Cost for mulching forrest area

Anyone got an idea what it costs for someone to do some mulching in order to clear out an area of some of the underbrush, etc???

Never been down this road, so let me know if any?? And Thanks in advance!


My neighbor is having some done. Guy is mulching, digging up roots & stumps, and leveling it back off for $900 a day.

[navy]Sportsman Masters 207 Yamaha F150[/navy]

Thanks, this is for some property for hunting, and at this point I’m looking at thinning some areas for access and visibility.

Will be first time for us having our own hunting property. Has a big bottom, flowing creek going thru it, and the top section, if that makes sense, had the pines harvested about 15 years ago.

So plenty of thick stuff I wanna get thinned.

This is actually a portion of property that was broken off from a much larger portion. So, some of the old access roads will not be accessible. They are mulching and 8’ wide perimeter around the new property lines this week. Also giving an access point to enter.
Contract was signed today (my side only)with a Stip of them mulching the access point a few hundred feet in.

Anyway, it’s 85 acres and all of the family is jacked up!!


Thats awesome. The water is a big plus too.

Do you have hogs yet?

Ryan Bishop is a straight up dude and understands a variety of land uses. Not sure his pricing though. Give him a call and get an estimate?

Rusty Davis used to meddle with some of it… 1-843-909-3322

I’m thinking the 900 a day is a good price. I’m thinking in the $150 an hour range? The dang teeth for most mulching heads are so expensive. In the areas you want to open up, I’d walk them good and flag any acorn Trees. Flag them as high as you can reach so the operator can see it. I’d get feeders out as quick as possible and keep em going all year then get plenty of cameras so you will know what you have and were activity is. Good luck and Happy Hunting!

On the flowing creek, make sure it has water in dry weather. If not maybe dig a hole that will hold water for the deer.

Step #1: a 40-50hp tractor.

I’d love to come see it sometime DoubleN. I’ve learned a lot over the years. Working the land into what you want it to be is the most fun part of it.

“Another poon dream splintered on the rocks of reality.” --Peepod 07-25-2017

And yes, do not remove any acorn bearing trees if you can help it. There’s no reason to remove a food source.

I had 20 acres timbered and that’s the best advice I ever got. I have oaks standing throughout.

“Another poon dream splintered on the rocks of reality.” --Peepod 07-25-2017

Thanks all for the helpful advice. Saw some hog sign, but not fresh. Have yet to walk it in great detail. Couple of local folks here have given me names for getting the mulching done. Fred, your estimate sounds like it should be close.

Ricky, maybe we can make that happen.

The seller signed off agreeing to mulch in an access point Thursday while doing perimeter. Once I hire one for the rest of the mulching, shooting range, feeders and couple more cameras are on the agenda.

Planning close in 21days or less.


Get on Google Earth and get an idea of what you are working with. Then sketch your ideas over that satellite image to try and figure out what you want to do and where. It certainly helped me figure out what I wanted to do with my place.

“Another poon dream splintered on the rocks of reality.” --Peepod 07-25-2017

Agree, already printed out some good sized maps on a plotter. Gonna be flagging as Fred mentioned and pinning some areas on phone.


Labor of Love! I mention checking the area in extreme dry weather, Right now may be a good time to walk it for extreme wet weather to determine road access and areas that may need a little ditch work, culverts, and road build up areas.

That’s good advice there. Work with the land, not against it.

I also would not trust your phone too terribly much. Pins can jump all over the place with tree canopy blocking signal. If anything, use a real handheld GPS if accuracy is important. From my phone to yours, those pins can be off 100’ or more.

“Another poon dream splintered on the rocks of reality.” --Peepod 07-25-2017

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Thanks again and agree with advice given.

Stopped by Kubota place yesterday just to see what they had, and really don’t know much about tractors, as haven’t driven one in 30 plus years, but like the 2501. Then when I got home looked up on YouTube of that model bush hogging with one and seemed to get dogged down.

I know that’s why Ricky mentioned the 40-50HP.

Just got off phone with friend and agrees with the higher HP. I asked about geared vs HST, and he said HST. What y’all think?

Planning for 5’ bush hog and scrape blade…for now. Do wanna look into Mahindra as well.

Will be talking with more, but appreciate the input.


Sounds like you got it going on Glenn. Be sure and post some pics (if the site lets you) when you get it done.

"Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It's Hand", but really, who cares?

Thanks, Doug!

