Well, it has begun.
Yesterday the '94 was stripped to the hull. Next week the restoration begins! Now to get this darn cap off…ugh.
I’m open to color combination suggestions also, if anyone has any.
Cool project. Good luck with it
subscribed…
17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25
I can’t get the cap off…Gonna require some cutting in strategic areas to access some places where they are glassed together.
I don’t want to go sea foam or white or any light color on this one. I originally wanted to go like an OD green with a tan topside and everything powdercoated black…but I think it will be too hot? Anyone have experience with black powdercoat on a boat? I could wrap steering wheel with paracord and eliminate the heat problem, and the poling platform wouldn’t be touched much. Should I even worry about it?
I also would love some input on livewell suggestions. I have two areas in the stern that can be used as livewells. One has a through hull drain in the bottom, and one about halfway up the side, with provisions to pump raw water into it. The other has a hole on the side at the bottom, and on the side about halfway up the side, with provisions for raw water to be introduced.
I have the opportunity to make this thing the way it should be ideally. What is the ideal setup for intake and draining of raw water for a livewell? Or is a recirculation pump the better answer? My problem currently with the overflow drains in sides of wells/hull is that with me standing in the stern the overflow is underwater…which just fills the well and it flows from under the hatch into the boat. This could all be due to the extra weight from the wet foam, but I wont’ be able to confirm until after the boat is put back together and rigged…
Thanks for any input, this is going to be a very fun project to complete. No one has ever separated the cap from a Bentz-Craft flats boat, or attempted all of the little things I want to do to redesign it.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
(**(), tough crowd around here…
Started taking down the paint on the motor. Hope to have it in primer tomorrow at the latest. Haven’t found any bad spots in the casting(s) yet. I do have a couple of rusty nuts on the forward end of the steering bracket assembly.
Question: How concerned to I need to be with the Yamaha serial number label on the motor? It’s pretty bad, and peeling on one side.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Don’t be afraid to post a lot of pics, they might give others inspiration. I personally like the lighter colors on boats, but see a lot of sheriffs/sea-tow boats with the all black metal work but they have a lot so it stands out and gets a little gaudy, though I imagine this will be flats style so it won’t have to much metal on it and it will probably come out as sleek accents. Since your doing the redesign it means you probably have the skill to raise/relocate the overflow holes then you don’t have to worry about them being low with a extra heavy load. I had a little old boat for a while and when I cleaned up the motor from all the years of sitting in the salt, it nearly took off all the identifying numbers on the label also. You might could order another from Yamaha or custom fab one yourself. I’ve been stopped, by DNR/game warden/water police/coast guard and never had any of them do anything other then the regular check list inspections and they never checked to see if the serial numbers on the motor matched the registration(which they did), they usually just inspect the safety things like if the fire extinguisher is good or if the life jackets have rips, a working whistle, function flares. I think if they see that your name, registrations and titles check out you are usually good. I’m not sure of this boat but have heard of larger boats having issues arise from having the cap removed for redesign and not being braced properly when completed, but this was with cuddy cabs being configured to center consoles.
Looking good!
I know rigging will be easier when the boat isn’t together but the live well situation will depend on how it floats.
Could you move the drain up higher in the box if there is room?
I have fished on boats with drains in the side and the standpipes in the middle.
Both have advantages and disadvantages
Thanks for the replies. My thoughts on the drains boil down to one thing. How will they drain when sitting still and fishing? If a standpipe drains straight through the hull to the bottom, it can’t drain when sitting still. I think locating the overflows to nearly the very top of the tanks is best idea, and will be easiest.
Removing the cap to get to the foam is the priority now. It is wet for sure, and not accessible without cutting the boat apart or successfully separating the cap. The guys at Ulmer Boatworks who bought the molds have invited me to bring the boat and compare it to the molds and stringer grids to see if we can get a better idea of its construction under the floor. That should help immensely, and i could not be more gracious at their offer.
More to come! Time to start buying parts now. I plan to install provisions for trolling motor power in the future, and double batteries, dual bilge pumps, and some other things that I need to have here ready for rigging. Wire and connectors and distribution blocks and on and on and on! Very glad to be fortunate enough to take on the project, and I want to do the boat justice and not half-ass any of it.
Color combo suggestions are still the topic that needs discussed for me. I’m leaning towards black bottom and gray topside now and black accents. This is easily the hardest decision I’ve had to make in a while!
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Should be a Yamaha SN on the powerhead also
quote:
Originally posted by ReelescapeShould be a Yamaha SN on the powerhead also
Would that be good enough if ever needed and the one on the bracket was gone/illegible?
THanks
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
I need to purchase some wire for wiring this baby up when it’s all said and done.
Is 14AWG good enough for everything? Will 16AWG be too small?
Looking at ANCOR standard tinned Duplex wire:
http://smile.amazon.com/Ancor-121510-Electrical-Standard-14-Gauge/dp/B000NUYBW0/ref=sr_1_4?s=boating-water-sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1458566261&sr=1-4&keywords=marine+wire
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
14ga is plenty for most things, although I’d use 12ga for VHF, bilge pump and spot light.
