Bilge pump stuck - recommendations for new one?

I have a older style Rule-Mate 500 bilge pump in my “new to me” boat. When I pulled the boat out of the water yesterday, I could hear something running in the bilge area. Turns out the bilge pump was constantly running for no reason.

What surprised me was that the pump would continue to run when I turned my dual-battery switch to the off position. I guess the pump is hard wired to bypass the battery switch. This make sense, but the only way to kill the pump was to unplug the wiring harness. It isn’t wired to a switch on the console at all.

Anyhow — to my real question. I was about to order another Rule-Mate 500 to replace mine. All of the reviews I am reading on these things are HORRIBLE. Seems that everyone ends up having this pump get stuck in the on position quite regularly. Mine looks like a previous version — not exactly like the new version I am seeing with the electronic water-sensing switch.

Is there a better pump I can replace this thing with? I don’t want to always have to worry about this thing coming on and draining/ruining one of my batteries. Or, should I just re-wire the whole thing so that the battery switch is back in play? It’s not like I ever leave this thing unattended in the water anyhow. And, I have this paranoia that causes me to always check my bilge while I am out (new boat owner thing, I guess).

Pioneer 175 BaySport

Rule is the pretty much the standard for pumps from what I understand. It’s your boat and you can wire it however you’d like, I think the leaving the bilge on auto is for when the boat is left moored for extended periods of time…Having said that I’m sure someone will have something quite the opposite to say. Keep checking that bilge though, that is never a bad idea!

Fishing Nerd

“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”

The float switch is hung up. I replaced mine and added two pumps, one wired direct for automatic and one wired to switch. Works great.

Pokey joe is dead on! Check for trash under the float!

IF you can terminate the “constant power” There are 2 brown lines to the pump. You can also put an inline fuse on the constant line and just not put a fuse in it also. My boat did this forever and I finally just did away with the automatic feature.


After being released, a lot of fish die, but a lot of them live also.

I think this is one of those with that “electronic sensing” switches instead of a traditional float. The float is extremely more reliable, and that’s why I am afraid to replace with another one of these electronic switching ones. But, it seems that all of these small pumps are that new style.

I guess I will just get another Rule-Mate 500. I just need to figure out how I can rewire it so that it is switch instead of constant power. The fuse idea would work — or, I am sure I can find some sort of marine-grade switch I can put down in there.

Pioneer 175 BaySport

While at Academy Sports a couple of years ago, I found a pump with a built on float. It was cheap and I bought it as a back up. I had to use it and it has worked flawlessly for over the past few years. They also had the replacment motor cartrages for them, think they were $9.95

If you neeeever leave the boat unattended then no auto is ok , buuuutt
if unattended and docked its not if but when shat happens you get a sunk ride and possibly enviro fines for fuel contamination , another thing to consider is on trailer filling ride up with rain water because trash clogged the bilge drain;;; murffies law says it will happen , its just a question of when !!![:0][:0]

If I were you and had any questions about the bilge pump system in a “new to me” boat, I would pull everything out and completely rewire it. If you are confident in some of the components, then reuse them but run fresh wires and replace anything that is questionable. It’s cheaper than a sunk boat and gives you the confidence in the system.

I would go with a Rule A Matic 40A float switch and Rule 1100 or 1500 GPH pump.

quote:
Originally posted by Rapchizzle

If I were you and had any questions about the bilge pump system in a “new to me” boat, I would pull everything out and completely rewire it. If you are confident in some of the components, then reuse them but run fresh wires and replace anything that is questionable. It’s cheaper than a sunk boat and gives you the confidence in the system.

I would go with a Rule A Matic 40A float switch and Rule 1100 or 1500 GPH pump.


What He Say…and nothing wrong with checking your bilge…smart captain.

Get something that can keep up with your garboard plug.

If you forget the plug, it takes time to get the trailer and load it back up.

1100-1500 should be able to keep up with the water coming in the drain plug. This buys you time and spares your trailer when you pull out full of water.