Changin baystar seal help

I have had a leaking seal and went to change it today. The directions seem pretty simple, but I can’t get the sopport rod nut
loose. Any suggestions or does anybody have a video I can look at. I couldn’t find a specific video for changing the seals. I have a 2006 Yamaha 150. Here is the nut i need suggestions for.

Just did mine this week. That black jam nut to the left put a wrench on its twin on the opposite side and a wrench on the silver nut in the pic and begin to loosen all the way off on the single nut. then force the motor all the way to the left or right side to pop that stainless curved shaft that attaches to the hydraulic shaft with the single stainless lock nut. this will pop it out so that you can get those two curved shafts off to replace the seal. Make sure you have taken the (2) stainless lock nuts off first before forcing the motor back and forth to pop that curved rod out.

“If you can’t fix a woman, chase some tail with fins and fur!!!”

2008 Sea Pro 1900cc w/115

(2) Daughters that make the boys cry

(1) wife that makes her husband take the kids outdoors to chase their dreams!

Also make sure to cut both hydraulic lines loose from the cylinder before doing any of the procedure above. You will have little fluid draining out but you won’t loose all of it. You will need to bleed it as well after the installation of the new seals. I did a makeshift bleeder by attaching 2 clear pieces of tubing on each bleeder valve and stuck it in a catch bottle (powerade bottle) that way when you begin to purge the air from the system it won’t suck air back into the system because your hoses will remain under the purged fluid in the catch bottle. Also you can use your lower unit oil dispenser to put fluid into the helm at the the fill cap on the steering wheel. I did this solo and it can be a little tricky so if you have a helper it will be much cleaner and easier. Youtube may help with this procedure

“If you can’t fix a woman, chase some tail with fins and fur!!!”

2008 Sea Pro 1900cc w/115

(2) Daughters that make the boys cry

(1) wife that makes her husband take the kids outdoors to chase their dreams!

Oh yeah, one more thing, after you get the hydraulic seals off pull the hydraulic shaft to where you can use some scotch brite pads to buff / smooth any burrs from oxidation that could damage your new seals.

“If you can’t fix a woman, chase some tail with fins and fur!!!”

2008 Sea Pro 1900cc w/115

(2) Daughters that make the boys cry

(1) wife that makes her husband take the kids outdoors to chase their dreams!

Thank you so much! Any idea what size wrenches I need? I am heading out to get some more fluid as we speak and can get some new wrenches. Thanks again for the help! I was about to give up.

www.ChrisWestSellsCharleston.com.

Give me a call if you are looking to buy or sell a house in the Charlaston area.

Do you mind posting some pics on here of your work? I am about to do this on mine.

“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson

Wilderness Ride 115

(2) 10" crescent wrenches will do just fine because I used one and can’t remember the size of the wrench that was used as well. I only bought 1 qt. to purge the fluid with and that was just right at $30 per quart. If you are gonna flush the system then you better get another it just depends on how deep your wallet is.

“If you can’t fix a woman, chase some tail with fins and fur!!!”

2008 Sea Pro 1900cc w/115

(2) Daughters that make the boys cry

(1) wife that makes her husband take the kids outdoors to chase their dreams!

Thanks! I was able to get the nut on he left side off of the motor with just my fingers.

However,
I still can’t get the support nut off. I was able to loose the jam but that is right next to the silver support nut. Is the silver nut threaded the opposite way? I am sorry for the ignorance. Everything else I am able to do with regard to the seal change! This is all that’s holding me back. Thanks again for your time and patience

www.ChrisWestSellsCharleston.com.

Give me a call if you are looking to buy or sell a house in the Charlaston area.

If you can get one side off, why bother with the other? You should be able to remove the cylinder by leaving the support rod attached.

“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson

Wilderness Ride 115

I was just able to remove the cap/bolt on the left side of the motor. I don’t think that alone will allow me to move the rod to get to the seals. I still think I have to get the silver support nut loose before I can get it to move. Hoping someone will describe that for me!

www.ChrisWestSellsCharleston.com.

Give me a call if you are looking to buy or sell a house in the Charlaston area.

Now is when you force the motor to the side to pop out that curved shaft that connects to the end of the hydraulic shaft. Again make sure you remove both small stainless lock nuts not in these pics. That curved shaft that is on the single large but that you removed will probably be the one to pop out some. You don’t need to bother the other two large nuts anymore. I promise!

“If you can’t fix a woman, chase some tail with fins and fur!!!”

2008 Sea Pro 1900cc w/115

(2) Daughters that make the boys cry

(1) wife that makes her husband take the kids outdoors to chase their dreams!

Can you move the L-shaped support rod that are on the tilt tube?
I just went through this. Those should move freely as the motor tilts up and down. I had one stuck in place and I had to replace the tilt tube because it broke off trying to remove it.
Like Geronimo said, if you can get one loose, don’t mess with the other unless your prepared to replace a lot of broken stuff.
You can remove the nuts on the end and get it free. The support brackets don’t go all the way thru the tilt tube.
Good luck.

10% of the people catch 90% of the fish.