It is time to do a front brake job on my wife’s car (2013 Toyota Highlander). I buy all my parts from Rock Auto and see that they have a rotor/pad set with drilled and slotted rotors that is not a whole lot more than standard rotors. For every article I find on the internet that says they are great, I find another saying they will crack/warp.
I am looking for some constructive and objective input regarding slotted/drilled rotors vs. standard smooth rotors.
Thanks.
Buy OEM Toyota rotors and pads. You will not be happy with anything else. I have had numerous Toyota cars/trucks and have done all my maintenance. If you are going to replace, get OEM. You would be better off turning the stock rotors than starting down the path of aftermarket. For Toyota and MB I only buy OEM parts. For every other brand of car I have bought good quality aftermarket. Nobody makes parts better than Toyota and MB.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
The slotting is designed to allow quicker heat dissipation. Quality slot vs smooth will not warp as quickly. Slotted rotors are mostly for faster/ hi line a production cars and oem on many. You didn’t see them on all production lines because they are more expensive to produce.
Many times rotors are changed unnecessary. If you don’t see any heat cracking or glazed spots and do not notice any vibration / pulling while braking id re-use. Many auto shops will show you the heat blueing and say they need to be replaced. Put on new rotors and one hard braking they will look the same.
I’ve had a few Toyota’s and never had an issue with aftermarket , I even put a set of slotted rotors on an old 82 that was running 44”s. Worked like a top.
Just my way of thinking. Put the rotors back on that were original. Slotted may not be a whole lot more, but that means they are more. Toyota new the origs were sufficient.
Try not to break anything in the process.
Hilton Head - unofficial shark bite capital of the world.
Tacoma had developed a major vibration when applying brakes. Went to Autozone and purchased pads and rotors. OEM products and good as new.
Saved $210 vs dealer, and son learned how to do it himself.
That Peapod guy is slipping, figured he would say “brake anything”[:0].
NN
Use only the best for my girl friend, when she dumps you:smiley:
You can’t afford her Pea. Thanks all for the input. I’ll let you know if I break anything during the repair.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
I know Pea can’t afford her, but I’ll give her the life style she deserves:smiley:
Lord knows she deserves better than me for sure.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
Has anybody used Brakes 4 Less? Their prices seem too good to be true…
DO NOT use Brakes 4 Less. A good friend of mine owned an auto repair shop here in Columbia for more than 40 years. He said he saw more bad brake jobs come in from them than any other shop. He said they use the absolute cheapest crap parts you can find. They are brakes, I would not go that cheap.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
quote:
Originally posted by DFreedomDO NOT use Brakes 4 Less. A good friend of mine owned an auto repair shop here in Columbia for more than 40 years. He said he saw more bad brake jobs come in from them than any other shop. He said they use the absolute cheapest crap parts you can find. They are brakes, I would not go that cheap.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
100% concur, I never get the low-line economy pads or shoes. A little more money and trusted name brand in this case is an absolute gain.
Whichever ones you go with, make sure you get the paste for the back of the pads and apply liberally.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
X2 on Brakes for Less.
Worst ever.
When customer service called with a follow up survey, I told them.
They wanted to know if the waiting room was clean…
Brakes 4 Less are for folks who have the latest iPhone, but owe money on their car to a title loan place. Folks with different priorities. Unfortunately there are a lot of those type out there, so B4L have a pretty solid business model.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
Copy that on B4L. I figured it was a too good to be true situation. Thanks for the info.
What’s the deal here DF? Are her new brakes on yet? Have a good weekend buddy
Hilton Head - unofficial shark bite capital of the world.
Nah, not yet. I am a “plan ahead” kind of guy so that is on my “to do” in a couple of weeks list. I have to go out of town to a funeral tomorrow so it kind of changed my plans. Don’t you and Easy worry, I won’t let anything happen to her.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
We went by Brakes for Less, dropped off the vehicle and the guy called back a few hours later. He said the basic brake job was $49.00 for pads, but ours needed new retaining clips so the price was in the hundreds of $$. I said, you mean the clips that come with the brake pads? He hemmed and hawed and insisted the retaining clips needed to be replaced.
Picked up the vehicle, went to Advanced Auto, got the pads (with the retaining clips) and did the job myself.
I’m not going to say they are bait and switch…but they are bait and scam. At least with my experience.
“I am constantly amazed at the stupidity of the general public.”
~my dad
Equipment:
2007 Grady White 222 Fisherman / 250 Yamaha
Simrad NSS evo2 and G4
1- 22 boy that won’t move out)
1 - 18 year old (fishing maniac)
1 - wife (The Warden)
ECFC