I am going to be replacing the floor and removing the waterlogged foam in a 92 High Tide Super V 14. I am a little leary of removing waterlogged foam and then putting in more foam to potentially trap water in the future. I wil be adding drainage for the bilge areas. (Not sure how yet), and probably replacing the floor and rebuilding rear seat and casting deck out of Coosa.
I have one side of the rubrails off and the port side cap (with foam removed) and there is a waterlogged strip of rotten wood approximately 1/2" x 1 that the rubrail screws bite into, fastening the upper cap and the hull together. This will have to be replaced also.
Once I get the floor and foam out, I will check stringers and transom and go from there.
*****Has anyone done any floor / foam / possible stringers / possible transom replacements that are willing to offer any tips?
******Is it necessary to replace the waterlogged foam with new foam (that also has the potential for trapping water? I do believe that this boat hull benefits some from the structural integrity of foam, otherwise I would not consider putting it back in.
Any ■■■■■■■■ is welcome. I have a long way to go with this one.
thats exactly why i sold my high tide. Great little boat, but a rotten little b i t c h.
Sent you an email…
Pursuitgang
2486 Triton (RealTime)
1720 KeyWest 90 Johnson
quote:
*****Has anyone done any floor / foam / possible stringers / possible transom replacements that are willing to offer any tips?
Yep, I’ve done a lot of them. I’ll try to answer any questions you have. The first tip I can give you is make sure the boat justifies the repair. A major repair like that may well cost more than the boat is worth after repairing, so be sure the juice is worth the squeeze.
quote:
Is it necessary to replace the waterlogged foam with new foam (that also has the potential for trapping water? I do believe that this boat hull benefits some from the structural integrity of foam, otherwise I would not consider putting it back in.
Yes, for a couple of reasons. USCG requires that all boats under 20’ have enough foam for level, upright flotation. Many cheaper hulls rely on the foam to give some hull strength and stiffness also, so in some cases it is structural. Plus it’s just good sense for the boat to float when swamped.
The old foam used in boats was an open cell variety that really absorbed water, but the newer marine foams are closed cell and they won’t have that problem in the future like the old stuff did.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
Maybe there is something out there other than foam. Ive seen people use anything from water bottles to ping pong balls. Sounds stupid, but I bet it works.
kms
If you decide to go with foam call Merton’s ( they have a web site). I just ordered foam and gellcoat from them and they were a big help. Answered all of my questions and hooked me up with exactly what I needed. Good prices too.