I have a loadmaster trailer that tows a 17’ center console. I’m in the process of replacing the axle and leaf springs. My intention is to do the work myself, but the one hesitation I have is not having the right tool in the event that the leaf springs need to have tension on them while installing. Does anyone have experience with this and know if the proper size leaf springs will line up and bolt on, or if they will need tension put on them first? Thanks in advance
no tension during install
pretty straight forward repair.
jack up the trailer, and support on stands.
remove both wheels
remove axle from springs
remove springs from trailer
springs will easily fit on trailer with no tension or issues, if you use the proper springs.
install new springs
replace axle and wheels.
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www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
An acetylene torch would be a valuable tool to have while doing the job.
Just saying.
ZX
I’ve done it a couple of times, dirt simple if you have any mechanical skills. Ditto above and maybe even an angle grinder for rusted on stuff.
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
quote:I like torches :smiley:Especially with oxygen
Originally posted by tanksgtAn acetylene torch would be a valuable tool to have while doing the job.
Just saying.ZX
Wait till it cools off a little bit more.
17’ Mako //90hp Mercury
16’ Alumacraft // 20hp Yamaha
14’ War Eagle // 9.8hp Tohatsu
17’ Key West // 90hp Yamaha
I have done it more times than I care to think of. Great advice given here already. If you can remove boat and leave in the water it helps but not critical. Angle grinder to cut bolts everything else is all hand tools except jack and stands. Since you are replacing axel and springs no need to disassemble old set up, just remove bolts from spring hangers and drop whole assembly. Most of the local shops sell axel
With hubs as a package, not much cost added for new galvanized hubs so probably worth getting entire new set up if your stuff is that far gone. Just give shop center eye to center eye length and leaf count/rating and they should be able to match your existing springs w/o a problem. Pay attention to the axel position as well some sit on top others below springs just make sure you put back together same as current set up.
Sawzall is also a good tool for the job
1966 13’ Boston Whaler “Flatty”
2018 Sportsman Masters 207
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As others have said, not hard at all. I don’t have any skills more than your run-of-the mill driveway mechanic and no special tools. I did what others said. Except I had to lift up the boat off the trailer first resting it on block/wood. THat was the hardest part. I cut off the old springs with a grinding wheel, took them to the trailer shop in Mt. P. they had the replacement parts. Brought them home and installed them, lowered the boat back onto the trailer and voila, new springs/axles/hubs, no problem. It was scary, for me, lifting and replacing the boat on the trailer.
quote:
Originally posted by ScreamingdragWait till it cools off a little bit more.
17’ Mako //90hp Mercury
16’ Alumacraft // 20hp Yamaha
14’ War Eagle // 9.8hp Tohatsu
17’ Key West // 90hp Yamaha
LOL, maybe the best advice given. 
Our mornings are cooling off, but dang if I didn’t sweat a bunch this afternoon.
Remember not to over torque your spring shackles and U bolts… shackles need to be able to move…
I leave the wheels and tires on the axle when I cut the spring bolts with a sawsall and just roll the whole thing out, reinstall the wheels to the new axle and roll it back in, bolt one end the let off on the jack slowly till the other bolts line up, piece of work!
See this:
https://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/leafsprings/
Fishing the beaches, Bays & Ocean of Wildwood/Cape May, NJ
Soon a resident of Georgetown, SC
You can get springs all over charleston. Iron Knight has coated springs available. Put some anti-seize on your bolts when putting it back together. Rebuilding a trailer is not hard if you are somewhat mechanically inclined.
21 Contender
putting a 2’ cheater bar on your ratchet will easily break any bolts if you don’t have a grinder/sawsall handy.
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I appreciate all the advice/info from everyone. Going to order the parts and get it done in the next couple weeks. Thanks again, this is a great resource for novices like me!
Buying a $15 angle grinder from harbor freight was one of the best investments I ever made, especially for trailer work. Good advice already given, my 2 cents is to take pictures on your phone of your trailer hardware and how it is positioned prior to removing anything. It is a quick, free reference as you put the new parts back on.