do you have an opinion on racor clear bowl outboard fuel filters vs the OEM “big blue” all metal Yamaha filters the new boats all seem to come with?
from what I read and I am not a mechanic, the racor has advantages, only possible thing I ever read about was they can be overtightened easily ?
Amazes me yamaha does not sell a clear bowl filter. the blue filter is really big tho. I guess if u change it frequently and use only pure gas it can be ok
then there is the hull truth forum big arguments pro and con on the advantages of 2 (two) micron filters - anyone locally using those?
racor
you can see whats in the filter between changes
we dont use the 2 micron
they clog to easily
i suppose you could run a 2 micron after a 10 micron, and install a vacuum gauge to make sure you arent causeing resctriction problems
depending on where the filter is located, the plastic bowl may not be legal for use, you may need to use the aluminum bowl. The large Yamaha filter holds a bunch of water but tends to rust easily on the outside if in a bilge, and they are a little pricey. The racors filter work good, but cost a quite a bit more, because they cost more, most people just keep draining them rather than replacing them, the internals of a racor filter will rust at the top of the element if its had water in it, if you get a racor full of water, replace it, don’t try to reuse it.If you’ve ever tried to replace a racor while at sea, it can be a bit daunting, unless you have another rigged up with the bowl already. If you use the plastic bowl, they get fogged up after a while, you can’t tell if its gas or water once they get some age on them. The drain seal on the plastic bowl need to be changed often as well, they tend to leak once they get some age on them. I recomend just using a 10 micron standard size spin on metal element(Siera works fine), keep a spare filter in a plastic coffee can, if you have to swap out the filter at sea, you can put the old filter in the can and put the lid on it to prevent spilling it. If you want to see if had water in it, you can pour it into the can and inspect it. I’d rather have a couple new spare filters than just one with a drain
depending on where the filter is located, the plastic bowl may not be legal for use, you may need to use the aluminum bowl. The large Yamaha filter holds a bunch of water but tends to rust easily on the outside if in a bilge, and they are a little pricey. The racors filter work good, but cost a quite a bit more, because they cost more, most people just keep draining them rather than replacing them, the internals of a racor filter will rust at the top of the element if its had water in it, if you get a racor full of water, replace it, don’t try to reuse it.If you’ve ever tried to replace a racor while at sea, it can be a bit daunting, unless you have another rigged up with the bowl already. If you use the plastic bowl, they get fogged up after a while, you can’t tell if its gas or water once they get some age on them. The drain seal on the plastic bowl need to be changed often as well, they tend to leak once they get some age on them. I recomend just using a 10 micron standard size spin on metal element(Siera works fine), keep a spare filter in a plastic coffee can, if you have to swap out the filter at sea, you can put the old filter in the can and put the lid on it to prevent spilling it. If you want to see if had water in it, you can pour it into the can and inspect it. I’d rather have a couple new spare filters than just one with a drain
I thought just the replacement racor element was cheaper than the metal yamaha big blue one?
paul
what happens if you get water in the system before the 50 hours, and you cant tell that your filter is full?
thats teh only reason i like the racor
they dont do any better of a job filtering, they just allow you to see a problem before it becomes a problem
and i also suggest carrying a spare cheap disposable filter in the boat