All,
I usually keep my boat in storage at a place on James Island. It’s very convenient to be able to just hook it up and go when I’m coming down from Charlotte, as I’m usually pressed for time. However, I’d like to pull it back to Charlotte with me so I can do some odds and ends. My question is this: what are some basic-to-intermediate improvements I can do to my rig? I cleaned up the wiring last time I brought it home but it’s still not how I want it. So besides this, what other projects should I be thinking about? As usual, thanks in advance for your ■■■■■■■■.
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
What kind of boat, make, model and outboard type/size. I know some people are familiar with it, but most probably are not.
'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki
Check your plumbing and replace. By this I mean bilge and live well plumbing Thru hole fittings, pumps as needed etc.
Trailer junk…bunks, brackets,winch line, etc
Fuel lines…when did you replace last and how about the fuel/water thingie?
Running lights are nice to have working and require little up keep.
Under gunwale lighting is a nice add for those dark mornings as you try to drink coffee and tie Riggs.
Last but not least why not detail your vessel? Woody wax the rails, clean the hatches and bilge areas. Wax the hull.
big dog
Check your trailer, hubs, bearings, etc…
How’s your impeller?
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
Thanks, fellas. Tiger, it’s a 2002 Florida Skiff 17’2" made by American Marine Sports. AMS is the same company that makes Shearwater and Sterling. The Florida Skiff was their entry-level line.
It has a casting platform on the bow and a poling platform on the rear, as well as a 55LB. thrust Minn Kota Riptide trolling motor.
Any other ideas?
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Marine-Metal-Aeration-System-Power-Bubbles-B-15/20753300?sourceid=1500000000000003260410
I put one of these on my boat. It really helps keep bait alive. Put one hose in each livewell and ran all hoses under the deck and through the wall of the livewell at the top above the waterline with a bulkhead fitting and sealed with silicone. Ran power from a switch on the dash so I can turn it on any time and it won’t kill the battery. I keep shrimp and mm alive for a whole week every summer and pump in fresh(new) water every day while fishing. This keeps the bait oxygenated while the boat is on the trailer and I can’t pump in new water.
'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki
quote:
Originally posted by DFreedom
Check your trailer, hubs, bearings, etc…
How’s your impeller?
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
Uh, not sure. How do I check? Again, pardon my ignorance…
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
Buddy bearings on your trailer hubs… and they need to be serviced every year minimum if you are in/out of saltwater often. “D” rated tires? LED deck lights? Bait Tank?
Kodiak Red Eye bearing protectors and stainless steel valve stems
“If you had to tell someone how good you are, then you probably aren’t that good”
02 Carolina Skiff 175 RG Honda 90 -
I know you aren’t going near as far but, I haul down to the Keys once or twice a year. I check all nuts/bolts, inspect winch strap and safety chain and check all lights. In the Spring, I repack my bearings and put in new seals (yes, probably overkill but, for an hours worth of work and $15 I have peace of mind). If you don’t have an axle with grease fittings on the end and no Buddy Bearings, get some. Have a good spare and I also carry an extra hub with new bearings already packed. Believe it or not, I had to change out a hub in Florida a few years ago. Took 20 minutes. Would have taken a lot longer if I had not had a spare.
If the water pump (impeller) hasn’t been done in a while, you may consider doing that as well. New oil in the lower unit, new plugs, etc. It sucks to haul a boat from inland (I do it) only to have a problem when you get on the water. None of this is really expensive.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”.
Replace winch strap on trailer. They dry rot and fail at the worst time.
Install a washdown pump to keep your deck clean while fishing. 5GPM at 50PSI min.
Polish all metal.
repair scratches on bottom of hull.
clean out water pickups, scuppers, and through hull fittings.
Polish windshield.
Top off steering fluid.
Replace fuel lines.
Wax motor couling. multiple layers.
check/replace caulk around CC
Add rodholders ( you can never have neough rodholders)
Check/adjust transducer
patch/repair gel coat or fiberglass
Pull anchor and all line out, clean line well, retie bitter end.
Remove batteries, clean trays, clean battery and terminals. reinstall using terminal goop.
install mounted battery charger with easy access 120v plug.
Install VHF radio and antenna.
Create a tool kit for the boat. Tape, 5200, zipties, wrenches, cutters, screwdrivers, hammer, etc…
Create safety/survival kit.
Clean or replace PFD’s.
Organize your storage spaces.
Purchase your motors service manual (not the owners manual). Learn your motor.
Remove the prop, remove the washers and such. Check for fishing line or anything that could have wrapped around the shaft. Wipe down with rag. grease shaft and replace washers and prop. Replace cotter pin. Keep a few cotterpins on board along with a wrench/socket and a spare prop.
That should keep you busy for a little while.
The most important things from already mentioned above:
- change lower unit oil every year, replace drain plug seals every time (couple dollars) to be sure of no leaks there. You don’t want water coming in or oil going out
- water pump impeller
- spark plugs, my manual says every 50 hours but that is probably overkill
- fuel water separator, I put on a new filter every year ($20)
- grease hubs on trailer regularly, esp before a long tow
- I like to spray my o/b powerhead down lightly with CRC 656 (hi tech WD40) it seems to keep it looking new and thwarts corrosion from salt…works well on trailer hitch and anything else you want to protect/keep lubed
- marine stabil added to fuel and I like sea foam for a little protection from carbon buildup
- Your motor should have some grease fittings around the steering tube…hit those with the grease gun too
- check air pressure in trailer tires
It ain’t no mystery…this beer’s history!
Good stuff, y’all. All your collective ■■■■■■■■ should make for a decent-sized list.
What about an onboard charger and/or Perko switch? I have two batteries, one for the 12-volt 55lb. trolling motor, and one for the starter and other accessories. What do I need?
“I’m not a hundred percent in love with your tone right now…”
You need a 2 bank on-board charger and an on-off perko switch for the cranking battery. Always turn off the switch and unplug the TM before charging and you’ll never have a problem until the batteries finally wear out.
'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki