I’m getting ready to deal with the floor in the new/used boat we just got. If there was ever an easy lay out for redoing a floor, this would be it. I have to deal with one access hatch (currently covered with a piece of wood), and the cover to the fuel tank.(cover is still in great shape. The stringers look very solid from what I can see. In the spots where I can see it appears as if the floor isn’t actually touching the stringers. Is this how it’s supposed to be? I always figured the floor would sit on the stringers. Also, is there anywhere to order fiberglass resin (west systems etc.) stuff, or anywhere to get it in the Columbia area? One more question. This is a super newbie question. How far from the edges on each side should I cut to remove the floor? Thanks again for the info.
Also can anyone suggest tell how to post pics in a topic thread here? Would like to post some pics as we go.
I’m getting ready to deal with the floor in the new/used boat we just got. If there was ever an easy lay out for redoing a floor, this would be it. I have to deal with one access hatch (currently covered with a piece of wood), and the cover to the fuel tank.(cover is still in great shape. The stringers look very solid from what I can see. In the spots where I can see it appears as if the floor isn’t actually touching the stringers. Is this how it’s supposed to be? I always figured the floor would sit on the stringers. Also, is there anywhere to order fiberglass resin (west systems etc.) stuff, or anywhere to get it in the Columbia area? One more question. This is a super newbie question. How far from the edges on each side should I cut to remove the floor? Thanks again for the info.
Also can anyone suggest tell how to post pics in a topic thread here? Would like to post some pics as we go.
I can’t help you with the other stuff, but to post pictures you need to create an account on photobucket.com. There is a sticky on the Off Topics page to help you.
Good luck with your project. I’m looking forward to seeing the pictures and progress.
If you need any welding done(I specialize in aluminum), give me a call. My shop is just SE of Columbia off I-26.
Bob Van Gundy
Marine Designs,Inc.
Custom Aluminum Fabrication
803-727-4069
YOU DONT WANT TO USE MARINE GRADE PLY IN THE FLOOR
IT NEEDS TO BE WRAPPED IN CLOTH RESIN AND CAVASEEEL
IN THE PROPER STEPS THIS WILL SEAL THE WOOD
IF YOU USE TREATED IT WILL NOT ACCEPT THE CEMICALS IN
THE TREATED BOARD LEAVING GAPS BETWEEN LAYERS
THIS WILL EVENTUALLY ABSORB AND HOLD WATER CAUSING ROT
TAKE YOUR TIME AND STUDY UP
BIG JOB KINDA COSTLY MAKE IT WORTH YOUR MONEY
AND DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME
YOU WILL BE VERY SATISFIED WITH YOUR WORK
NOT SURE OF THE SPELLING BUT ITS A BALLOON MATERIAL
PRETTY MUCH THE FIRST THING THAT TOUCHES ALL THE RAW MATERIAL
YOU MIX IT LIKE RESIN AND SPREAD IT ON THE PLY
IT WILL FILL IN ALL THE VOIDS AND “WATERPROOF”
THE BOARD
AFTER IT DRIES ITS HARD AS A FRIGG’N ROCK
AT THAT POINT YOU CAN START WITH GLASS AND RESIN
awesome! Another question. Do you guys suggest West epoxy resin, or a non epoxy resin? I’m leaning towards west for the floor for sure, but have had some say that you should consider something else for the gunwhales etc. since west won’t accept clear coat. I was just planning on using awlgrip all over it.
Check out the project forums on classicmako (once it’s up and running again), iboats, the hulltruth and other boating sites. Those guys rebuild boats all the time and there will be tons of information on replacing decks with photos and very detailed instructions. Jamestown Distributers website also has a lot of how-tos and good prices on different epoxies and materials. Also check out gcm distributers and fiberglasssite. There should also be links to online suppliers. You don’t necessarily need to use West, it is by far the most expensive out there. Probably best to search those forums before you go in there asking questions that they have all seen hundreds of times before. Best of luck on your project.
Definitely keep us updated on the progress. The 1984 V20 I/O that I grew up on is still sitting in “storage” and is in pretty good shape aside from needing new power. I’m half tempted to repower it for use as a cruising / party boat.
From what I remember, marine grade plywood is exactly the same as regular exterior plywood, except that it has no ‘voids’. That means that any knots, splits, or checks (voids) in any layer of the ply are filled. That makes the entire volume of the laminate solid. This is not particularly critical in a boat’s floor (sole). It would be critical if you were using the plywood in the outer hull. You can imagine if you had a void in the plywood where wave action hit it, you’d eventually get that spot to collapse into the void. Then, the paint surface has failed and bad things start to happen.
Check out the forum at http://www.woodenboat.com. They may rag you a little for having a ‘plastic’ boat, but, they are very knowledgeable about what would to use where and why.
Definitly use epoxy resin, it flex’s closer to the same rate as wood and will adhere to the wood a lot better then polyester resin, dosen’t have to be West. Cabosil: microballons that are used to mix in with the resin to make it thicker to use as a void filler and stop the resin from sagging. There is really no need to use cabosil in the resin to coat the plywood with short of using it to fill any surface voids in the plywood, it would be detrimental to put cabosil in the resin used to coat the bare plywood. The thinner the resin the better it will actually penetrate into and seal the plywood, thinners aren’t reccomended tho as they can change the properties of the resin, warming up the resin a bit BEFORE mixing it will help it to penetrate a bit better. Just keep painting resin on the plywood untill it won’t absorb any more resin then glass it if needed for strength. Gougeon Bro’s makes a great epoxy as well, but pricey.
ITS NOT THE DENSITY OR QUALITY OF MARINE BOARD YOU WANT TO AVOID
ITS THE CHEMICALS THAT ARE USED TO TREAT THE BOARD
THEY MAKE IT ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE FOR PENETRATION
AND NO YOU DONT MIX CABOSIL WITH RESIN IT HAS ITS OWN
HARDNER TO USE
WE JUST FINISHED THE FLOOR ON OUR 27 WHALER FOR THIS SEASON
AND WE COULD BOUNCE AROUND ELEPHANTS OFFSHORE NO PROBLEM
THIS IS ONLY A SIGHT UNSEEN SUGGESTION NOT A
STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO LIVE BY
I WILL TRY TO GIVE PICS OF OUR PROJECT SOON
WE ARE VERY PROUD AND PLEASED OF OUR FINISHED PRODUCT
ITS NOT THE DENSITY OR QUALITY OF MARINE BOARD YOU WANT TO AVOID
ITS THE CHEMICALS THAT ARE USED TO TREAT THE BOARD
THEY MAKE IT ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE FOR PENETRATION
AND NO YOU DONT MIX CABOSIL WITH RESIN IT HAS ITS OWN
HARDNER TO USE
WE JUST FINISHED THE FLOOR ON OUR 27 WHALER FOR THIS SEASON
AND WE COULD BOUNCE AROUND ELEPHANTS OFFSHORE NO PROBLEM
THIS IS ONLY A SIGHT UNSEEN SUGGESTION NOT A
STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO LIVE BY
I WILL TRY TO GIVE PICS OF OUR PROJECT SOON
WE ARE VERY PROUD AND PLEASED OF OUR FINISHED PRODUCT
Are you saying marine grade plywood is glued together with a different adhesive?
Or…
Are you saying marine grade plywood is treated (after its manufactured) with something like what we used to call osmose or is otherwise pressure treated with some kind of rot retardant?