Check out www.genuinedealz.com for wire and components.
Help with color? The famous Nat Herreshoff once said that the only proper colors for a boat are white and black, and only a dam fool would paint a boat black:smiley:
For your black bottom, consider using graphite powder mixed with epoxy. It will give a coal black finish and will be much tougher and more abrasion resistant than any paint.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Any wiring wizards on here want to wire this thing up for me? It’s my most dreaded task for the completion of this project…I HATE wiring!
Here’s a rough layout and design (read: 10 minute PAINT project, lol) of the components going into the boat…am I missing anything that needs power/wiring?
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
quote:
Originally posted by Cracker Larry14ga is plenty for most things, although I’d use 12ga for VHF, bilge pump and spot light.
Check out www.genuinedealz.com for wire and components.
Help with color? The famous Nat Herreshoff once said that the only proper colors for a boat are white and black, and only a dam fool would paint a boat black:smiley:
For your black bottom, consider using graphite powder mixed with epoxy. It will give a coal black finish and will be much tougher and more abrasion resistant than any paint.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper
Thanks for that link! The 250’ spool is $30 cheaper than on Amazon!
As far as color…I’m hardheaded and a glutton for maintenance punishment, so my dumb a$$ will probably go black! LOL
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Motor is in primer. Took the castings on the lower almost to the metal, and used a self-etching primer to start then two coats of hi-build. Will sand tomorrow and coat again. I guess I’ll leave it in primer until I decide on colors.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
I used Zinc primer with first two coats on sons motor then Evinrude Paint !! It looks great and we won’t have to worry about rust either 
!!
Well, got some help more knowledgeable than I yesterday, and we got the stern broken free and the bow broken free. Now only the stringer grid is holding the cap on…progress!
I also was afforded the opportunity to look at the molds of the cap and the stringer grid at Ulmer Boatworks. I learned a ton from John, and am very appreciative of the opportunity to swap stories and strategies. Can’t wait to get this thing done and set it side by side with a new one and get some good pics. Thanks again John.
And who would have ever thought there would be a brand new 15+ year old gas tank for my boat laying around the shop!
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Here’s a couple of suggestions on lights. On my current boat, the red and green nav lights are on the sides of the console. I also like to see them on either side of the bow. Both locations keep the front deck more clear. My previous boat had a single light mounted on the front deck and I can’t begin to tell you how many times I snagged it with a cast net, anchor rope, etc. Also, I assume that the circle on the rear deck labeled “Anchor” is your aft white nav light.
I wrapped white LED strip lights around the base of my console. Really lights up the entire floor area, use very little power, and are inexpensive. Tons of options on what you can do with these strip lights. I have them in my livewell and all my storage boxes. Anywhere that you think you MIGHT need light, put them in.
BTW - I also like the black & grey color combination. Just not sure how hot it will be.
While you’ve got it taken apart, do it like you want it. I would run wire through flexible conduit and leave a pull string in place for future wiring projects. Have fun with your project.
-The size of a fish is directly proportional to the time between when it’s lost and the story is told. - Me
-What’s the best eating fish, you ask? I’ve found that for a lot people, its the ones that they happen to be able to catch, clean, and cook. - My Dad
-Until you have loved a dog, part of your soul remains unawakened. Anatole France (paraphrased)
-RIP my “Puppy Dog” 10/15/2004 - 1/14/2013. I’ll never forget him. What a special friend he was.
-Team Gonna Fish
quote:
Originally posted by Bowhunter
Here’s a couple of suggestions on lights. On my current boat, the red and green nav lights are on the sides of the console. I also like to see them on either side of the bow. Both locations keep the front deck more clear. My previous boat had a single light mounted on the front deck and I can’t begin to tell you how many times I snagged it with a cast net, anchor rope, etc. Also, I assume that the circle on the rear deck labeled “Anchor” is your aft white nav light.
I wrapped white LED strip lights around the base of my console. Really lights up the entire floor area, use very little power, and are inexpensive. Tons of options on what you can do with these strip lights. I have them in my livewell and all my storage boxes. Anywhere that you think you MIGHT need light, put them in.
BTW - I also like the black & grey color combination. Just not sure how hot it will be.
Have fun with your project.
-The size of a fish is directly proportional to the time between when it’s lost and the story is told. - Me
-What’s the best eating fish, you ask? I’ve found that for a lot people, its the ones that they happen to be able to catch, clean, and cook. - My Dad
-Until you have loved a dog, part of your soul remains unawakened. Anatole France (paraphrased)
-RIP my “Puppy Dog” 10/15/2004 - 1/14/2013. I’ll never forget him. What a special friend he was.
-Team Gonna Fish
Thanks for the input! I appreciate the thoughts on NAV lights, but have that one covered. When I bought the boat it had one of those Accon flush mount flip-up nav light in the bow. I love it.
http://shop.acconmarine.com/products/33-stainless-steel-bow-light.aspx
The LED light strips are gonna b