Can’t get one motor running…we picked up a slug of water from the tank and ended up getting towed. Cleaned out the tank, got 5 gal of water out and the white gunk out of it. Changed out the water separators, cleaned out the inline filters on top of the tank, and flushed all lines. Neither motor ran. Changed the mystery filters in the HP pump(didn’t look dirt), checked the injector filters(clean), cleaned out the VST tank and changed out the electric fuel pump. After all that, one runs like a top now. Now the other motor…flushed the lines, changed filters, changed out the electric pump in the VST, but can’t hear that one running after assembly. Checked voltage to the pump and not getting a good reading(like .5V). Checked the fuses, all good. Does anyone know how to check the fuel pump relay? We even pulled the hose to the filter canister going to the HP pump and cranked it over. That line was dry and nothing came out. We did pull the plug on the VST tank and it was full of gas. Seems like the electric pump isn’t working, tho new, or the relay not sending volts to it. Figured the next test would be to pull the pump and bench test it with 12v. Any help would be great. Thanks
Key West 196;150 Yammie
Life Is Good…Gotta Love It!!!
PUMP DEFINATELY NEEDS 12 VOLTS
I BELIEVE PUMP ONLY RUNS FOR ABOUT 5 SECONDS WITH THE KEY ON
THEN IT LOOKS FOR A SIGNAL THAT THE FLYWHEEL IS TURNING OR IT WILL SHUT OFF
UN PLUG 2 PIN CONNECTOR GOING INTO PUMP AND TEST FOR VOLTAGE WHILE SOMEONE IS SPINNING THE KEY OVER
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Yeah Chris, like you said, on the other motor I can hear it whine for a few seconds when we first turn the key. This one is not doing anything. This thing has so many sensors on it not sure exactly where to go from here. We were checking voltage on the top of the tank where the wires connect. I’ll try it with the pump pulled. I Figured we’d just check what we haven’t checked yet too. Such as…the water detector on the bottom of the filter bowl, maybe swap the main relay out from the other motor and try it on that one, and take the pump back out and bench test it with 12v.
That after-market pump we got doesn’t have a connector clip to make sure it doesn’t fall off like the original. Don’t like that, but oh well. I really don’t like how that pump just sits in there with nothing holding it up to the discharge port other than the lip on the vst tank where the strainer sits. Yammy could have done a lot better on that design! If all that fails I’ll let you know. So what would kill the voltage other than the fuse, or relay? Thanks Man
Key West 196;150 Yammie
Life Is Good…Gotta Love It!!!
Check the key switch also. We had a Honda this week that was doing the same thing. It was a corroded wire at the switch.
Tall Sail Marine
Okay, we found we do have 12+v to the pump. The problem is in the blue wire that goes to ground. Whatever interrupts the circuit on the wire is not working right. Probably the fuel pressure sensor, I guess. I could run a jumper from the blue wire post on top of vst, the pump would run, and the motor ran fine. Took the jumper off and the motor would start sputtering after a minute or so. Now just have to figure out how to get that circuit to complete to ground like its supposed to.
Key West 196;150 Yammie
Life Is Good…Gotta Love It!!!
COMPUTER CONTROLS THE GROUND
YAMAHA IS FOND OF SWITCHING THE GROUND INSTEAD OF SWITCHING THE HOT WIRE
SWAP THE ECM FROM THE OTHER MOTOR AND SEE IF THAT FIXES TEH PROBLEM
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Thanks Chris, we’ll give it a try. I’m assuming…if it does not fix the problem, there is a bad signal from one of the sensors. If it does fix it, it’s the ECM itself. Is that correct?
Key West 196;150 Yammie
Life Is Good…Gotta Love It!!!
YEP
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Bwulmer, were you able to determine what your problem was? I am a HPDI owner as well and do as much of my own maintenance/troubleshooting as I can. Was curious what you found to be your issue, just for informational purposes.
No, haven’t figured it out yet. We are waiting on an o-ring for one of the nipples going from the extreme HP pump head to the pump body before we can put it all back together and try it (it’s an odd size metric o-ring we had to get it from an o-ring store on the west coast). That’s where the mystery filter for the fuel inlet of the pump is located behind that head. We decided to go ahead and change it out even though it looked fairly clean. Of course, one of the o-rings broke going back together. Hoping to get back on it today. The ECM tested good, so just hoping maybe the fuel pressure sensor(it’s in that pump head) had some trash in it. I’ll keep you informed.
Ought to be able to go thru this fuel system blindfolded after this adventure!!
Key West 196;150 Yammie
Life Is Good…Gotta Love It!!!
With relation to the o-ring, did you have a visible leak from the one that broke or noticed/felt it break during reassembly? I replaced all the mystery filters recently as well, to include the ones on the fuel injectors. Had a primer bulb take a dump and of course it is down stream of my water/fuel separator. Ended up replacing all the other filters on the motor along with the LP pumps first. Motor still would not run but for a few seconds to a min and then stall. So did the mystery filters and that seems to have resolved it. The 2 filters on the pump were very dirty but the injector filters were clean. Replaced them all anyway.
quote:
Originally posted by ducks4gis
With relation to the o-ring, did you have a visible leak from the one that broke or noticed/felt it break during reassembly? I replaced all the mystery filters recently as well, to include the ones on the fuel injectors. Had a primer bulb take a dump and of course it is down stream of my water/fuel separator. Ended up replacing all the other filters on the motor along with the LP pumps first. Motor still would not run but for a few seconds to a min and then stall. So did the mystery filters and that seems to have resolved it. The 2 filters on the pump were very dirty but the injector filters were clean. Replaced them all anyway.
Well we got that sucker running, finally! No, that o-ring broke on the install. I’m thinking the fuel pressure sensor fouled b/c after pulling the HP pump head off and cleaning everything out including the center rail that seemed to do the trick. That electric pump is supposed to run for 5 seconds when you turn on the key, then cut off if the flywheel is not turning, but for some reason, the one on this motor is still not doing it. The other motor does. I used that jumper wire(post for blue wire on electric pump to ground)to run it a few second for priming then cranked it up. After it cranked it seemed to do fine, even with the jumper off, so I guess once the flywheel started turning the pump cut in. Might still be a bad flywheel turning sensor causing that, I don’t know. I tell you…these motors are sensitive to a little bit of trash in those mystery filters. We’re going to run the boat in the river today and see how she does. Yesterday was the first time we had both motors running good since the water slug went through it a month or so ago, so hopefully all is good. I suggested we bring some extra drinks and snacks in case it turns out