Starting a rewire/cleanup of my flats boat and have a fuse block question for the pros on here. What is the most reliable and easy to use fuse block? I have been looking at the blue seas “H” style with integrated ground block for the 12volt system. I will be adding a 24volt trolling motor and need advice on a good setup for it.
When the trolling motor batteries are installed it will limit me to only one battery to run the 12 volt systems. Is there a way through switches to be able to use one of the trolling batteries to start the motor in an emergency? Maybe use a keyed battery switch to prevent an accident?
Thank you in advance
-Albemarle 248xf “Chella”
-Dolphin 18BC Pro
-Miscellaneous boats
“Praise the lord and pass the ammunition” -Howell Forgy
You will need 3 batteries. Your pair connected to the troller for 24, then a stand alone house battery that is connected to the engine for charging/starting. You can add a battery selector switch, and if you pull directly from one of the trolling batteries leads, that will be a 12 volt led that you connect to the starter for emergency starting. However, only the house battery will get charged. Pretty standard setup.
You will need 3 batteries. Your pair connected to the troller for 24, then a stand alone house battery that is connected to the engine for charging/starting. You can add a battery selector switch, and if you pull directly from one of the trolling batteries leads, that will be a 12 volt led that you connect to the starter for emergency starting. However, only the house battery will get charged. Pretty standard setup.
“Wailord”
1979 17’ Montauk
90 Johnson
Wilderness Ride 115
I understand about having three batteries. I currently have two (one house and one backup) on a perko selector switch. I do not have enough room on the boat to have two trolling batteries and two for 12 volt functions. This will limit me to having only one battery for all 12 volt functions. My question is, can one of the batteries setup in the 24 volt wiring pattern be used to start a 12 volt starter on my outboard without damage to any of the systems?
-Albemarle 248xf “Chella”
-Dolphin 18BC Pro
-Miscellaneous boats
“Praise the lord and pass the ammunition” -Howell Forgy
I have a similar setup: ie: 2 12v batteries in series for the 24v TM and a single 12V for house power. I charge them all on a 3 outlet on-board charger. I have a much lower tech solution in that I keep a set of jumper cables under the console to jump from one of the TM batteries in an emergency. I paid off a few weeks ago when the house battery died on me. I did unhook the leads to the second battery in my 24v configuration before jumping from one of the batteries but I don’t know if that was necessary.
3 IS ALL YOU NEED
1 STARTING
2 TROLLING
YOU CAN USE A STANDARD PERKO SWITCH, AND NOTHING BAD WILL HAPPEN IF YOU SWITCH IT TO THE TROLLING MOTOR BATTERY, AS LONG AS ITS WIRED PROPERLY.
ALL THE BATTERIES ARE 12 VOLTS, SO IF DONE CORRECTLY, YOU WONT BE MIXING 12 AND 24 VOLTS
As long as you pull from the neg. and pos. of just 1 of the trolling batteries, that will give you 12 volts to your battery switch as a backup starting battery. The trolling motor is then connected to both of the 12 volt battery properly resulting in a 24 volt feed to the troller, and a 12 volt BU lead to the engine. The house battery stays isolated from any of this and would run the starter and acc.
3 IS ALL YOU NEED
1 STARTING
2 TROLLING
YOU CAN USE A STANDARD PERKO SWITCH, AND NOTHING BAD WILL HAPPEN IF YOU SWITCH IT TO THE TROLLING MOTOR BATTERY, AS LONG AS ITS WIRED PROPERLY.
ALL THE BATTERIES ARE 12 VOLTS, SO IF DONE CORRECTLY, YOU WONT BE MIXING 12 AND 24 VOLTS
NEVER HEARD OF “YANDINA”
AS FOR FUSE BLOCKS…
WE TRY TO ALWAYS USE A CIRCUIT BREAKER SWITCH PANEL IN ONE, INSTEAD OF FUSES, THEY ARE RESETTABLE AND EVERYTHING IS IN 1 PLACE
NEVER HEARD OF “YANDINA”
AS FOR FUSE BLOCKS…
WE TRY TO ALWAYS USE A CIRCUIT BREAKER SWITCH PANEL IN ONE, INSTEAD OF FUSES, THEY ARE RESETTABLE AND EVERYTHING IS IN 1 PLACE
Thanks for the info. I ordered a blue seas 50 thermal breaker from port supply and hope to have it all wired up soon. I will be coming to see you for the motor afterwards.
Yandina setups look great (you ought to check them out) but I think the MK mantains a small 24v current when not in use and would cause the Yandina converter to be problematic.
Thank you
-Albemarle 248xf “Chella”
-Dolphin 18BC Pro
-Miscellaneous boats
“Praise the lord and pass the ammunition” -Howell Forgy
As to the MK pulling juice. I always disconnect when sitting. I just disconnect the gray plug at the motor and it stops the gps signal from draining power when idle.
Read the above posts looks like Blue Seas was recommended. This is a Docas model and had good reviews with some saying they preferred it over Blue Seas.
Hey @Offthechain if you’ll come and install it I will supervise and open beers for you
