Fasteners to Secure a Swim Platform

General Boats and Motors
1

I have a 96 Scout, 172. I am installing a swim platform on the left side on transom. Three of the screw/bolts will not go all the way thru the transom, I am looking for opinions to fasten these, I know they are some guys on here that have very good advice for these type things, any information would be great.

2

Buy some longer bolts :question:

Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper

3

I guess I worded it wrong, three of the screws will not be able to get a nut on.

4

Why?

Key West 2300 Bluewater

5

The top one is behind the live-well, so getting to it wont work

6

The top one is THE ONE that will be in tension when someone is on the platform. You really need to throughout that one. If you can’t get to the back of it, maybe a stainless toggle bolt? Fasteners on the platform and lower legs will be in shear, mostly.

17’ Henry O Hornet w/ Johnson 88 spl
26’ Palmer Scott project hull
14’ Bentz-Craft w/ Yamaha 25

7

What Palmer Scott said. The bottom legs are in compression and screws will work fine, but the top braces are in tension and really should be through bolted.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper

8

3/8" stainless toggle bolts are probably your best option IMO. Hanckels usually stocks them

2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
www.ralphphillipsinshore.com

9

Not sure if this suggestion is apropos but it you have NO POSSIBLE way to thru-bolt and have to go with a screw instead, I suggest this.

Materials needed:

a) strongest two-part epoxy that you can find that will give you a minimum of 20 minutes of working time
b) a release agent such as Johnson’s original paste wax for wooden floors. Some guys use car wax. I have also used pure carnauba wax.
c) lacquer thinner
d) vinegar
e) Q-tips
f) wooden popsicle stick
G) scotch tape

Instructions:

  1. First start out by cleaning the original screw hole thoroughly several times with lacquer thinner, allowing to dry several hours in between to insure that all water is evaporated and any other contaminants remaining are “de-greased” so to speak.
  2. Prepare the screw by cleaning thoroughly with the lacquer thinner and then applying the release agent in a THIN coat with a q-tip - allow to dry and apply second THIN coat. Set aside to dry.
  3. Smear a thick coat of wax on the boat hull service all around the screw hole but be careful not to get any in or on the rim of the hole.
  4. Apply wax to the back of the ladder frame where the screw hole is.
  5. Take the popsicle stick and a carve one end down to width small enough to fit loosely in the screw hole.
  6. Mix up the epoxy. Use the stick to work the epoxy down in the hole until you can not get anymore in and it. IF THE SURFACE IS VERTICAL AND THE EPOXY ‘WANTS’ DRIP OUT, APPLY A PIECE OF SCOTCH TAPE ACROSS THE HOLE.
  7. Mount your step back on the hull and fasten all the THRU-BOLTS first.
  8. Slowly insert and tighten the ‘waxed’ screw (through the scotch tape). IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN. IF THE ORIGINAL HOLE WAS ‘STRIPPED’, JUST ENSURE THAT THE SCREW IS BOTTOMED OUT.
  9. It may be difficult to see but use q-tips dipped in vinegar to clean up any epoxy that may have been forced out and is on the hull or ladder frame.
  10. Allow to FULLY cure and harden as per the epoxy instructions.
  11. When cured you should be able to back out and/or re-tighten the scr
10

Thanks for all the suggestions