Putting 20 lb powerpro braid on a 4000 size Penn reel which holds 280 yards of 20 lb braid. The Powerpro is sold in spools of 150 yds so the braid is quite low when spooled on the reel. Is this a normal occurance, will the reel cast as good being not filled all the way up?
I would add mono backing to fill the gap. To little line will effect its performance.
A wise man once said “Do as I say not as I do” Good advice when I tell you that.
Just about everywhere also has the 300 yard spools of Power Pro as well. Even after saying that, I don’t see the need for 280 yards of 20lb braid. If something runs off with 150 yards of line before you can stop it or cut the line it’s going to take the full spool anyways. I’d just back it with mono if it were me. Just make sure the mono is spooled tight and correctly so the braid won’t cut down between the mono if it gets down to it with a heavy load on it.
2012 Carolina Skiff J14, 25 Merc, Foil & Jackplate
Can you take the braid off the reel ok after its already put on the spool. Will it go back on. What kind of knot do you use to tie the braid directly to the mono line… If I leave the 150yds of braid on without the mono will it really matter?
Uni to Uni knot for the line… And the tackle shops don’t charge a labor cost to spool, you just pay for the price of line. PP20 is 13c per yard. If you bring the braid in its a small fee per reel. Also it won’t cast well if not full
14’ Skiff-“Redfish Reaper”
Yes, it will matter in casting performance. The line will not come off the reel as well if you don’t nearly fill the spool. If you have another reel, reel the braid off the new one and onto it. Put enough mono “backing” on the reel so you know that the braid will fill it by using one of the common leader knots like uni/uni or Albright specials to join the braid to the mono backing. Check how much line retrieval the 4000 Penn has per crank, it should be listed in the specs. For instance the battle has 34". That means you would need to crank about 146 times to put on 130 yards of mono then load the rest with braid.
16’ High Tide Flats (Green) w/Yamaha 90
Wilderness Ride 135
Wilderness Tarpon 120
Just reel it from the current onto another one. Add the mono to the original one & then reel the braid back onto it once again.
You can get 300 yards of Power Pro, but you still need a mono backing. If you fill the difference with mono and then add 150 of Power Pro, use another reel to take the line off. Just reel it off backwards with a spare reel or on another rod and reel. The Power Pro at the bottom of the spool on the old reel will be almost brand new. That is an easy trick to extend the life of your Power Pro.
Yes, it matters that you have a mono backing. All the Power Pro on the spool will spin, and you will have difficulty reeling in a fish if you are able to reel the fish in at all. Always use a mono backing. If you use 300 yards of Power Pro, you only need a short piece of mono of the backing…maybe the length of the rod or so. Then, just double uni the mono to the Power Pro and fill the spool. Presto! Good fishing. Use the information at the top when you Power Pro is getting old and ragged. Hope this helps.
quote:
Originally posted by InshoreAnglerCan you take the braid off the reel ok after its already put on the spool. Will it go back on. What kind of knot do you use to tie the braid directly to the mono line… If I leave the 150yds of braid on without the mono will it really matter?
2012 Skeeter ZX22 Bay
Yamaha 250 hp SHO
Minnkota Riptide 101
InshoreAngler?hope you don’t mind…I’m going to jump into this discussion with another question about putting on mono backing line?
I’ve done that, tying braid to mono using a uni-uni knot. But, I’m having the problem that when I cast, as the braid peels off the reel it is snagging on the uni knot and interferes with the distance of the cast. How can I stop the line from snagging on the knot??
Seatonic, pull all the braid out. when you get to the knot push the mono down on the spool so the knot is now all the way down at the bottom of the spool, reel in the braid.
Make sure you cleanly cut all excess tag ends from the knot.
Another option I heard used is to back the spool with electrical tape.
No expert but will offer my amateur experience.
You don’t need tape or mono on the Battle. I haven’t had any of mine slip with the built in rubber gasket. With the gasket, they can advertise 280 a on a 4000 and almost get it (Okuma claims more for their 4000s but functionally get 220 or so of 20 after the necessary backing. But the Battle 4000s get a little close to the lip at 280, I get about 250-260 before the windknots. Let the guys at HP or CA do it the first time -they know when to stop. I’ve found that it does make sense to flip the line around after a year. Almost new line after the first hundred yards or so -you can see it in the color and smoothness. But if you plan to flip it, I’d get the full spool of braid. I lose more than I would have thought through the year with breakoffs, reties, or cutting at a fray. Plus I take off an extra 20 yards or so as a precaution. The next year you can have your 150 of braid with mono backing. Before flipping, I put the mono backing on like a topshot up to the full spool (no windknots point I started off with with the full braid spool. Then take the spool off and reel onto a spare spool for the perfect amount of backing -cheaper to cut mono before flipping than good braid after. I’ve never had a problem with an improved Albright (other than slicing my fingers on the braid when tightening). It works fine for braid to backing and skinny enough for casting for braid to leader. Again not expert, but have lost enough line to break offs and knots to have an opinion.
I didnt see any mention of what model Penn reel.
OP, what model?
It was a Penn SSV 4500. I added some 10 pound mono backing and did the uni to uni knot to connect. Got it to about 90% of capacity. Good to go. Thanks!
Google is your friend.
Wrapping the spool with electrical tape after trying the line to the spool works best for me. I learned the hard way with a fish on the line… What a mess! With most of the line out I dipped the reel in the water to get the line wet. It worked but I don’t recommend it as a solution. For some reason I don’t have this problem on my baitcasters.
Mark Ingle
NauticStar 1810 Merc 90
Lots of good responses here. In your case, the best option is to back with mono before the braid. Unless you are surf fishing with the reel, you’ll probably never see the mono. Uni to uni or better yet, a Bristol or Albright will securely connect the two. As mentioned, the casting performance will suffer but an under filled spool will also affect drag performance. The less line on the spool, the greater drag pressure and the narrower range for drag adjustments. If you did fill the spool with braid, masking tape or (better) one of the newer silicone based tapes will keep it from slipping. Lowes has a good stretchy tape in the plumbing section (not Teflon tape).
dicks sells 300yd rolls of pp…or chas angler cn fill it fer ya
Some Fish Some Catch
15.5 glassmaster
70hp evinrude vro