Checklist for Trailering to the Keys?

I’m getting ready to trailer my 21 Key West CC to Long Key in a few weeks. It’s a tandem axle Road King. I’d like input from anyone who does long haul trailering for a checklist of what to do or bring. So far I have:

  1. I’m checking, cleaning and or replacing all Hubs.
  2. 2 extra spare tires
  3. Stand Jack and 2 jack stands
  4. Straps to tie boat down
  5. trailer lights
  6. Truck checkup
  7. Need a good 12V Air inflator. Any recommendations?
  8. Trailer brakes are completely shot and rusted. I hate trailer brakes, but trying to decide if necessary. Only long haul trailer my boat 1 time a year or less.
    etc.

I’ve never done this before, so I want to be prepared. Thanks.

www.rossturpin.com

Take the turnpike do not go through Miami pay the tolls and enjoy the ride.

I’ve towed my 21 down 3 times now I don’t have breaks not really a need.

don’t tail gate

starting Daytona down people drive like Sh*t HEADS so know that

if your tires are old replace them now better than changing a tire in a rainstorm on 95 in a construction zone.

check leaf springs or torsion axle

I bring my grease gun as well just in case

Sabalo 21 150 Yamaha

Key West Stealth 150 V-max (SOLD)

Good lugnut wrench with a long handle for more torque. Those rusted lugnuts can be a bear to loosen with the light weight wrench in most vehicles.

Spartanburg/Edisto
Sea Hunt 27 “Saltwater Gospel”
Bomb Island 16 “Hookin’ Heels”

I’ve done that trip a dozen times from Columbia. Add in: a spare hub with bearings already greased, a tube of grease and a grease gun. I’ve swapped out a hub at a truck stop in Ft. Pierce (where I get on the turnpike).

What Flat Bottom said. The turnpike is far batter than 95 all the way down and the tolls are worth it (ask me how I know). You can go online and buy a transponder (I got the cheap one and it has lasted 7 years) and you can load it online. OR, you can stop at any CVS once you get into FL and buy one there or at the Florida welcome center. Take your time, do not get in a hurry. It’s a little long but not a bad trip.

“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?

Some stuff to lug along if ya have room:
-6x6 block cut @ a 45* to pull/back one tire up on (saves jacking)
-cordless impact & impact sockets to fit vehicle & trailer
-trailer to vehicle - safety chains (read somewhere cables aren’t accepted in FL)
-good pressure gauge
-buy a cheap laser thermometer - stop now & then to shoot the hubs
-rags, leather gloves & a small can of Gojo
-put a stake-on kit together with tools/fittings to repair trailer lights (may even carry a spare tail light)
-big ratchet strap - something parts, it can be useful
-tools to fit all trailer fasteners
-orange cone to put out when repairing or just parked on road- those silver-hairs may see it.
-For the vehicle: extra coolant, if diesel - fuel filter and strap wrench

-I believe all axles on trailers are required to have brakes (if you get into 30mph stop & go traffic without any, your vehicle will hate you)

-spare set of keys to all locks & vehicles
-I put some reflective tape on the backside of the motors & trailer fenders - lights things up when headlights hit them
-red or orange flag/cloth tied to prop (Stars & Bars will work)

If you have time? Order a surpass. It makes traveling the Turnpike south of Ft Pierce much easier! Just register the sticker put it on your windshield and drive. Once you are on the turnpike just drive through the tolls, no stopping. Also its a good idea to get a Trailer license plate if you don’t have one. Its required in Florida. I’ve done it without, but the patrol can pull you without one. Here’s the link for Sunpass.

https://www.sunpass.com/en/home/index.shtml

Lots of good information here. We trailer down every year. The impact and grease gun are a must. Also, if you have a tow service (Boat US. SeaTow) it is worth the extra couple of dollars to get unlimited road side service.
Two years ago we had two flats on the trailer within an hour. We were stuck on I95 at 2:00am. No exists in site. Our tow service hauled the boat to the nearest hotel. The next morning they came back and towed our rig to a service center (since we were out of spares)…zero dollars out of pocket. Well worth the $.

