use a Y hose adapter(or two water sources) and flush thru the flush fitting and thru muffs at the same time. Its what Yamaha recommends for running any of the HPDI engines when servicing. You’ve got to supply enough water to fill the block and run long enough for the thermostats to open. Its going to take longer than most people think. As far as a waste of water, how much does that water cost vs. the cost of corrosion?
Back when I had my 26’ Sailfish w twins, I’d always flush the engines using a plastic drum, when I could. My thought was that this is how the engine “normally” draws the water in, therefore is the best method. I do this w the small boat I run now. Main thing to watch out for tho is the water in the drum warming up too much. To overcome this obstacle, I would C-clamp the hose to the drum and continually run cool water into the drum. I typically would only idle.
My 2000 Yamaha 200 has been flushed and run on the hose adapter since it was new. Back then, that was what the manual said to do. I just had the impeller changed a couple of years ago and it looked almost perfect with the exception of a little wear and a few small chunks missing. It will not run on muffs alone without overheating but it runs fine on the adapter.
use a Y hose adapter(or two water sources) and flush thru the flush fitting and thru muffs at the same time. Its what Yamaha recommends for running any of the HPDI engines when servicing. You’ve got to supply enough water to fill the block and run long enough for the thermostats to open. Its going to take longer than most people think. As far as a waste of water, how much does that water cost vs. the cost of corrosion?
My 2000 Yamaha 200 has been flushed and run on the hose adapter since it was new. Back then, that was what the manual said to do. I just had the impeller changed a couple of years ago and it looked almost perfect with the exception of a little wear and a few small chunks missing. It will not run on muffs alone without overheating but it runs fine on the adapter.
My 2000 Yamaha 200 has been flushed and run on the hose adapter since it was new. Back then, that was what the manual said to do. I just had the impeller changed a couple of years ago and it looked almost perfect with the exception of a little wear and a few small chunks missing. It will not run on muffs alone without overheating but it runs fine on the adapter.
Dunno. I get water coming out the bottom, but it doesn’t pee with the attachment. I thought I read that you weren’t supposed to run the engine with the flush attachment so I’ve never tried. I usually flush with muffs and the engine running.
Back when my motor was new (2000) it was suggested that it be run and flushed through the hose adapter. Some years later, they changed the instructions to say not to run the engine. Mine, when hooked to the hose adapter, pees whether running or not. I have water coming out the foot also.
The flush attachment is meant to be used without the motor running. The yamaha manuals recommend 15 minutes without the motor running. It is not designed to cool properly with the water hose on the attachment. It is on page 74 of the F150 manual.
“There’s a fine line between fishing and standing on the shore looking like an idiot.”