Ran boat yesterday to get the family on the water for a bit. Ran boat about 3/4 throttle for about 20-minutes and then slowed down to go through Wappoo Cut. Had boat just in gear putting along for about 45-minutes and heat alarm went off. Checked water coming out of tell tale and it was cool. Shut motor off and recranked no buzzer. Went another 15 minutes or so just in gear and buzzer sounded again. Shut motor down and recranked and buzzer starting go off within a couple minutes. Shut off, recranked and gave it a little more throttle “just past in gear” and no buzzer for the rest of the day. Even ran hard on way home and slowed down and idled around the ramp for about 10-minutes without buzzer. Water pump was just replaced within the last 100 to 150 hours. Motor since brand new has always had a weak stream at idle but I am told this is normal for this year and model. Could this be a bad sensor? Could this be the first signs of the exhaust corrosion issues some of these motors have? Water pump? Seems weird to me that it would buzz at idle but not buzz after running hard and then slowing to an idle?
Exactly what happened when the corrosion got bad in my dad’s 2002 f200.
Flats Aficiando
sounds like exhaust corrosion, but could also be weak water pump, sticking pressure relief valve, etc.
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Ouch, worried it might be that exhaust issue. Think that about a $2k repair. Anyone else with input?
Could be a poppet valve going bad. Had same problem with twin f 225’s. Run all day with no alarms and then at idol or barely any throttle and alarms would go off. Both motors had already had exhaust corrosion fixed before this as well.
Just reel or get broke
The easiest and cheapest thing to do would be to replace the water pump impeller and then run it a little while to see if it fixes the problem. If you swap it yourself, you’re only out a few dollars.
I went ahead and dropped it at the dealer yesterday. If I knew for certain it was the water pump I would’ve done it myself, same with the thermostat, I don’t know enough about how old the poppet and pressure relief valve’s work to troubleshoot and diagnose. Figured by the time I got in there and started doing parts changing myself I would probably come out ahead with a professional troubleshoot. Besides that I would rather have a trained eye to access the potential for a corrosion issue when they drop the foot for the water pump. I will report back when I get the professional diagnosis so others know.
When your boats in gear sometimes there will not be enough pressure to relieve poppit valve. It looks like a little rubber mushroom with a spring. It works like a thermostat but is another redundant way of cooling your boat. That’s why the alarm goes off when your moving. Obviously the Impeller is the first line of defense and pressure is allowing water to fill your cooling passages fully when’ there is a bit of back pressure From Poppit .i like to allways check thermostats. The reason they want you to flush with earphones on is to allow the motor to get to temp (salt crystallization temp 170). that way the passages and manifold get fresh h20. Contender1 good call#128077;
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2270 Pursuit
I wanted to follow up with everyone on this. Problem has been professionally diagnosed. One of the thermostats was stuck in the open position the other was stuck in the closed position allowing one side of the block to cool properly while the other side was getting warm. Thermostats have been replaced and oil was changed due to the engine making oil due to temp differential across the block. Should be good to go now.
I had about the same problem with my old Yamaha V4 Thermostat clogged with salt deposit!
Glad it worked out for you
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