Safe travels.

Made the trip a few times myself with my 21’ down to Marathon. All very good advice from the other responders to your question. Take the turnpike and be ready to stop every 2 hours for gas. If you have the time try to break your lugnuts free at home just so you know they can come off, then re-torque them. Or you can bring a cheap propane torch to heat the nuts to loosen if they are really stuck. That has never failed me.

BTW I just took the brakes off of my trailer, two trailer shops said I didn’t really need them. I hated those things.

Oops, forgot one more simple tip. Wrap your windshield in saran wrap (tape the end with packing tape). When you get there take it off and no stubborn dead bugs to clean off.

quote:
Oops, forgot one more simple tip. Wrap your windshield in saran wrap

Good tip as well as many others. I actually remove mine, wrap it in a towel and put it in the back of my truck.

“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?

Man this is Awesome information. Thanks.

www.rossturpin.com

Thinking of my issues in 7 trips with boat to Islamorada. Wench strap on trailer broke as I was pulling boat out on day before we were going to leave. Luckily there was a hardware store still open so a spare strap is a cheap was to avoid this. One year I had locked my trailer at a public boat ramp and the lock had rusted shut. Saved by a hacksaw. (also has happened in my driveway at home and the cutting wheel on a Dremel tool will cut through a trailer lock quickly). I have a friend who says to never put the boat in the water on the day that you get there unless the hubs have had several hours to cool. If they are still hot and are suddenly cooled in the water at the boat ramp that this sudden cooling can suck salt water into the hub assembly and cause havoc that may not be evident until you are back on the road heading home (though this may not be true or not true for newer/better hubs).

Spartanburg/Edisto
Sea Hunt 27 “Saltwater Gospel”
Bomb Island 16 “Hookin’ Heels”

Flat land - let the brakes rust away , just keep grease in the hubs. Don’t forget your wallet - some of the ramps charge like crazy

Couple of good tire plug kits and a can of PB Blaster.

CatHouse, what is your tow vehicle?

I trailer my boat to Islamorada every summer. Above is all great advice. If your trailer tires are over three years old, replace them with new tires. The heat will play hell on any dry rot. Ask me how I know.

Personally, for my peace of mind, I’d take the trailer to Charleston Trailer or another shop and have them give it an inspection, recommend any fixes, etc. If there’s something I can potentially screw up and cost myself a lot of money, I’d rather leave it to the experts.

2016 Boston Whaler 230 Vantage w/300 Merc Verado

quote:
Originally posted by 7cs

CatHouse, what is your tow vehicle?


2005 Nissan Titan with tow package

www.rossturpin.com

You should be fine.

quote:
Originally posted by DG34YF

Some stuff to lug along if ya have room:
-6x6 block cut @ a 45* to pull/back one tire up on (saves jacking)
-cordless impact & impact sockets to fit vehicle & trailer
-trailer to vehicle - safety chains (read somewhere cables aren’t accepted in FL)
-good pressure gauge
-buy a cheap laser thermometer - stop now & then to shoot the hubs
-rags, leather gloves & a small can of Gojo
-put a stake-on kit together with tools/fittings to repair trailer lights (may even carry a spare tail light)
-big ratchet strap - something parts, it can be useful
-tools to fit all trailer fasteners
-orange cone to put out when repairing or just parked on road- those silver-hairs may see it.
-For the vehicle: extra coolant, if diesel - fuel filter and strap wrench

-I believe all axles on trailers are required to have brakes (if you get into 30mph stop & go traffic without any, your vehicle will hate you)

-spare set of keys to all locks & vehicles
-I put some reflective tape on the backside of the motors & trailer fenders - lights things up when headlights hit them
-red or orange flag/cloth tied to prop (Stars & Bars will work)


Good tips here, and I think the cables are accepted if they are stamped with the proper info on them, I believe…

Some say you need a tag on the trailer as well but I’m not 100% sure, I didn’t tag mine when I took it in 2016. Transom strap is a must though.

Fishing Nerd

“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”