No not squashing bugs although that works some…Has anyone ever dealt with squash bugs and squash vine borers? I’ve been plagued with them the last two years in my small home garden. Two years ago I had more squash and zucchini then the wife and kids could eat plus what I could give away off 4 of each plant. I got maybe 4-5 mature ones last season and the bugs have come back. Plant grows great for a few weeks and just as it starts to set baby squash/zucc they start wilting and tons of these “stink bug” looking things are everywhere. Sevin dust doesn’t seem to phase them and I was on the lookout early for them this year, but still they’re back. I ordered some praying mantis egg cases to hatch on hopes they would work them over as they’re listed as a natural predator of squash bugs. Any other tips tricks would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I found this interesting. These f—ers have reeked havoc on my plants to the point I am not growing squash for a few years. Good luck!
You use yellow trap pans to detect squash vine borer adults. This can be any container (e.g. pan, pail, bowl) colored yellow and filled with water. Because squash vine borer adults are attracted to yellow, they will fly to the container and be trapped when they fall into the water. Place traps by late June, checking your traps at least once a day. When you notice squash vine borer adults in your traps you know they are active and it is time to take further action.
If insecticides are needed, spray or dust the stems at their base. Start treatments when vines begin to run (or the last week of June or early July for non-vining varieties) or when the first adult borers are detected. Repeat in 7-10 days. Two applications help manage most squash vine borer adults. For more thorough coverage, continue treatments at 7-10 day intervals until the end of July.
If, despite your efforts, your crop is successfully attacked by borers, you can try to kill the borer inside the vine. Although the chance of saving the plant is not good, you do not have much to lose. As soon as wilting is noticed, use a sharp knife to cut a slit in the affected stem. Slice carefully up the vine until you locate the borer (or borers). Once you have killed any borers with the tip of the knife, mound moist soil over the cut area and keep this spot well watered. New roots may grow along the cut stem, allowing the plant to survive.
https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/insects/find/squash-vine-borers/
Karma is 360 degrees
Some got to win, some got to lose…
quote:
Originally posted by jiprideI found this interesting. These f—ers have reeked havoc on my plants to the point I am not growing squash for a few years. Good luck!
You use yellow trap pans to detect squash vine borer adults. This can be any container (e.g. pan, pail, bowl) colored yellow and filled with water. Because squash vine borer adults are attracted to yellow, they will fly to the container and be trapped when they fall into the water. Place traps by late June, checking your traps at least once a day. When you notice squash vine borer adults in your traps you know they are active and it is time to take further action.
If insecticides are needed, spray or dust the stems at their base. Start treatments when vines begin to run (or the last week of June or early July for non-vining varieties) or when the first adult borers are detected. Repeat in 7-10 days. Two applications help manage most squash vine borer adults. For more thorough coverage, continue treatments at 7-10 day intervals until the end of July.
If, despite your efforts, your crop is successfully attacked by borers, you can try to kill the borer inside the vine. Although the chance of saving the plant is not good, you do not have much to lose. As soon as wilting is noticed, use a sharp knife to cut a slit in the affected stem. Slice carefully up the vine until you locate the borer (or borers). Once you have killed any borers with the tip of the knife, mound moist soil over the cut area and keep this spot well watered. New roots may grow along the cut stem, allowing the plant to survive.
https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/insects/find/squash-vine-borers/
Karma is 360 degrees
Some got to win, some got to lose…
Pretty sure I found that exact same info somewhere too. They definitely start way before June in the
This is why I don’t do squash in the fall. Like you said seven dust does little. I’ve started use the Bayer advanced complete and mix a little stronger than recommended.
So far we have picked squash twice with no bugs… just the big hard brown stink bugs on potatoes and sunflowers.
Thanks for the link Jpride, good info.
“Why Bruce?”
