My fuel gauge stopped working. Not sure if the gauge is bad or the sending unit. Is there a way to test each? The gauge reads 1/8 of a tank no matter how much fuel is in the boat.
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I used this thread: http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/230281-how-do-you-test-fuel-gauge-vs-sending-unit.html to diagnose my issue.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
test to make sure you have 12 volts positive and negative at the back of the gauge, if so, use a paper clip or other wire to jump from the black ground wire to the pink sending unit wire. the gauge should jump to full, if it doesn’t, you have a bad gauge. if it jumps to full, go to the sending unit on the tank, and jump the same pink and black wire together. if the gauge jumps to full you have a bad sending unit. if it does not, you have a bad wire between the gauge and the sending unit.
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quote:
Originally posted by chris Vtest to make sure you have 12 volts positive and negative at the back of the gauge, if so, use a paper clip or other wire to jump from the black ground wire to the pink sending unit wire. the gauge should jump to full, if it doesn’t, you have a bad gauge. if it jumps to full, go to the sending unit on the tank, and jump the same pink and black wire together. if the gauge jumps to full you have a bad sending unit. if it does not, you have a bad wire between the gauge and the sending unit.
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Thank-you Sir, I will try that this evening.
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Chris V ; ya beat me to it and helped pit , now I’ve got a question!!
90 hp 4s Yamaha ,for winter storage , would you suggest running
all fuel out of engine and leave it dry of fuel or just leave it
as is , fuel is mostly e-free but does have some e to it with
proper stabil additive… fuel tank is 3/4-7/8 full so hopeing
to not condense water What you think???
Thanks;;; Gail Wins:face_with_head_bandage:
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author unknown
I don’t like to run fuel injected engines dry
not good for the electric fuel pump
top off the tank
mix up a small tank heavy with stabilizer, and a little 2 stroke oil, and run it till it starts smoking a bit, then shut it down.
fuel is stabilized and everything inside the motor is lubed
may need to change the plugs in the spring, but it should be safe from winter demons
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Thanks Cris ; Sounds like a plan, i’ll do just that…thanks again!!
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OK, so I have 3 posts on back of the fuel gauge and a spade clip. One post marked “GND”, one marked “S” and another marked “I” and I am assuming the spade clip is for gauge illumination. I am getting 12volts between I and GND, am also getting 12volts between GND and S. If I jump between I and GND, nothing happens. If I jump between S and GND, I get a arc. No matter where I jump, the gauge needle doesn’t move. I also do not get any gauge movement when I jump the sending unit. This led me to believe (perhaps I am wrong) that the gauge was bad, also considering the gauge remains on 1/4 tank at all times. I purchased a new gauge, exact Skeeter OEM replacement and I get the same results. Any suggestions?
“Kleenex, The Official Sponsor of Fishb8”
OK, so I have 3 posts on back of the fuel gauge and a spade clip. One post marked “GND”, one marked “S” and another marked “I” and I am assuming the spade clip is for gauge illumination. I am getting 12volts between I and GND, am also getting 12volts between GND and S. If I jump between I and GND, nothing happens. If I jump between S and GND, I get a arc. No matter where I jump, the gauge needle doesn’t move. I also do not get any gauge movement when I jump the sending unit. This led me to believe (perhaps I am wrong) that the gauge was bad, also considering the gauge remains on 1/4 tank at all times. I purchased a new gauge, exact Skeeter OEM replacement and I get the same results. Any suggestions?
“Kleenex, The Official Sponsor of Fishb8”
Pitviper;
Open this link, it shows wiring diagram for fuel gauges
hope it helps… 
Shoot me a pm if you want to talk it over…
GW
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/howtos/1105a.jpg
[http://www.militaryappreciationday.org
When you see “Old Glory” waving in the breeze, know that it is the dying breaths of our fallen hero’s that makes it wave.
author unknown
quote:
Originally posted by chris Vtest to make sure you have 12 volts positive and negative at the back of the gauge, if so, use a paper clip or other wire to jump from the black ground wire to the pink sending unit wire. the gauge should jump to full, if it doesn’t, you have a bad gauge.</font id=“red”> if it jumps to full, go to the sending unit on the tank, and jump the same pink and black wire together. if the gauge jumps to full you have a bad sending unit. if it does not, you have a bad wire between the gauge and the sending unit.
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Thanks Gail Wins, so according to your chart and ChrisV’s test directions, I had a bad gauge and the gauge I ordered must be bad also. I jumped between “S” and “GND” and got nothing from the gauge with the ignition on.
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are you sure you have a good ground?
you can test the gauges by isolating them from the boat system.
remove all wires between boat and gauge
use 2 jumper wires and run power and ground directly to the gauge, then jump between pink and black.
gauge should show full. if it doesn’t, its a bad gauge.
keep in mind, something could be wrong in the boat wiring, shorting out the gauge, and if you install a new gauge, you could kill the new gauge
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So should I be getting 12volts when I check between (GND and I) and between (GND and S)?
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GROUND AND I YES
GROUND AND S SHOULD BE A RESISTANCE, BUT NOT FULL CONTINUITY
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It this how I should connect the gauge to a battery to test?
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NOOOOOO!!!
THERE IS NO COMMUNICATION BETWEEN S AND I
TIME FOR A PRO???
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Gail Wins called me this morning and set me strait. I will most likely bring it to you if I cant get it soon.
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