Attic insulation advice?

Got a question regarding the most cost-efficient way of insulating my attic. The house is a 1968 brick ranch in North Chuck, 1500sf.

I’m a capable DIY’er so I will be doing this myself, I’m willing to do rolled, batt, or blown insulation. The house currently has some blown cellulose, but it’s not much and it’s old stuff. I have no idea the R value, but I can’t imagine it being much. It’s blown up to near the top edge of the ceiling joists. I’m wanting to bring the attic to at least an R30 rating, trying to do this as cost-efficient as I can.

The only place I know where to get insulation is the big-box places like Lowes, or Nope-depot. Is there a better source for it locally? Which do you suggest— blown, roll, batt? Kraft faced, or not?

I’m not convinced that radiant barriers are a good return on investment. I know they help, but everything that seems credible out there seems to indicate that it takes nearly a decade to recoup the costs ($400-900 for my house, doing it myself, depending on the supplier).

After getting our first full month electric bill $400, with an old HVAC unit, I basically soiled myself. Well anyhow, I know the HVAC needs replacing, but I’m not so sure that it’s inefficiency of the unit that’s killing me. I WILL be doing other things— caulking the old windows and general exterior, planning for replacing the old windows, perhaps insulating between the joists in the crawlspace.

Will also be installing a solar-powered attic fan.

At 5.5" and old blown insulation you probably are in the neighborhood of R12-15, doubtful you have 19 any longer. Anything over R38 in our climate is wasted money. Encapsulation with foam will give the best results but it is expensive and isn’t feasible for your circumstances. Blown will be your cheapest option but is a hassle if you haven’t done it before. You’re actually better off to pay someone if you go that route. I’d run two layer of R19 batt, unfaced. Easy to do and not as messy.

Capitol Materials, Tucker, CK Supply, ABC Supply or any drywall and roofing supplier will probably match a box store, help you get everything you need to do it right and deliver it to you.

Your old windows are probably costing you as much as the roof. Caulking will help for draft stopping but uninsulated glass is a terrible thermal barrier. Replacement windows may actually be a decent return on your investment. Weatherstrip your doors too.

Mark
Pioneer 222 Sportfish Yamaha F300
Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn’t go so far as to call a dog filthy but they’re definitely dirty. But, a dog’s got personality. Personality goes a long way.

“Life’s tough…It’s even tougher if you’re stupid” John Wayne

Call SCE&G they have folks on the payroll who will come to your home and do a complete survey with recommendation on how to save energy.

People will forget what you said…
People will forget what you did…
But people will never forget how you made them feel.

energy guy here, yes, call SCE&G and request a home energy audit, they will bring some free stuff and give you a full report

I gave them their basic training so I know that are talented :smiley:

request Chris if you can

quickest payback is the ceiling insulation, Saltys advice is solid

radiant barriers are questionable, some of them are a problem

the old HVAC unit is killing you, a new one will reduce the HVAC part of your bill probably 50%

if you have a follow up question after the audit, post it here and I can give you some specific advice

Pioneer 197SF

Is this SCE&G audit free? Sounds like a fantastic idea.

I have a similar house 60’s brick ranch 1800sqft.
Went to the big box store, picked up rolls of r30 unfaced.
Unfaced is important.
Rolled it perpendicular to the ceiling joists.
I now have a very pretty pink attic.

I also built a cat walk above the insulation so you can access the whole attic without walking on the insulation. Keeps things working correctly.

Or you can run 2 layers of lower r-value. Once with the joists, and one perpendicular to the joists. Either way anything is better than whats up there now.

If you blow it in, make sure you keep the soffits clean. You need them open for ventilation. I figured it was easier to roll pink than cleanup after my blow job.

that’s what she said

quote:
Originally posted by friogatto

I have a similar house 60’s brick ranch 1800sqft.
Went to the big box store, picked up rolls of r30 unfaced.
Unfaced is important.
Rolled it perpendicular to the ceiling joists.
I now have a very pretty pink attic.

I also built a cat walk above the insulation so you can access the whole attic without walking on the insulation. Keeps things working correctly.

Or you can run 2 layers of lower r-value. Once with the joists, and one perpendicular to the joists. Either way anything is better than whats up there now.

If you blow it in, make sure you keep the soffits clean. You need them open for ventilation. I figured it was easier to roll pink than cleanup after my blow job.


Did you read this before you posted it?[:0]:smiley: If so, well done.

Mark
Pioneer 222 Sportfish Yamaha F300
Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn’t go so far as to call a dog filthy but they’re definitely dirty. But, a dog’s got personality. Personality goes a long way.

“Life’s tough…It’s even tougher if you’re stupid” John Wayne

quote:
Originally posted by friogatto

I have a similar house 60’s brick ranch 1800sqft.
Went to the big box store, picked up rolls of r30 unfaced.
Unfaced is important.
Rolled it perpendicular to the ceiling joists.
I now have a very pretty pink attic.

I also built a cat walk above the insulation so you can access the whole attic without walking on the insulation. Keeps things working correctly.

Or you can run 2 layers of lower r-value. Once with the joists, and one perpendicular to the joists. Either way anything is better than whats up there now.

If you blow it in, make sure you keep the soffits clean. You need them open for ventilation. I figured it was easier to roll pink than cleanup after my blow job.


LOL

Hey, this is a family site.

And yes, I do believe that SCE&G still does a free energy audit.

“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.

Well this turned out to be one of the greatest thread I’ve ever started lol!!

Saltydog, thanks for the advice, and that’s probably the route I will go then. My doors are already weatherstripped (did that a few weeks ago). I do have storm windows over the old single-pane glass, and I keep them down most of the time. Hopefully this buys me a little wiggle room, but we’ll see in winter.

Thanks for the suggestions about the SCEG audit, I’ll give them a call early next week. That would be very helpful.

… The Cross of Christ is the anvil upon which the hammer of evil wore itself out.

Here ya go, Matt;

https://www.sceg.com/■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■-up

NN

07, 23 Key West, Twin 115 Yammys

“Coastal Bound”

www.joinrfa.org/

Also check your duct work. Our house was built in 74’ and we were heating/cooling more under the house than inside. We paid approx. $2500 to have the old removed and new duct installed. I can give you our contact if you want it.

SeaPro 220CC

Dixie Craft-custom flats boat

I had similar electric bills in a house similar to what you described, even after replacing my HVAC system and windows. I did the blown in insulation myself and spent around $600 at Home Depot… My most expensive Elec bill this year was around $275, during the mild months, I am around $100 give or take… That $600 has already paid for itself and then some within a year.

A bad day fishing is much better than a good day at work.

Get a quote from Cohens on installing the insulation. It may surprise you.