I’ve just serviced my Suzuki DF50 on my own for the first time and was surprised at the amount of salt buildup around the waterpump and thermostat. This is my first time pulling an engine apart, so I don’t have any comparison as to what is acceptable.
Anyway, it led me to this question; is it preferable to flush the engine by using “mouse ears” and cranking the engine as opposed to the built-in female hose connection? After every trip, I’ve hooked up the water hose and let it run for about 5 mins per the manual. I’m wondering if I could somehow be doing a better job of flushing the engine than my current method?
i use mouse ears on my DF150s every time after use. i figure this is how the salt gets into the engine, so this is the best way to clean it all out. there was a good bit of salt buildup around the thermostat, but not the impeller last time i took it apart. also there was salt caked around the zincs. made me a little paranoid, but looking in the zinc holes, it looked good, no rust or corrosion.
Try using a big barrel full of water with the foot in it,run it as long as you want and make sure you add water to the barrel,because the motor will suck it up and pump it out.
Double D.
First, make sure you run it long enough to allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature. I normally run mine at least 15 minutes. Second, always run it on the ears, not with the flush connection. That allows you to see if the water pump is working properly and like was said above, thats how it sucks in salt water, so thats how like to get it out. If I can I’ll take it to the lake and run it for a while.
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the best way to flush is a drum with salt away
the next is using the flush muffs and running the motor
if you cant run the motor, like you keep it in the water, then the flush adapter on the engine is the last resort.
when you run the engine, you are bringing it to operating temp and opening the t-stats
that doesn’t happen with the flush adapter
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Really great info guys. Thanks so much for the responses. I’ll be looking into setting up a drum.
quote:
Originally posted by chris V
the best way to flush is a drum with salt away
Got me a little baffled here…you pour salt away into the drum full of water?
BT, if you run it off the muffs as previously mentioned with the supply hose connected to a SaltAway dispenser, you will be good to go. You won’t waste that not so cheap Salt Away either.
NN
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YES
for the best engine flush, pour salt away in the drum and let it run for 15-20 minutes
keep a watch on the water temp in the drum, as the exhaust will heat the water
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Didn’t someone post awhile back to put vinegar in barrel of
water to help dissolve solids and rinse???
just thinking
out loud!!!
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NN… thanks for the dispenser tip. I will look into getting one.
Chris V… if i went with the drum approach, is there a mixture ratio that you shoot for?
ounce per gallon of water for routine rinse
couple times a year, do a clean out at 4-6 ounces per gallon
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I have heard that with Yamahas new 4-strokes you are not supposed to run these engines on the muffs. Only way to rinse is on the connector or in a drum. Chris V, can you confirm or deny?
quote:
Originally posted by Half-hitched
I have heard that with Yamahas new 4-strokes you are not supposed to run these engines on the muffs. Only way to rinse is on the connector or in a drum. Chris V, can you confirm or deny?
HH, I just purchased a new boat with F150 last weekend and the owners manual says it is fine to run on the muffs.
NN
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Vinegar flush works great. I’ve done it many times and I’ll keep doing it to my motors. No sense in buying the expensive stuff for me.
Muffs don’t allow for back pressure on the exhaust like you get when the motor is submerged. They’re also really loud.
I always use a barrel to flush. Easy to make and handy as hell. Lay the barrel on the ground and roll it while pushing a circular saw across it. I usually follow a seam in the barrel that’s about 2/3 of the way up the side instead of measuring and marking. A cordless trim saw works great to make the cut and you’ll be done in about a minute. Skip the jig saw and sawzall as the up down cutting motion gets the plastic jumping around and it’s a lot more work than you need to spend on the job. To finish drill a hole in the side at the bottom just big enough for a bilge plug for easy draining.
And you’re good to go. Just keep a running hose in the barrel when you’re running your motor. You can lose water fast from the engine pisser and you want to keep the water cool. The exhaust can heat the water up pretty quick.
quote:
Originally posted by Half-hitched
I have heard that with Yamahas new 4-strokes you are not supposed to run these engines on the muffs. Only way to rinse is on the connector or in a drum. Chris V, can you confirm or deny?
this is not accurate
Yamaha says not to run the engine on the flush adapter that is on the side of the motor.
some motors have a low water pick-up, if you have a low water pick-up, you have to work around that to use the muffs. cover the low water pickup with duct tape and then use the muffs normally. if you don’t the engine will not be able to pull water, and it will overheat,
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