Name and location! The rectangle ones for trailers over 80 inches… not the little square ones, and go!
Fishing Nerd
“you win some, you lose some…but nothing beats getting some!”
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-submersible-trailer-lights-61306.html
I use these… They usually get damaged before they quit working.
I believe they are usually $29.99 a pair in the store. The only downside is if you need to replace the wiring on your trailer, DO NOT use the wire they enclose in the package, it is extremely low grade and will fail rather quickly…
“Kleenex, The Official Sponsor of Fishb8”
Pit, how much of the wiring, just whet comes with the lights or the whole dam44 trailer:question:
Dry-launch. They sell them on ebay.
Whatever you get, coat the emerging wire bases with liquid tape, use heat shrink connectors and shrink tubing with adhesive, do NOT mount with the wires under stress, do NOT over-torque the mounting bolts … 
Etrailer.com found direct replacement led’s for mine a few years ago. Completely sealed units. No way to get water inside, and best prices with free shipping at the time.
'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki
quote:
Originally posted by EasyPit, how much of the wiring, just whet comes with the lights or the whole dam44 trailer:question:
They enclose a roll of wire to wire a trailer, This wire is crap. The wire coming out of the light is fine.
“Kleenex, The Official Sponsor of Fishb8”
x2 on etrailer. Recently ordered some parts from them and was very impressed with their service. I’ve also used Trailer Parts Depot online and found their prices to be pretty good. For the wiring, a tip I picked up from this site - use an extension cord to run your wiring to each light. A little more expensive but double insulated and very durable. And you can homerun the ground wire (with a 3 wire cord) versus grounding to the trailer surface, which usually corrodes. Heat shrink your connections(I like the 3M type available at WalMart) and then coat with liquid tape.
I put pipe-lights on my trailer. Thye attach to the top of my guideposts and never get wet. 7 years running and no issues.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
I just leave early, drive slow and use my flashers…Lights are overrated.
we know, 16…
and its 20’ wide, 15,000lbs, with no trailer brakes pulled by a rav-4
quote:
Originally posted by baracudawe know, 16…
and its 20’ wide, 15,000lbs, with no trailer brakes pulled by a rav-4
it’s no secret!
Thanks for the replies fellas, looking into etrailer.com
I also used to run my lights on the poles on my little boat but it doesn’t quite fit the bill in my big one so I just want to replace them with good quality submersible lights, thanks again guys!
Fishing Nerd
“you win some, you lose some…but nothing beats getting some!”
I bought a brat,jus saying.
quote:
Originally posted by DFreedomI put pipe-lights on my trailer. Thye attach to the top of my guideposts and never get wet. 7 years running and no issues.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
yep
don’t have to worry about being waterproof if they don’t get wet
drylaunch
They have a place inside the light where you connect the wire so the connection never gets wet.
Dielectric grease helps too.
I have the SP-RP Pair Kit with High & Dry Terminals.
I tried LED’s, they fail just as fast. Water always gets in so I gave up and switched to Drylaunch. 3 seasons and no problems.
American Made too.
Their website is kinda funny.
“Here’s The Real Thing
American Tooled and Manufactured
Not Chinese Look A Likes”
The lights do look a little retro but I cant see them from the drivers seat.
Not affiliated, just a happy customer.
Ditto for Dry Launch.
Avail Eastern Marine in Delaware. No sales tax.
Fishing the beaches, Bays & Ocean of Wildwood/Cape May, NJ
Soon a resident of Georgetown, SC
quote:
Originally posted by DFreedomI put pipe-lights on my trailer. Thye attach to the top of my guideposts and never get wet. 7 years running and no issues.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
X4
I found this old thread and thought it may be time to revisit. Technology is moving fast and I would like to hear some current opinions.
I always recommend LEDs that are manufactured with a process called potting. This process encases the circuit board with resin to completely seal it from moisture. I would make sure the lights you purchase are made using this process. My company designs heavy duty wiring and lighting harnesses specifically for salt water boat trailers. We use TecNiq LED lights exclusively in our trailer wiring and lighting kits. TecNiq also makes underwater transom lights made with the same potting process. Knowing that their underwater lights hold up being constantly submerged on a boat, I feel that they are the best option for boat trailer lights.
It has already been said here several times but I’ll say it again. DO NOT ground every light to the frame using the lights mounting hardware.
Always run a dedicated ground wire for each light all the way to the vehicle connector or junction box. Then run 1 ground wire and attach it to the frame near the trailers tongue where it will not get submerged when you launch your boat.
Tight lines and following seas. F.V Pura Vida 29’ Reg
I have finally given in to the pipe lights. All connections are above water and any connections are near the light assembly and then the next but splice from there is near the coupler at the tongue again out of the water. You can buy rolls of trailer wire for cheap and just keep the grounds run up to the tongue. I am thinking I have defeated my salt intrusion by doing so. All butt splices are heat shrink type
“If you can’t fix a woman, chase some tail with fins and fur!!!”
2008 Sea Pro 1900cc w/115
(2) Daughters that make the boys cry
(1) wife that makes her husband take the kids outdoors to chase their dreams!
quote:
Originally posted by jason@krakenwiringI found this old thread and thought it may be time to revisit. Technology is moving fast and I would like to hear some current opinions.
I always recommend LEDs that are manufactured with a process called potting. This process encases the circuit board with resin to completely seal it from moisture. I would make sure the lights you purchase are made using this process. My company designs heavy duty wiring and lighting harnesses specifically for salt water boat trailers. We use TecNiq LED lights exclusively in our trailer wiring and lighting kits. TecNiq also makes underwater transom lights made with the same potting process. Knowing that their underwater lights hold up being constantly submerged on a boat, I feel that they are the best option for boat trailer lights.
It has already been said here several times but I’ll say it again. DO NOT ground every light to the frame using the lights mounting hardware.
Always run a dedicated ground wire for each light all the way to the vehicle connector or junction box. Then run 1 ground wire and attach it to the frame near the trailers tongue where it will not get submerged when you launch your boat.
Tight lines and following seas. F.V Pura Vida 29’ Reg
Why ground the trailer frame if you are not using it as a conductor for the lights?
As far as using the epoxy poured LED’s, that’s pretty much how all of the submersible lights are designed, for many years now. Do you have a link or some pics of the ones you are referencing? The ones I ended up using from etrailers have served me well.
Fishing Nerd
“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”