I moved my house and starting batteries to the center console on my boat. I did this last year. The only issue is that the factory cables from the motor are about 5 feet to short for direct connection. Thus I had to run the motor cable to a bus bar under rear jump seats and then connect 2 new wires to the bus cables and run them to the center console.
This works but if my starting battery gets the slightest drain on it I am not getting enough amps back to the starter to turn it over. I assume due to the connections and that I am running so much cable. Anyone know where I can order longer cables so I can just run a straight wire from the motor to the battery? Thanks
I live in lexington but went by and idustrial welding supply place here and bought the cables that i needed. they cut them and put the terminals on for me at a very reasonable price. check with one of those places up there. hope this helps
If you can solder. 3/8 or 1/4 copper pipe coupling works just fine. Cover in liquid electrical tape or vinyl dip. I do this to extend battery cables on my equipment all the time.
-Albemarle 248xf “Chella”
-Dolphin 18BC Pro
-HT Bugbuster
If you can solder. 3/8 or 1/4 copper pipe coupling works just fine. Cover in liquid electrical tape or vinyl dip. I do this to extend battery cables on my equipment all the time.
-Albemarle 248xf “Chella”
-Dolphin 18BC Pro
-HT Bugbuster
quote: Anyone know where I can order longer cables so I can just run a straight wire from the motor to the battery? Thanks
Yes, www.genuinedealz.com will custom make any size cable and length with any size end fittings you need and heat shrink the ends. They do a beautiful job, all marine grade, reasonable price and you will have them in about 3 days.
Capt. Larry Teuton
912-six55-5674
lteuton at aol dot com
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
What kind of ends did you put on the new extension cables? Are they some type of crimp on, or something else? The jumper should work, it just sounds like it isn’t making a good connection.
Another point to consider is that when you increase the length of a cable, you increase the resistance and get more voltage drop. A cable that is large enough to carry the load at 6’ might not be at 12’, and the splices will add more resistance too. I wouldn’t put a splice in a battery cable myself.
The website I posted above has a wire sizing chart. You need to know the amps your starter draws and add about 20% to it for safety. Then measure the length. When measuring cable length for load capacity you have to count both the positive and negative wires. If it is 12 feet from the batteries to the engine, you calculate the wire size based on a 24’ cable, not 12’.
Capt. Larry Teuton
912-six55-5674
lteuton at aol dot com
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
A properly done splice does not add to the resistance of the cable.A bad splice or if the buss bar is not rated for the current will cause a voltage drop. Since the resistance of copper cable is low, for instance a #6 awg is 0.427 per 1000 ft,an additional 5 ft makes no difference.
For a two wire DC circuit, the formula is 24 X Length ( of one cable) X the Amperage divided by the size ( in circular mils). This will give you the voltage drop.
For example, a #2 awg , 6 feet long drawing 60 amps will drop .130 volts, at 12 feet .260 volts.
I would guess something between 60 and 100 amps when you turn the key to start it. I would measure it if it were mine. I build boats for a living and I don’t like to guess, I measure, or call Yamaha and ask them.
Notice in that wiring chart that spanishking posted above. 100 amps at 10’ needs a 4 gauge wire. 100 amps at 15’ requires a 2 gauge. And the distance is measured round trip, both positive and negative.
Capt. Larry Teuton
912-six55-5674
lteuton at aol dot com
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
Larry you are right I will be at the boat this weekend and will just test it. But let me get this right Larry. Let say the wire is 12’ one way. That mean a 12’ pos lead and a 12’ neg lead. So I want to use the total of 24 and if the amp are actually 100 that’s going to put me at 1 gauge wire. Pretty sure I am reading the chart right just want to make sure. Thanks guys
Thanks for posting Capt. Larry my next project is to move my batteries from the bilge to the center console ( not sure why mfg put them their)The genuine dealz will be perfect for making up the correct cables (Tinned copper)
Cracker, or anyone else in the know. I put the meter on the hot wire on starter where my battery cable connects and the other on the ground on the block where the neg battery wire connects. When I turn the motor over I am getting 59 amps. Does that seem right? Thought it would be closer to 100+. Maybe I am not testing at the right spot?
Geniunedealz is the bomb! I buy all my stuff from them. They are located in Brunswick Ga and I have ordered stuff from them and picked it up while working down there. Nice folks and great products/prices.
They are also bestboatwire.com and sometimes I have found that one or the other will be cheaper on certain things…
