Seel’s will install a Yamaha 115 sometime next week on the SeaPro 180CC. When I get it back, I still have a seating problem. I have always had swivel chairs, and they are uncomfortable, so I have removed them (for now). The pedestals, however, are thru bolted, and they aren’t coming out without a lot of deck destruction.
I would like a leaning post and bench seat combo, but the only option I see is the Todd adjustable leaning post that uses the existing pedestals. They don’t have a seating option. Is there anybody in Charleston that could fabricate a leaning post and bench seat that would mount into my pedestals?
Just drill out the screws. Some will spin as they are mounted to toggle bolts under the deck, especially the last few. When this happens drive a wooden wedge under the base to stop the screws from spinning as you drill.
Also, you can drill another hole beside the screws (thru the bases at a 45 degree angle) and then put a nail or something like that against the stubborn toggle bolts to “foul” them and remove the screws. Once you get a few out you can use a saws-all, but be careful to not muck up the deck. Alternatively once you get a little wiggle room you can try an Oscillating Saw but again, be very mindful of the deck.
When the new leaning post or seats are installed you can fill the old holes with 5200 or something like that and put down a few pieces of sea deck to dress it up and your feet will thank you for the soft cushion covering the old bases.
I tried going thru the inspection port under the console to reach my bases too, my advice is don’t, lol.
I don’t know if I have the nerve to try that. I can see myself gouging out the deck with a sawzall going out of control. If- I get all the screws out by drilling them, will the pedestal just lift off the deck? Will I need the sawzall to get under the pedestal and cut screws? Is there any chance of getting the bolts to release with some penetrating oil and a stout impact wrench? Either way, they’ve got to go.
If you get the screws drilled, yes the pedestal will lift off, and the toggles will fall into the bilge where you will find them over the next few years.
I have a penetrating oil called Sili Kroil that is the best stuff I have ever used. I think I will apply that and let it sit for a day and then try to back out those screws with my pneumatic impact wrench. If they are fastened with toggles, then once they start to move, they should come out.
I’ve never heard of the Sili Kroil, looked it up on Amazon and will give it a try.
If you are “handy” and have the tools you could drill a pilot hole in the pedestals horizontally beside one or two of the screws, then a bigger one then a bigger one and then a bigger one (until you could fit a saws-all blade in that hole) and just cut the caps off the screws as you cut the soft aluminum pedestal. Think of Luke in that movie Cool Hand Luke with the parking meters.
Just a thought
either way in the end you’ll just have to be smarter than some japanese pock metal from just after Y2K, that’s all.
Like EF1, I had the same boat for about 5 years. His advice is spot on. I did the same. Drill out the bolts and the seats will lift out. It’s easier than you think, but buy a half dozen bits to be sure. I went to Clover Enterprises in Summerville, who does a lot of the welding for the local brands. They had exactly what I wanted in the showroom. That boat is better with a leaning post, but because it wasn’t designed for one, the wheel is kinda low when using it. No big deal though!
I am posting this on a kindle fire tablet, so my photos will come on a future post. Anyhow, Austin at Blackwater Welders did a great job building a t-top and leaning post on my 1996 Seapro 180CC. Now, i have to replace the windshield. Thoughts on who in Charleston fabricates custom windshields?
