I had the tank drained about a month ago. Filled it up (added Stabil) and it ran fine for 4 outings. Put gas in it on Wednesday. Put it in Thursday and it ran fine for about 1 mile, then it started to bog down. Just like it had bad gas in it. No hole shot and bogs down at full throttle.
It looks like the gas is good. This it what it looked like after sitting all night.
I smelled the gas and it smelled nasty. But it is treated with Stabil, so I smelled the lawnmower gas (also treated)and it smelled the same.
So now what? What else would cause the motor to bog down?
How do I remove the engine filter?
I checked the plugs. all looked like this:
But the #1 plug looked like this:
I started a new topic since the original was about gas
You can use a pair of channel locks and cover the black plastic nut at the top of the bowl with a rag. Be careful because it will mess it up if you’re not easy with it. The dealers have a tool for it but you can get by without it. As for the plugs, get new ones every year as a good rule of thumb. Looks like the top injector may be clogged or not getting fuel due to filter being clogged. Go ahead and replace your plugs and be careful when you put that filter bowl back on, all parts are plastic and will crossthread or strip out easily.
I looked at the parts list and it looks like the black plastic nut turns and holds the filter up. So loosen the nut and the filter and the nut will come off.
What should I be looking for in that filter? or should I simple replace it.
Fishb8 (Fish Bait)
23 Sea Hunt “My Last Boat V”
If you can’t stand behind our soldiers, try standing in front of them.
Just replace the parts inside, filter screen, orings. My recommendation, use Yamaha parts, not aftermarket. You get what you pay for. There should be a kit for replacement.
One thing I forgot to say. I ran the boat without the cover on it. And I could see fuel dripping into the filter. Is that normal? Should I be able to see it?
Fishb8 (Fish Bait)
23 Sea Hunt “My Last Boat V”
If you can’t stand behind our soldiers, try standing in front of them.
fishb8
that #1 plug is running very rich, and the others look to be to lean.
there are 2 other filters after that one, and each injector has a filter.
unless someone has removed it, there is a locking tab that needs to be loosened before trying to remove the black plastic nut.
also, dont be surprised if you cant get the nut back on after you remove it. ethanol fuel causes the plastic to swell.
sometimes you can leave them in the sun for a day or 2 and they “de-gas” other times, you have to replace the assembly $100
chances are replaceing that filter andplugs isnt going to fix your problem
your are probably going to have to have the injection system cleaned
The filter you sent a picture of has a red float in the bottom and if water gets into the system, this will float up above the water.
The injectors are a plastic 2-3" piece between the fuel rail and the block. They have a plug connected to each of them. My F150 has 4 cylinders and 4 fuel injectors. I pulled my injectors last summer and sent them to a diesel shop in Miami. I think you can have someone locally perform this service. To clean the injector you have to spray cleaner / blow air through the injector and give it a bit of electricity to open. I paid $25 / injector.
I think there are also some other fuel filters in the motor that are less common to find / harder to change. What year motor and how many hours does it have?
It may be time for… a dealer service. My motor is an '04 and its just shy of 500hrs. Once I hit 500 its going in for a proper maintenance treatment. Yamaha dealers can change all the filters and run a diagnostic to see if anything isn’t good.
I cleaned my injectors because I was having hesitation from idle to speed. It would idle fine & run fine, but just that 2 seconds when you give some gas there was a stutter. The final straw was when it stalled once docking and i came in a bit heavy.
The injector cleaning helped for a few trips. Then the hesitation came back some. It’s nowhere near what it used to be.
A simpler solution might be Sea Foam. I put 4 bottles in my full fuel tank and cruised up to Buck Hall this spring.
It got the 100 hours service on May of last year. I have used it 6 times since that service. only run 30 gallons in the 4 outings since the tank was drained.
I might try the sea foam and the 2 filters and plugs first. Maybe the vst filter, but I think that will be way more involved.
I have no problem paying to have it fixed, but at the same time I hate paying for something I can do myself.
Fishb8 (Fish Bait)
23 Sea Hunt “My Last Boat V”
If you can’t stand behind our soldiers, try standing in front of them.
What would cause just the #1 plug to run rich?
As I’m thinking this through I find it difficult to understand how a clogged filter could cause 1 plug to run rich.
Fishb8 (Fish Bait)
23 Sea Hunt “My Last Boat V”
If you can’t stand behind our soldiers, try standing in front of them.
My F225 bogged down and first had to replace (pardon any inccorect mechanic terminolgoy) the fuel lift pump and then round two replaced the VST filter, did the trick. VST is a very small screen filter before the injectors as I understand it, fairly deep into the engine. Everything re-worked save the injectors. Runs great now. New lift pump was very expensive part. 10% Ethanol sucks. Very small debris was blocking VST. If you are not a pro, pay for one to do it. You don’t want to be feeding bad fuel and debris to a nice motor that big for long…
What would cause just the #1 plug to run rich?
As I’m thinking this through I find it difficult to understand how a clogged filter could cause 1 plug to run rich.
Fishb8 (Fish Bait)
23 Sea Hunt “My Last Boat V”
If you can’t stand behind our soldiers, try standing in front of them.
You need to take the motor to a Yamaha service center and plug it into YDS on a laptop while your key is on. The engine’s ECM will tell the YDS program what codes and sensor faults have been left in its memory. They can crank your engine and while it’s running the YDS will show exactly what’s going on with each injector and the cylinder temps. Those are the most likely causes of lean/rich states in individual cylinders. Save yourself a bunch of time and money and take it into somebody to run the diagnostic software on it and know where to start attacking your problem. Check your PM’s.