I get excited about stuff like this and tend to put the cart in front of the horse at times…


Dad’s last tractor was a Kubota, but I run his old John Deere when I’m cutting moms walking paths. Kubota makes a good tractor and this one is a cabbed unit and Hydrostatic drive. I dislike the noise and have to turn the radio up super loud just to hear it over the trans noise.

If you are going to be doing a lot of back and forth movements the Hydrostatic is much more fluid than a manual… But for long term use I don’t think you can beat a manual transmission and usually a tad cheaper.

Don’t get in a Rush! Keep an eye out for package deals ( Trailer and a few implements ) and play the field from varying dealers letting them know you are not specific or “honor” bound to a certain brand.

Maybe check Walterboro Cat store, they are going to do away with the New Holland line and might be making deals?? Ryan WhiteHead is the dude to talk to. 864-909-1649. Also maybe Ricky can chime in, he may have a connection with the John Deere Place in Ravenel.

Random things coming to mind. Don’t rule out an enclosed cab, might not be much more money and a/c is nice. But remember with a cab you have a lot of glass to look out for if doing underbrushing / bush hog work around low limbs and such.

Ask 10 people and you’ll probably get 8 different answers.

Yeah, my best bud runs the Sparrow and Kennedy dealerships. I would certainly go see him in Ravenel first, or at least give him a call and tell him what you are looking for. I’ll text you his number. He’ll even look out for a used tractor for you and call when one’s available…if you have the time to wait.

I bought a 30 year old manual JD and I love it. It certainly doesn’t have all the creature comforts of the brand new ones, but I don’t need A/C and radio on a tractor. :smiley:

Buy used and you can save 10,000 or more. Tractors are tough and built to last. As far as implements, you can really clean up by going to some farm auctions; they have them all over the place. You can typically buy used implements for about half of retail depending on condition. Its not like a dealership is going to give you a warranty on implements, so it doesn’t matter if you buy new or not.

For 85 acres, I would look at a 40-50hp tractor. 4wheel drive is very nice, but certainly not a requirement. If you go used, make sure you inspect the tires well. Those rear tires are VERY expensive. Check for hydraulic hose leaks. It’ll be obvious. Check that the PTO shaft splines look good and aren’t all chipped up and broken. Ensure that the PTO shaft spins evenly when engaged; you don’t want to see it wobbling.

Implements you’ll need first: 5’-6’ disc harrow and a 5’ bush hog.

Box blades are nice for smoothing trails/roads. I don’t think you’ll really need a scrape blade unless you have lots of road work, but you can do similar things with a box blade. Just get one or the other depending on what you think you’ll be doing most. Youtube videos are a wealth of information on how to use implements. I’ve learned alot about smoothing/grading by watching those videos along with trial and error.

[i][b]"Another poon dream splintered on the

And if a tractor is getting slowed by heavy brush while bush hogging, that’s way underpowered. What you really need the extra HP for is discing your future food plots. Dragging 500 lbs through unbroken ground requires lots of low end torque. Personally its why I like the manual transmission over the hydrostatic. Hydros are very nice, but I can set my gear, shift to my rpm range and then I just have to steer. To run my disc, I set mine at 1 and 4 speed, then my rpms to PTO range. Set it and forget it. To me, its simpler and easier to control.

This is straight from JD:

If your tractor will be primarily used for lawn and garden chores or with attachments that don’t require consistent speed, a hydrostatic transmission tractor may be the best choice and offers a variety of benefits.

Easy to operate – simplified high-to-low lever to shift, no clutch to depress.
Infinitely variable speed – adjust the forward speed from 0 to Full using the single control lever.
Quick to stop in an emergency.
Compact in size – no gearbox means the hydrostatic transmission is much smaller in comparison.
Applies torque smoothly and efficiently.
More effective for front end loader work and landscaping tasks

For larger properties or properties with rougher terrain where you plan to do work that requires a steady speed, like tilling, for example, a manual transmission is your best bet.

Ideal for heavy-duty hauling applications.
More effective for plowing, tilling, and other ground engagement work.
Higher PTO HP output relative to engine HP.

“Another poon dream splintered on the rocks of reality.” --Peepod 07-25-2017

Have you considered a flail mower? Here’s a good comparison video worth a look where the guy is working in an area of grass and brush at different growth stages

Back on the farm we switched from bush hogs to flail mowers for stalk chopping sure helped getting away from the wind row effects

Pretty neat video Bay. DoubleN, watch that video and listen to the high pitch whine of the hydrostatic drive as it gets a bit of a load on it. That’s what I hate about dads tractor.

Good follow up from 23sail. No need to be disappointed with too small a tractor. I certainly agree with 50+ hp.