It’s not the ‘stink bugs’, but as others have said it’s the borers. Once they are in the soil it’s almost impossible to get rid of them. Some suggest wrapping the stems with aluminum foil when they are planted to protect the stems from the borers. Other suggest growing them in pots, with potting soil, not dirt. Others, like me…give up planting them. Check with the Clemson web site for accurate info…HGIC
These dudes are the devil! We usually stay ahead of them, but not this year! They showed up way earlier, guessing do to the heat. Luckily they only killed three squash plants all of the same variety though 
. We spray with spinosad as recommended by a friend and it appears to be keeping them at bay. We used to use a lot of the other harsher insecticides (which work), but can no longer get away with it now that we have bees. Make sure you spray the baby squash because they will bore into those as well!
Also, we start our squash from seeds in February and plant in mid-March, it is a gamble but they are still small enough to cover if a frost hits. We usually water the garden, put a solo cup over each plant, and then a blanket. In fact, we have never lost any to frost. Planting early helps the plants get larger by the time the borers hit, which I feel allows them to handle the borers a little better. Plus, you start getting squash before they arrive! We have already had 3 rounds of crook neck, straight neck, and zucchini. Should be picking sugar pumpkins, scallop, and spaghetti in the next week! Good luck it is frustrating and most end up giving up on squash…it just requires a little extra work.
I spray mine when the plants are about 3-4 weeks old and then again when I can see the first sign of blossoms forming with 7 spray. started picking earlier this week yesterday they were in full production. picked a 5 gallon bucket of 3" yellow squash and zucchini.
I saw a few squash vine borer moths earlier in the week and squished them.They are black and red.
I did a raised bed garden with purchased garden soil and they still annihilated mine last year.
Hmmmm, dolphin have a lot of yellow. Could squash bugs be responsible??
It ain’t no mystery…this beer’s history!
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Originally posted by EdistodanielI did a raised bed garden with purchased garden soil and they still annihilated mine last year.
New soil has no impact of them…they just come from adjacent areas!! Only thing you can do is spray and pray!
quote:
Originally posted by fishcrazyThese dudes are the devil! We usually stay ahead of them, but not this year! They showed up way earlier, guessing do to the heat. Luckily they only killed three squash plants all of the same variety though
Also, we start our squash from seeds in February and plant in mid-March, it is a gamble but they are still small enough to cover if a frost hits. We usually water the garden, put a solo cup over each plant, and then a blanket. In fact, we have never lost any to frost. Planting early helps the plants get larger by the time the borers hit, which I feel allows them to handle the borers a little better. Plus, you start getting squash before they arrive! We have already had 3 rounds of crook neck, straight neck, and zucchini. Should be picking sugar pumpkins, scallop, and spaghetti in the next week! Good luck it is frustrating and most end up giving up on squash…it just requires a little extra work.
Can you get “spinosad” at Lowe’s/HD? Is that the name brand or the chemical to look for in the pesticide?
You gonna talk or FISH!
Spinosad is the active ingredient. We just buy a 16oz bottle of concentrate (makes a ton!!) from amazon for $25 you get WAY more bang for you buck! If need some now Lowes has it and it is called Captain Jack’s Dead Bug, which runs about $10. It kills them after ingestion or contact, so you may still see them bore into the plant but it shouldn’t kill the plant at least from what I have seen. Supposedly organic as well for what its worth.
Edit: Supposedly you can inject it into the squash with a syringe if the plant is infected and it will kill them! Never tried it though.
quote:Thanks!
Originally posted by fishcrazySpinosad is the active ingredient. We just buy a 16oz bottle of concentrate (makes a ton!!) from amazon for $25 you get WAY more bang for you buck! If need some now Lowes has it and it is called Captain Jack’s Dead Bug, which runs about $10. It kills them after ingestion or contact, so you may still see them bore into the plant but it shouldn’t kill the plant at least from what I have seen. Supposedly organic as well for what its worth.
Edit: Supposedly you can inject it into the squash with a syringe if the plant is infected and it will kill them! Never tried it though.
You gonna talk or FISH!