Thanks for the input. 10+ years ago one of my friends had it on his reel. I asked to try it for a bit. It cast great - great feel for the bite - and strong. That I was impressed with.
What turned me off was wind knots mainly. Hand flipping the bail is suppose to help that along with keeping slack out. The other was if you hung you would make the boat move trying to break it loose as well as the cut hazard. I tried 30-40# mono for catfish once. Used it one trip - trashed it all and went back to my normal 20# for same reason. You have to palm the spool and pull the reel - not the rod or you can bust any blank off.
Now my eyes aren’t what they were and that limp line in a good breeze will make you talk about peeps ancestry. I just did one reel to try it. All the rest still have mono or co-poly line.
Jughed - why would the 30#pp be any more prone to windknots than #15pp??
One of the things I intend to use it for is some freshwater in grass and thick cover. The #30 should be good in that case. You should be able to feel a jig really good in salt or fresh.
If you buy Power Pro, it comes with a handy little guide book to help you with knots specific for braid and covers many types of knots like line to line, to terminal tackle and more, but remember even though the higher pound braids, even with their small test diameter will giver you trouble casting a light bait. Also from personal experience I have tried a lot of different braid brands from power pro, super 8, super slick and a lot of the new high end 40 dollar a spool stuff and when you start to go over 15 pound there really isn’t a significant difference in the power pro and others. Also you can tie directly to the spool with a little extra effort like wrapping before you tie and using different knots then mono, and I feel like it is a lot harder to pop 15# braid then 15# mono. Finally if you do spool your reel with heavy braid be aware that often the braid will be stronger then the gearing in your reel and will over strain and damage your gearing and cause things like drag skipping and weakening. Trust me I’ve been using braid for over ten years and the durability, reliability, and sensitivity is currently the best that is widely available and affordable, the only thing I ever use besides it is fluorocarbon and that’s just for leaders.
I fish braid on all my rods for a few years. I actively fish the same 3 rods eveeytime I fish. All have braid. In 2 years of fishing those 1-3 times a week. I remeber getting one wind knot. And i fish artificial lures at LM bass once a week so frequent casting. Its all about the appropriate pound test, and the right rod to balance it! Ill never fish anything but braid inshore anymore. No point not too! I can feel a gnat fart on ny hook at 50 yards…
Uni to uni is the easiest for me. If you are using the Albright make sure you are tying the mono around the braid. If you do the opposite I have had the braid cut through the mono.
I think technically the Albright loses less line strength than the uni to uni but most line we are using is push 10+ lbs more than it says. That is more than enough to compensate for a little bit of line strength lost in the knot.
“Back home we got a taxidermy man. He gonna have a heart attack when he see what I brung him”
Mark
Pioneer 222 Sportfish Yamaha F300
Yeah, but do you consider a dog to be a filthy animal? I wouldn’t go so far as to call a dog filthy but they’re definitely dirty. But, a dog’s got personality. Personality goes a long way.
“Life’s tough…It’s even tougher if you’re stupid” John Wayne
For bottom fishing, I use braid exclusively. For casting (like bass fishing) , I use mono. As for knots, the Palomar is the easiest to tie with the highest knot strength. It has won the “Berkley Knot Wars” for the strongest knot strength. For cutting braid, you will have to use scissors or line cutters that are made specifically for braid. Standard nail clippers will not work and even a sharp knife can be a pain.
Molon Labe!
Until you have loved a dog, part of your soul remains unawakened. - Anatole France (paraphrased)
Thanks guys for the help with the knot tying sites! I knew a few of them already but there were some people were talking about that I never heard of. Thanks again.
I went with the 30#PP on my bottom fishing rod / Penn9 . I had some #20 Spyderwire I put on my 6500Abu. You really have a good feel for the bite with it. I just went back to lighter mono on my artificial outfits w/ 10# Suffix Superior.
The uni to uni works great with the joining lines. Uni does good to the hook with the PP but, had to go with Palomar on the Spyderwire. It wanted to slip when you tried to tighten it down. There was a neat booklet that came with the PP. It’s in my tackle box now. Interesting knots & how-to’s and some I had never heard of before.
To those having trouble with wind knots, the type and quality of reel is the reason. I take many complete novices fishing every year, and they are able to fish all day with zero tangles or aggravation using 10-15 lb. braid. Some reels I’ve owned just do not perform well with braid. One of THE WORST I’ve had recently is the Penn Battle 3000. It is an awesome reel for its price-point with mono, but it sucks with lighter braid.
As far as I’m concerned braid sucks. I switched to it a few years ago and have nothing but contempt for it now. The fish that I don’t land because of mono are worth it to me vs. the frustration of trying to tie knots in a moderate breeze, and I’m going to spend my time off the water doing a hundred other things than sitting in my shed tying rigs with a magnifying glass. I’ve wasted more time tying knots with sweat dripping in my eyes behind my reading glasses with braid than I care to remember. How many fish did I miss during the 45 minutes of a good bite messing with that infernal thread? I can tie mono with my eyes closed, let alone need reading glasses, and be casting to the next fish in no time. When I hang up with mono I bust it off and keep fishing. With braid I dang near cut my fingers off trying to break it before I snap a rod blank. I don’t drop shot through a weed mat to catch inshore saltwater fish, or cast 75 yards to a school of bonefish in the Wando River, or freespool 200 ft. down for a decent flounder. I can tie an improved clinch knot on either end of mono, to a swivel, a lure, or a hook, and I’m good to go. I don’t need a Smart Phone with a knot tying app to keep up with all the mumbo jumbo knots for braided line either. I’m not spending $4.00 a gallon for gas to go out and earn a merit badge for knot tying, I’m going to feel that tug, and catch a few fish. Mono forever!
