PSA’s stuff is “average.” Their PTAC and “freedom” lines are junk comparatively speaking. Their “premium” parts are what you could place on the same shelf as Bushy, S&W, DPMS, etc.
As Geronimo said, “heads and shoulders” is a giant stretch. He’s also correct about them being about all the same.
From a very lengthy discussion on an AR15 only forum…
Only problem with an entry level rifle like that is that you will want to upgrade it. That means you’re paying for parts that you’re going to take off and put in a drawer somewhere…
If you’re going to get the AR build bug, that is inevitable. Besides, not every “entry level rifle” is built the same. To lump them all into one pile is doing yourself a huge disservice.
Entry level rifles are perfect for people uncertain as to the depth they want to go, if at all, into the AR market. A base model PSA is heads and shoulders above an entry level Bushmaster, DPMS, Wyndham, S&W M&P-15…and it costs less to get into…and it’s locally produced.
Earn it everyday
If there must be trouble, let it be in my day, that my child may have peace.
Never shoot a large caliber man with a small caliber bullet.
I would love to see some objective evidence saying a PSA rifle is anywhere close to a Bushy or DPMS, hell even the M&P15.
Also, be careful how you throw around “locally produced,” lots of their parts are farmed out to the cheapest bidder…
You sound very confident in your argument, which would lead me to believe you have put tens of thousands of rounds through each of these? Or seen some torture testing?
You’re right, he didn’t ask for anyone to proclaim their expertise…which is what you did. You make a claim to someone who doesn’t know any better and when called out you blame me? Come on man.
As far as “what I know…” I’m a dealer for PSA, and have been in the gun industry for about 4 years now. And unlike you, I do scour books and internet for information. This also makes me think before I give someone information.
As far as PSA parts, there are 3 PSA based rifles in my safe. But they aren’t a $499 rifle either. As I said above, and as you said here, there are different levels. Instead of having to come back and defend yourself, maybe take the time to spread correct information THE FIRST TIME…that is my only point.
And the “poking” using your sarcastic name-calling and assumptions is very sophomoric. Just take your lumps and move on.
My one disagreement with what’s been said, 300 blackout is not for longer range. Its big advantage is shooting suppressed from what I understand. If you want to shoot a 30 cal projectile long range, then don’t shoot a 308 bullet from a modified 5.56 casing. Step it up to an AR10 and shoot a 308.
I read your reply and thought, “That’s what I said.”
brain fart! corrected now to read “close range”
blackout’s the name because of the low flash- yep.
After the last few dealings with Buds, I won’t be buying anything else from them. Most of your LGS will get close when you factor in the transfer fee on the gun, maybe 10-20 dollars difference. Buds use to be good but their customer service and shipping has gone to **** the last two years.
Mark
Pioneer 222 Sportfish Yamaha F300
Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn’t go so far as to call a dog filthy but they’re definitely dirty. But, a dog’s got personality. Personality goes a long way.
“Life’s tough…It’s even tougher if you’re stupid” John Wayne
After the last few dealings with Buds, I won’t be buying anything else from them. Most of your LGS will get close when you factor in the transfer fee on the gun, maybe 10-20 dollars difference. Buds use to be good but their customer service and shipping has gone to **** the last two years.
Mark
Pioneer 222 Sportfish Yamaha F300
Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn’t go so far as to call a dog filthy but they’re definitely dirty. But, a dog’s got personality. Personality goes a long way.
“Life’s tough…It’s even tougher if you’re stupid” John Wayne
I do a lot of transfers of stuff bought through Buds. I don’t see the shipping issues you speak of, ever really. I did have to send back an over/under that was damaged, but it was done so before shipping. Customer service was great, albeit slow.
Bart, if you need help, from someone in the industry, and a safe full of AR’s, gimme a shout. Glad to help, glad to assist in your BUILD if you want to go that route, and glad to assist any FFL needs you may have.
I see some good advice on here, and some that is questionable.
First question about choosing an AR is what is the intended purpose of the rifle.
Second question is budget.
After that, it’s easy.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
If you’re open to giving advice to others, I plan on buying sometime after January, I may throw a few questions your way when I’m ready.
I’m glad to help where I can. I don’t pretend to know it all, but I’ll give you my experiences and what I’ve learned along the way to keep you from making the same mistakes.
Just the barrel blanks are. Just like a lot of other companies. They still do all the machining at PSA and assembly. It all comes down to parts used, testing and QC that separates a LMT or Noveske, from a PSA. Ruger, Colt, S&W, etc. handle forging their own barrels.
You should ask PSA Mt Pleasant when their next lower build calls is. It’s a hands-on class and I believe anyone attending the class gets 10% off of any purchase they make in the store while attending the class.
In the future, where every stranger poses a potential threat, knowing the predator mindset is the only safe haven.
YouTube has some good videos on it. That’s how I built my first one.
I strongly advise you to invest in some brass punches, or at least a small brass hammer to finish off some of those pins. You don’t really need the vise clamps that hold the lower so you wont scratch it up, but if you need to clamp it in a vise, use plenty of rags to keep from scratching the upper. Also don’t be afraid to scratch it, you can paint it flat black afterwards and nobody will ever be able to tell the difference.
