I have been making my own trolling rigs for 2 years now… was watching tv the other day and caught the end of a guy talking about proper crimping and realized that I may or may not be doing it right… On the crimping tool there is a crimp section with a sharp point and a crimp section with a blunt point… is one for single sleeves and one for double sleeves and if so, which is which… I have not had a rig fail but i would like to know if I am doing it right so I don’t lose that big one
20’ Proline Sport
Put me anywhere up to and including 1 mile of Bin Laden with a clear line of sight… Bang Boom, wars over, the troops are coming home
Not sure why no one responded (I think some people are shy about what might be perceived as novice questions and answers), but I find nothing wrong with your question, and I’ll happily answer you because I’ve been making leaders since about 1985 without a single crimp failure and like to help new-comers to the offshore sport. 
There are two different kinds of crimp tools–one with c-shaped grooves on both sides, and one with a tooth, dimple, or blunt nub in one side of the groove. I don’t/wouldn’t use the kind you’re talking about on mono, personally (i.e. the toothed/dimpled one). I’d use that on small-guage braided wire, but not mono. On mono, I use the kind with the c-shaped groves on both sides–not the one with the tooth or nub–and I recommend that you use one with calibrated groves for the matching mono crimps. Match the grove size with the crimp size (they are labeled), and match that with the line size. That way, you really can’t go wrong. The c-shaped groves make the crimp effective in mono by compression without taking the risk of damaging the mono with a tooth or pointed indention, and the calibrations keep you from damaging it by overcrimping. I’ve always looked at the other (toothed) kind as better for the small-gauged braided wire (not sure if that is the intended purpose or not, but I’ve always thought it was). I suppose the toothed/nubbed ones can be used on mono if sized and used properly (by placing the tooth in between the leads, instead of on one of them), but the other kind is much better for mono, IMO.
In short, get you one of these, use the calibrations as directed, and you’re good to go.
{Edited for typos and spelling errors.}
Gotcha Covered,
Lee Strickland
Strickland Marine Insurance, Inc.
843-795-1000 / 800-446-1862
thanks…just what I needed… I will be heading out to by that tool
20’ Proline Sport
Put me anywhere up to and including 1 mile of Bin Laden with a clear line of sight… Bang Boom, wars over, the troops are coming home
And where do you make the crimp in single sleeves for mono? And how many? Does anyone really avoid the ends for fear of damaging the line?
I only use double sleeve for mono and yes it is best to avoid the ends. If you are like me you will go one step further and make sure there is no burrs on the inside of the crimp. If so, I deburr it with the tip of a sharp knife.
Iain Pelto
Edgewater 185CC “Jumpin’ Bean II”
Native Manta Ray 14
Glad I could help, Sniper.
Sitck, I use the double-barrel sleeves and prefer them, but the oval-shaped single sleeves are fine too. I make two crimps per sleeve on the 1.3’s and 1.6’s, leaving a little space in between them and a little space between the edge of each crimp and the ends of the sleeve (yes, avoid the ends). I do think that it can definitely damage the line if you crimp the ends of the sleeves, so I avoid them. With larger mono (300-400) (and the larger sleeves) you can make 3-4 crimps per sleeve. If I’m making a pin rig, I make sure the pin is inserted on the tag end so it doesn’t press into the mainline, compromising it. Choosing the right size of crimp for the line and the right size groove in the tool for the crimp is the most important part.
Gotcha Covered,
Lee Strickland
Strickland Marine Insurance, Inc.
843-795-1000 / 800-446-1862
If double sleeve, multiple crimps, you must be crimping perpendicular to the crimp long axis. Anyone crimp in the groove between the two lines instead of across them (? less line damage)?
Crimp with one line/barrel on top of the other, not in the groove.
EDIT For Clarity: When I say “not in the groove”, that means "not in the groove between the barrels, as you pictured in your question. Place both barrels in the c-shaped/cup/shaped grooves in the two sides of the the tool jaws, with one line being squeezed on top of the other. Don’t crimp the sleeve on the flat or in the groove between the lines. That is the improper/unintended use of the crimp tool. The crimp is going to be perpendicular to the axis, regardless.
Gotcha Covered,
Lee Strickland
Strickland Marine Insurance, Inc.
843-795-1000 / 800-446-1862
I crimp the way Gotcha described and use flouro leader.No failures,but I am very careful.
“Modern day Robin Hoodism-Steal from the sucessful and give to the poorly motivated.”
I use 130# flouro leader, but with the lack of yellowfin in the area for several years now, I’m thinking of going back to regular mono (or possibly even wire 
).
Here’s another tip, Sniper. I do this to make a firm connection and avoid damaging the main line at the hook terminal:
When you make a pin rig, use two crimp sleeves at the hook terminal–one 1.3 and one 1.6. Place the 1.6 on the line first, then the 1.3. Slide them both up the main line 4 or 5 inches, being careful not to scrape the line with the edges of the barrels. Put the tag end of the leader through the hook eye from the point side of the hook and bring the tag end to the back side of the hook, so that the point is facing down, and the back of the hook is facing up, with the tag end of the leader coming straight up through the hole and bending back toward the main line. Pinch the tag and main together, with the tag on top, and slide the crimp sleeves down over them together. Now, you’ll notice that the forward crimp sleeve (the 1.6–farthest from the hook) is a little bigger than the crimp sleeve closest to the hook (the 1.3). That’s on purpose because the larger one is going to need that little bit of extra space to accomodate the pin. The 1.3 is the one holding the primary connection, and the 1.6 is holding the pin, and adding some help to the connection too. I use a 3-inch piece of SS wire around 125# or so. Crimp the smaller, 1.3 sleeve at this time, but not the 1.6. After crimping the sleeve closest to the hook, with the 1.6 in proper position, insert the pin into the 1.6 sleeve on the tag side (back side of the hook with the pin in the hole on the back side of the tag end of the line). We’re putting the pin on the tag side because, when you crimp it, the pin can bite into the line, and we don’t care if it bites into the tag, but biting into the main could cause a leader failure. Crimp the 1.6, holding the pin where it should be. Then, bend the pin perpendicular to the main line and cut it down to size (I leave mine a l
P.S., When you insert the pin (the 3" piece of SS wire) into the 1.6 sleeve, make sure it goes in the whole length of the 1.6 so it doesn’t come out easily and cause you to have to recrimp before you should have to.
Gotcha Covered,
Lee Strickland
Strickland Marine Insurance, Inc.
843-795-1000 / 800-446-1862