So, I have finally got the “Flounda Pounda” ready to get bloody, sorta. Thanks to SkinnyJ for the name.
Anyway, I have been told and read that LED’s don’t penetrate the water to well so I have an idea, but would appreciate any input.
Thinking of ordering some Color Acetate Photo Filter sheets and glueing them to thin pieces of Plexiglass for covers. Amber and green have been suggested. Some velcro could be used to make them removable, but not to sure how well that would stick as the top and bottom, front of lights in not a smooth finish. Perhaps I should have the plexiglass cut to extend above and below light a 1/4" or so and cut a small slit in it to run a velcro strip through and around back of lights.
BTW, won’t be used much for flounder, mostly Clark Hill bow fishing. Couple pics below.
Thanks, any and all for input.
NN
Go on Amazon and order some amber/yellow vinyl film. It will stick directly to the lights and help big time. The film cost about 6 bucks and should do all your lights.
Also, check out Jerrys Leds on Face book. He has some videos with the amber tint in action
quote:
Originally posted by palmettotrooper
Go on Amazon and order some amber/yellow vinyl film. It will stick directly to the lights and help big time. The film cost about 6 bucks and should do all your lights.
Also, check out Jerrys Leds on Face book. He has some videos with the amber tint in action
Just checked out a Youtube vid of him sticking some flounder.
Thanks
NN
That “dead” corner on the port side is gonna drive you crazy. Another light there at an angle would solve it.
Otherwise, please report back what colors work best for you.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
I run 4 of Jerry’s. Awesome and then some!
I think Leadenwah advice is a pro tip… now about that pool table, you play much or is it a work bench in the garage?
Fishing Nerd
“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”
quote:
Originally posted by leadenwahboy
That “dead” corner on the port side is gonna drive you crazy. Another light there at an angle would solve it.
Yes, it may but, gonna wait till on the water to see. I have some room to shift the bow light that way to close the gap…Thanks
quote:
Originally posted by StumpNocker
I think Leadenwah advice is a pro tip… now about that pool table, you play much or is it a work bench in the garage?
LOL, its a detached shop, man cave etc. Haven’t shot much lately, so tends to be a bench at times:face_with_head_bandage:…
Reelescape, those look like they would work well.
NN
Looks good, let us know how it works out. Who knew LEDs didn’t penetrate water? Wonder why?
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
When I was kid, I went gigging. The guy I went with used a car battery as power. For the light, he used a sealed beam car light bonded to conduit with the wiring inside. He explained that he held the light under water to knock down glare. I was easy to see every detail.
Cheap.
DRMajor
quote:
Originally posted by DFreedom
Looks good, let us know how it works out. Who knew LEDs didn’t penetrate water? Wonder why?
“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?
Thanks, Doug.
My understanding is its the bright white light. Still penetrates but, a lot of glare/reflection.
Sounds like the amber film, as Palmetto suggested solves this.
I’ve done the gigging thing when I was a kid using a coleman lantern. Worked great. My dads pro tip was to take glass out of lantern and wrap tin foil around 1/3rd of glass to deflect/reflect more light where you needed it and out of your eyes.
NN
quote:
Originally posted by leadenwahboy
That “dead” corner on the port side is gonna drive you crazy. Another light there at an angle would solve it.
Otherwise, please report back what colors work best for you.
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Went to Clark Hill and you were right about the “dead Spot”. Gonna get a couple of the 2" square floods to take care of that.
Also, as Palmettotrouper suggested, I ordered some of that peel and stick amber headlight film and placed over lights. Wow, works great! Penetrates water and no glare.
With the current setup, I’m have an 18 amp draw @ 12 volts. The addition of the two smaller lights will put it up close to 23 amps. The 27 Duracell Ultra I have is rated at 23amps for 200mins. I wanna have more battery capacity (as running the current battery all the way down will kill it prematurely)but don’t really want to add another battery in series for 24v due to weight and space. Lights will run off 12 or 24 which is cool tho.
Soooo, where can I get a deep cycle battery rated for something like 25 amps for 300mins?
Thanks for any advice,
NN
The math on what you are looking for comes to a 262 AH (AGM type) battery (@ 20hrs). Unless you buy one of those custom built $800 dollar batteries, it ain’t happening. Even the 31 blue top is a 75AH rated battery; not saying that it is the best, but it seems to be the benchmark most use. I would suggest getting two D31M Blue tops or comparable make/model and running them in parallel. The only complication after that may be if you are using the same circuit to start the engine. I say this because I do not know the safe charging characteristics of every outboard’s rectifying circuit. The more drained the batteries become the more load they will draw from your engine’s charging circuit, most simply ignore this fact and are constantly wondering why their rectifier keeps failing. This could be handled by possibly using a changeover switch and not allowing one of the batteries to become overly drained.
2013 Ranger Z21 Intracoastal 250 hp Yamaha VMAX SHO
quote:
Originally posted by Big Shrimpin
The math on what you are looking for comes to a 262 AH (AGM type) battery (@ 20hrs). Unless you buy one of those custom built $800 dollar batteries, it ain’t happening. Even the 31 blue top is a 75AH rated battery; not saying that it is the best, but it seems to be the benchmark most use. I would suggest getting two D31M Blue tops or comparable make/model and running them in parallel. The only complication after that may be if you are using the same circuit to start the engine. I say this because I do not know the safe charging characteristics of every outboard’s rectifying circuit. The more drained the batteries become the more load they will draw from your engine’s charging circuit, most simply ignore this fact and are constantly wondering why their rectifier keeps failing. This could be handled by possibly using a changeover switch and not allowing one of the batteries to become overly drained.
2013 Ranger Z21 Intracoastal 250 hp Yamaha VMAX SHO
Thanks for your input, and no, I’m not trying to charge from the engine for the reasons you mentioned. That 20 Yammy only puts out 10amps.
NN