Any suggestions for removal of bottom paint?.., hopefulyy other than sanding? I bought my “winter project” boat in November… a ‘66 13’ Boston Whaler which sat on the trailer in the back yard until last weekend ater our son got his car out of the garage and headed back to school. I started sanding and filling the flaws that aren’t covered over but am a bit “challenged” by the amount of bottom paint there is to get off before being able to make any repairs to bhe bottom. The belt sanding pads keep filling up due to the friction and hand sanding is a bugger. Any suggestions would be appreciated…
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
there is a chemical peel you can get from west marine for removing anti-fouling paint. there will be some residue left over that can be sanded off. be sure to wear one of those white tyvek suits and a dust mask or respirator. anti-fouling is very toxic
I used a concoction made up of Red Devil lye and cornstarch.
Mix one tablespoon of lye into about a pint of water, slowly add cornstarch and stir until it begins to thicken. Add too much starch and it will lump into goo. I mixed mine in a metal paint tray like you use for painting with a roller. Actually applied most of the paste using a paint roller. Let it sit for about 2 hours then come back with a good pressure washer, I used one that would put out 2700 psi and it worked well, tried one that put out 2200 psi and it didn’t work as well. It took a couple of applications, but each time more of the bottom paint came off. Sanded and buffed and was done.
Gentlemen, thank you for the suggestions. I would have pursued the soda blasting but the boat was already upside down on blocks in my garaage… I tried a few things and ended up with a gallon of chemical peal from West Marine. I tried a test area yesterday afternoon and it works great. Will be able to finish it up Saturday without clogging my sinus passages and lungs with crud. Thanks for your suggestions…
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
Hey Sean, Sorry I missed you at your shop, one of your guys showed me the whaler you had just gel-coated, looks like it will turn out great. Thanks for the thoughts on removing the old transom drain tube. It was so corroded that it pretty much crumbled apart in pieces when tapped with a slotted screw driver and hammer. The new tube will install just fina after I’m finished with the paint job.
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
Sherwin Williams has a soy based remover. Was in a white bucket with green trim. I used it to get ablative paint off my hull. Worked great. Still has to sand some but not nearly as much.
I’ll start a thread soon with a title having to do with ‘66 Whaler 13’ Restoration in a few days. Not planning on anything custom… just trying to bring it back as close to original as I can with my budget and “skill sets” which are not anything extensive. I’d love to get some input from more experienced folks on paints. I had originally planned on using Rustoleum’s Topside paint. I had been told that the boat would have greater value if I didn’t put bottom paint back on and since it won’t be kept in water for other than 3-5 hour trips, no bottom paint seemed to be an option. I called the Rustoleum customer service line and was told they do not recommend it below the water line in part as scuffs and scrapes and can create an opening for water to get under the paint. West Marine told me that the Petit and Interlux products would be OK under the water line for 24 to 36 hours. Does anyone have any experience with these paints and below the water line use and/or thoughts on bottom paint or no bottom paint?
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
There are no topcoat paints that are recommended below the water for extended periods of time, but all are fine for several days at a time.
I wouldn’t use the rustoleum if you want a good finish. Petit Easypoxy or Interlux Brightsides are both good quality mid-grade paints that look good and hold up well.
If you really want a good tough bottom coating consider epoxy and graphite.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
Larry, Thanks for the advice … I’ll definitely plan on using either the Petit or Interlux products. In my research for bottom coatings I had come accross an epoxy product called “Coat-It Epoxy Sealer with Kevlar” that is supposed to be a tough bottom finish, ever heard of that one? On the plus side of using a tough bottom coating I love the idea of doing something to protect the hull from the inevitable encounters with oysters, but am reluctant to put on an epoxy bottom coat like that as it would seem really difficult to get off if I ever feel the need to do this again. Also, does bottom paint do anything to diminish the value of a boat?
SSFiero, I purchased a few replacement parts through Specialty Marine so far and likely will get a few more in the future. I had purchased a new bow eye from them but sent that one back as the threaded stud was 1/2" and the original Lifting Eye that screws onto the other end of the bow eye on the boat interior was 3/8". Anyway, they seem to be the go-to place for quality vintage OEM parts.
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
quote:In my research for bottom coatings I had come accross an epoxy product called "Coat-It Epoxy Sealer with Kevlar" that is supposed to be a tough bottom finish, ever heard of that one?
Never heard of that. I use a standard marine epoxy with graphite powder mixed in it. It produces a very hard finish.
quote: On the plus side of using a tough bottom coating I love the idea of doing something to protect the hull from the inevitable encounters with oysters, but am reluctant to put on an epoxy bottom coat like that as it would seem really difficult to get off if I ever feel the need to do this again
You would never have to get it off, just a light sanding and paint over it. Epoxy is forever. I use the graphite of all my boat bottoms. 5 coats makes it about oyster proof.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
Interlux makes an epoxy paint with Teflon called VC performace. It is bright white and can be wetsanded and buffed. I put it on my boat 10 years ago and still looks new. can be purchased from west marine also.
Another question… As I have finished all of the repairs to the exterior of the hull and am nearly finished with sanding out the crazing on the gelcoat, do I need to coat the hull with epoxy before priming and painting, or am I able to simply prime and paint the epoxy paints on top of the old gelcoat after sanding all of the crazing level?
Hobie Outback
WS Ride 135
‘66 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25
15’ Henry O w/Johnson 50
