally, slow spin again. Then, nothing… at all. Nada. Zip.
Pulled the battery box out and opened it to find the negative terminal of the battery smoking and melted off of the battery. Lucky we did not have a fire.
In hind sight, I think the intermittent nature of the problem was caused by the high resistance connection getting pretty hot and “fixing” itself. I think it was toasting the corrosion and heat cycling things to extreme enough temps that it would find a connection. Maybe even melt a little causing things to shift allowing a connection. That would cause her to go from slow spin to fast spin and start.
All that to say, I still think you have bad connection(s). If it were my boat, I’d pull each and every connection lose, one by one, clean both ends to bright metal, coat with corrosion inhibitor, and re-attach.
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
quote:
Originally posted by leadenwahboyquote:
Originally posted by LowcountryboyFinally got my hands on a multi-meter and the ISO diagrams so I can get to the starter (connections are kind of buried on the motor). Going to try Chris V’s suggestion and go from there.
Chris, should I jump directly to the starter, or the solenoid?
“I’m not in this world to live up to your expectations,neither are you here to live up to mine” Peter Tosh - I Am That I Am
If I’m understanding correctly, he’s suggesting you use the jumper cables to bypass the motor wiring. So wherever the positive hooks to the motor, hook the positive cable there and same for the ground. </font id=“red”>
Basically supply the motor with power through some known good wiring to eliminate your wiring.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
exactly
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Could not get a tight enough connection with the jumper cables, but put the battery on the outboard leads at the transom and it spun much better. Pulled everything off and cleaned all of the connections and it fires off great. I do have about 1.5 volts of drop at the battery to be motor when I turn the starter, which seems high. Gonna let it sit overnight and see how it does in the morning. Hopefully the issue was the cables, but we will see. Thanks for all of the help!
“I’m not in this world to live up to your expectations,neither are you here to live up to mine” Peter Tosh - I Am That I Am
Same issue, different day. Slow start back in full force.
“I’m not in this world to live up to your expectations,neither are you here to live up to mine” Peter Tosh - I Am That I Am
same response different day
use a set of jumper cables
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what is battery voltage versus starter voltage under load?
we typically see 12.4± a bit at the battery, and 11-12 under load, so a 1.5 volt drop will its spinning isnt unusual
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quote:
Originally posted by chris Vwhat is battery voltage versus starter voltage under load?
we typically see 12.4± a bit at the battery, and 11-12 under load, so a 1.5 volt drop will its spinning isnt unusualwww.teamcharlestonmarine.com
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I tried using regular jumper cables but I could not get the motor to spin at all (I am guessing the alligator clamps would not hold tight on the bolts because the bolts are so small). I guess I can create a set of cables with ring terminals to try and get a good connection.
Unless I am reading the diagram wrong, the starter connects on the back side of the terminal (1), so voltage drop at the terminal should be voltage drop at the starter. Yamaha makes it really hard to get to any of the starter connections on this little motor. To me it looks like the entire bracket (18) has to come off to get to the starter, or am I missing an easier way to access it?
From what I remember voltage was about 12.5 at the battery and around 11.1 or 11.2 under load. I did take the battery and have it tested and it is good.
“I’m not in this world to live up to your expectations,neither are you here to live up to mine” Peter Tosh - I Am That I Am
adding the jumper cables to the system do not have the ability to make the motor not spin.
I must not of done an adequate job of describing what to do.
leave everything on the boat and motor the way it normally is set up.
batteries, battery cables, everything, leave it alone.
turn battery switch on and duplicate slow start.
ADD the jumper cables to the system.
attach them to the bolts labeled “29” in the above picture on the motor and directly to the battery on the other end.
try to start motor again and look for a weak start or a strong start.
If weak start still exists, you have a motor problem, if weak start goes away, you have a boat side problem.
you need good heavy duty jumper cables, $12 walmart cables arent going to do the job
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quote:
Originally posted by chris Vadding the jumper cables to the system do not have the ability to make the motor not spin.
I must not of done an adequate job of describing what to do.
leave everything on the boat and motor the way it normally is set up.
batteries, battery cables, everything, leave it alone.
turn battery switch on and duplicate slow start.
ADD the jumper cables to the system.
attach them to the bolts labeled “29” in the above picture on the motor and directly to the battery on the other end.
try to start motor again and look for a weak start or a strong start.
If weak start still exists, you have a motor problem, if weak start goes away, you have a boat side problem.you need good heavy duty jumper cables, $12 walmart cables arent going to do the job
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Thanks Chris, I follow you now. Basically, there will be two paths for the current to follow, so any bad wire in the harness would be bypassed.
“I’m not in this world to live up to your expectations,neither are you here to live up to mine” Peter Tosh - I Am That I Am
Just a heads up in regards to jumper cables, I have had several supervisors purchase brand new jumper cables and went to use them in order to jump mowers or trucks off with no avail over the last year. I arrived on scene and did the easiest way to check if they are good. Hook them up to a battery and click the opposite ends together. You get a spark then proceed with ChrisV method. No spark at the cables and your cables will not allow current to pass through rendering your troubleshooting process. Just passing this down so you down get hung up with a bad set of cables. I can’t make bad gas burn and electricity pass through bad connections, but I am currently working on fixing stupid. Good luck
“If you can’t fix a woman, chase some tail with fins and fur!!!”
2008 Sea Pro 1900cc w/115
(2) Daughters that make the boys cry
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Thanks, got a heavy duty set last night and will see if they help.
“I’m not in this world to live up to your expectations,neither are you here to live up to mine” Peter Tosh - I Am That I Am
Jumped across per Chris’ recommendations. Still doing the slow turn over. I am guessing it is something on the motor side.
“I’m not in this world to live up to your expectations,neither are you here to live up to mine” Peter Tosh - I Am That I Am
Final results:
Got to the end of my meager troubleshooting abilities and had a pro look at it. He couldn’t get it turn over at all, and the flywheel wouldn’t turn even with a wrench on it, so he dropped the foot. Motor spun no problem. A bearing/seal in the midsection had seized up on the drive shaft. Plastic sleeve melted, good old mess. He was saying this probably caused my issue with dropping lower unit this spring as well.
http://old.charlestonfishing.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=181481
Anyway, I just picked it up, everything works fine now, turns right over.
“I’m not in this world to live up to your expectations,neither are you here to live up to mine” Peter Tosh - I Am That I Am
i didnt see that coming
Proline 201WA
Aloha 24ft pontoon (LooneyToon)
Old Town stern with 7.5 johnson
we see it happen a few times a year where the gear case causes this kind of issue, but its not very common, and this is one of those times where seeing and more importantly, hearing a motor is invaluable.
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