That Sinking Feeling!

I promise that I or Joe will post when he has the cause.

“Back home we got a taxidermy man. He gonna have a heart attack when he see what I brung him”

Glad yall made it in OK. 2 summers ago my cousin spent a few days on the big pond. REEL HIGH, those boys were glad to see the cg-chopper on day #3. It was hel! on the family, not knowing what went wrong out there. Gives you a new appreciation for things. They lost all power. Now they carry solar panels.

QUACK, - BOOM, - SPLASH

1984 14’ alumacraft
2004 yamaha 25

I think, in nearly 500 posts on this site, I’ve "bump"ed maybe twice. So, yes, stupid question.

Interesting, Put my boat in the water for the first time in 5 or 6 months to do a shakedown for the start of tuna season shortly. Only had the boat in for about 3 - 4 hours and the bilge had about 8 inches of water in it, usually its bone dry.

Come to find out the brass thru hull fitting and sea cock was split right down the middle for the fish box drains. Not sure how that happened but it did.

Working on fixing it right now, it’s in a place where there is tons of room to work, UHG… NOT. Can’t even fit a big enough pipe wrench in there.

Glad that everyone made it home safe.

Nothing like checking to make sure you have all the appropriatte safety devices on board. On the water is not the time to be thinking or looking for something. An early comment on the money we spend on boats and gear to spend a little on safety gear. But you cannot put a price on someones life let alone a friend life.

Again glad to hear everyone made it home safe and if anything you have pointed out about having all safety gear on board to include ensuring you have a woring radio and that you know how to use it. I try and radio check someone like seatow everytime i go out. If i can’t get a hold of them i will radio check the USCG.

Everyone be safe

Sounds like a split hose. Either the livewell or the scupper drains. The faster you went the more pressure on the hose. Check the hose between the scupper drains and the over board thru hulls.

www.HiltonHeadBoatingCenter.com

Plastic thru-hulls and that flimsy 1-1/8" hose should all be replaced with Stainless (above water) thru-hulls and the heavy duty “spiral” bilge hose! Minimum of 2 bilge pumps … I have 4 on the big boat + 1 brass manual pump and a hand pump … plus a 5-gallon bucket.

Good luck!

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Viva-Mahia and Mack-Attack I & II
Take a Fish boating!

Was that you they were talking about in the newspaper?

“To preserve liberty it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them.” – Senator Richard Henry Lee, 1788

Just keeping in the top priorities…

“It’s not easy being me…master of my own indignity…” The Commodore, From “Popeye”, The Movie

I guess it would be a good idea to keep some corks or stoppers that fit the thru-hulls so if the boat starts taking water, those inlets would be a good place to start plugging.


“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad

Equipment:
190cc Sea Pro w/130 Johnson
1- 13 year old
1 - 9 year old
1 - wife (The Warden)

ECFC / Talk Carolina/Clemson sports @ Palmetto State Rivals www.palmettostaterivals.com

you can get tapered wood plugs,we carry an assc. of sizes on my boat,also fiberglass filler(bonding)than can be applied in water.

islander

This cannot be relegated to the second page of topics until the cause has been identified and posted.

“It’s not easy being me…master of my own indignity…” The Commodore, From “Popeye”, The Movie

I guess sellsfish never got the pics I mailed to him…

The problem ended up being under the rub rail where the bow pulpit meets the rest of the hull. Seems to be a pretty simple repair, but I suggest anyone running a 10+ year old boat to do a quick check all around the rub rail.

These pictures were taken after I fully removed the factory sealant. The problem before was barely visible. The sealant looked ok, but when I stuck my car key into the cavity, the sealant just pushed away for about 18". Just enough of a crack to let enough water in to overcome the bilge pump while running into a head sea.

That’s a 1/2" gap once the factory sealant was removed. The hull is not a true deep-V, and the bow will bury in certain seas…that’s a lot of water that can come on in…

PS Why the he!! do they make the top skin fit over the bottom skin? It seems it would be a much better design to make the bottom skin the male part, and the top the female part. Do they still build boats like this?

Stories like these make me glad I fish in a Whaler

some builders use a reverse shoebox construction now.


http://www.pioneerownersclub.com

Thanks so much. I will be checking my '86 hull tomorrow.

“It’s not easy being me…master of my own indignity…” The Commodore, From “Popeye”, The Movie

Yea this is a poor fit. My boat has a lip that come down over the hull lip. It’s then screwed every couple inches and then a layer of fiberglass is placed over the connection on the inside. There should not be that much of a gap.

I will say when I worked at Wellcraft they used to take crowbars and force fit hulls to decks. That’s when gaps and problems like this occur years down the road when the sealant fails.