The stream on my F150 had become, IMO, and it had been over three years so I replaced the water pump this past weekend. When I put the muffs on in the driveway for a test it took what I would consider longer to start peeing than it should and the stream was no stronger than before I replaced the pump. I made sure nothing was in the hose and it’s clear. Pulled the hose off the block outtake and water coming out of the block is weak? It’s also not a consistent steady stream, it’s like it’s “sputtering”, any thoughts what might be blocked or causing issues?
I’ve had a lot of trouble with dirt daubers climbing up the tube and building mud nests, they even get into the thermostat housing sometimes.
Capt. Larry Teuton
912-six55-5674
lteuton at aol dot com
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
I will start out by saying I am not a Yamaha mechanic, but I have an 08 F150, I would suppose yours is the same configuration as mine. It can be a challenge to run those motors on a set of muffs. The reason for this is a set of holes in the lower unit in front of the water inlet screens. I have found putting a piece of duct tape over the front holes will let the water pump pick up the water from the muffs a lot better. Just remember to remove the tape before launching the boat.
Hope this is the problem
ZX
One of my 05’s is the same way. Guy that put new water pumps in said the thermostat could be sticking. I may need to check into that.
If you have the 2 water inlets below the cavitation plate, like tanksqt said, you have to close off/tape over the bottom water inlets. Best tape is the silver HVAC tape. Makes sure the tape is smooth without any wrinkles (to leak water out). Do NOT tape over the upper most water inlets below the cavitation plate. The muffs go on the upper water inlets. The engine should be run in the DOWN position, not the tilt position on the muffs. Motor should not be run over 2000 RPM MAX.
If stream still the same, run some Salt-X from a bucket thru the rinse fitting via a sump pump with the engine OFF. Let sit for a day. Then re-try the engine ON on the muffs.
Question: is the same stream happening when idling at the dock in water?
Fishing the beaches, Bays & Ocean of Wildwood/Cape May, NJ
Soon a resident of Georgetown, SC
It was weak at the dock and on the muffs. I haven’t had the opportunity to test the new pump yet in the water, just on the muffs.
I don’t trust the pee stream when using muffs , know from experience
that using muffs with hose pressure can give impression that alls
well in hooterville when the actual water pump isn’t working at
all!!!
[http://www.militaryappreciationday.org
When you see “Old Glory” waving in the breeze, know that it is the dying breaths of our fallen hero’s that makes it wave.
author unknown
If it is doable,get a plastic drum or a trash can and put the foot of the motor in there and run it,see if it changes.Just be sure to have the water hose handy to fill the drum/trash can as the motor will pull the water out and the level in the can will get low.
Double D.
X2 double d ; The only way to go!!! I’m lucky enough to have inherited a plastic pasture watering trough, works great!!!
[http://www.militaryappreciationday.org
When you see “Old Glory” waving in the breeze, know that it is the dying breaths of our fallen hero’s that makes it wave.
author unknown
Don’t know how old your motor is but it could have a build-up in the cooling system and a cleaning could help with the problem.
I was skeptical of this but I tried it in an old OMC V4 looper and I was pretty impressed with the results. Motor ran pretty solid but the cooling system wasn’t quite as enthusiastic as I was hoping for. So before I changed the water pump and t-stats I gave this a try.
Get a barrel and 5 gallons of white vinegar. Dump all the vinegar in the barrel, top it off with water, and run your motor in it. I let mine get up to temp and kept it going for about 15 minutes. Keep an eye on the temp of the water in the barrel because the exhaust can warm it up and your motor will get warm as well. Shut it down, let everything cool off, come back in a few hours and run the motor again. I did it 5-6 times over the course of the day.
When you’re done, drain the vinegar out of the barrel, fill it back up with fresh water, and flush the motor with one last run.
When I was done the bottom of my barrel had a considerable layer of salt and minerals that had all flushed out of the motor. The motor had a much better cooling water flow and the heads were running about 10 degrees cooler than when I started. When I changed the t-stats they were surprisingly clean from the treatment and the water pump showed no negative effects from the process.
The process is in no way a “miracle cure” and it won’t fix a mechanical problem but it did sure clean a lot of crap out of that old motor and it’s been running great ever since. It’s cheap and it seems to work.