Never held a fly reel before in my life don’t know how they work. What do the W’s mean after a #? Want to get one for all sized tailing reds whether its a 12 incher or a 35 incher what can do this? I also have no idea about pricing and quality so what is the shimano baitrunner of fly reels but maybe a tad bit lower quality? Also good fly rods. As you can see I know NOTHING about fly fishing but I’m gonna really try and learn. Would really appreciate all the help given. BTW I’m not gonna buy a good setup as my first one never use it and trash it, I would really like to get good at it.
Light travel’s faster than sound. This is why some people appear smart until you hear them speak.
It designates the weight line it is designed to hold. Stop by the shop, haddrells,or the angler with it all and get help with the learning curve.people who are great with casting/ spinning rods often have the most trouble…throwing the weight of the line and not the weight of the lure…anywho- a 6-9 is the ideal range for trailers…we can cast out back if you ever need help with the little casting quirks
Look at redington and tfo, great quality rods at stellar prices. Reels are not terriblely important…more like man jewelry…unless your chasing the ganstas…ie poons, Aj’s, permit, etc.
I’d get a 9 because you can cast it better in the surf also, I know you do a lot of surf fishing. Get a good rod a redington or something and scientific anglers line and get a cheaper like an Okuma reek I have.
I’m a high class redneck.
Fishing is a delusion entirely surrounded by liars in pfgs and buffs.
http://www.redington.com/fly-fishing-reels/pursuit/ would this be a good reel to start off with? What size? Again Idk what I’m doing. I’m going to check out some shops before I do anything of course but just getting ideas.
Light travel’s faster than sound. This is why some people appear smart until you hear them speak.
That will work… make sure you get the 789 model… BTW if you swing by one of the local shops, you can get that reel, WITH a rod and line all ready to go and it won’t break the bank… Got a buddy who has had one for about 4 years now and he is still usin it and catchin fish on it…
As an absolute beginner, I would suggest you take a look at these pages on the Orvis web site. They concisely define the number weighting system for fly lines, suggested hook sizes for target fish. Always remembering to match your rod and reel to your line. Always remember that these are only recommendations and are a good starting point. Experience will undoubtedly modify suggestions! Here is the chart URL:
Use that as a reference ONLY… Depending on the rod I have some I run one or two weights over and it really makes the rod cast better. Other rods I have I use the recommended line and they cast fine…
Ross… ugh… got a personal beef with them but their high end stuff is solid. If you are not going to go redington for entry level reel I really suggest the Okuma SLV… inexpensive but SOLID reels. I have one that I have been abusing in the salt for 6 years now and it still reels and has a solid drag. I never rinse it, I dunk it every time I go out with it and it still reels like it is right out of the box. You can always upgrade later but it is a dang good reel for less than $80…
Use that as a reference ONLY… Depending on the rod I have some I run one or two weights over and it really makes the rod cast better. Other rods I have I use the recommended line and they cast fine…
nikon,
I did say that these were suggestions and was trying to keep things simple. The difference in line weighting recommended and in use can get complicated. For instance, I have built fly rods at 2, 5 and 8 wt and found that the 2 and 8 wt’s cast better when using a 3 and 9 wt line respectively. I confirmed this using the Common Cents System ( http://www.common-cents.info/) of measuring blank characteristics.
Lets try and keep it simple for the newbies - just to get them hooked
I’ll attempt to catch anything with fins!
Now, where did you say you saw that mermaid …
…Want to get one for all sized tailing reds whether its a 12 incher or a 35 incher what can do this?..
</font id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”>For reds from 12 to 30 inches caught inshore, the reels is just a line holder. The rod will stop the fish. The reel will not.
I’m adjusting your redfish size from 12 to 35 inches down to 12 to 30 inches. Look through the last 1,000 reds caught on a fly rod and see how many are 35"?
quote:Originally posted by StuckonLand
…I also have no idea about pricing and quality so what is the shimano baitrunner of fly reels but, maybe a tad bit lower quality?..
</font id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”> On a $250 fly rod/reel budget (for example), ; spend $200 on the rod and $50 on the reel.
quote:Originally posted by StuckonLand
…Also, good fly rods…
</font id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”>Get an 8WT for your target fish. Just name a rod that you are looking at and we will tell you if it is a good “first rod”. For example… if you say a 8WT Temple Fork BVK, I will say no. Not durable enough for a “first rod”. 8WT Temple Fork TiCr X Series, sure.
“On a $250 fly rod/reel budget (for example), ; spend $200 on the rod and $50 on the reel.”
A good 9ft 8wt TFO Professional 2-pc will run ya about $140 and a SLV 78 or 89 will run you about $70 and that leaves ya about $40 for a line… Ya may have to bump that up by about $30 to get a good line and you’ll have a good set up. You CAN get a 8wt fly line for about $40 but fly fishing is a very “ya get what ya pay for” kinda sport… lifetime warranty on the rod and you’ll be able to tangle with redfish down to bream and bass…
…I really suggest the Okuma SLV… inexpensive but SOLID reels. I have one that I have been abusing in the salt for 6 years now and it still reels and has a solid drag. I never rinse it, I dunk it every time I go out with it and it still reels like it is right out of the box. You can always upgrade later but it is a dang good reel for less than $80…
Thank’s guy’s! I’ll run by a couple different fly shop’s to check out some rod’s and reel’s but this was a great starting point. If there are any more suggestions just add em’ because I won’t buy one for a month or so or until I get my kayak.
Light travel’s faster than sound. This is why some people appear smart until you hear them speak.
I’d get a 9 because you can cast it better in the surf also, I know you do a lot of surf fishing. Get a good rod a redington or something and scientific anglers line and get a cheaper like an Okuma reek I have.
I’m a high class redneck.
Fishing is a delusion entirely surrounded by liars in pfgs and buffs.
Are these actual products that you’ve used and compared with other brands, or are they just what you’ve read about and are regurgitating the same BS said by the people who are paid to use the stuff?
Redington makes pretty decent rods and reels, I’ve got Redington setups in both 3 and 5 wts and they’ll accomplish everything I need them to. I’ve thrown everything from Scott to G Loomis, Redington to TFO, Sage to St. Croix and I’ve got to say that while I have two 8 wt St. Croix rods, if I were to pay retail for one, it’d be TFO, Redington or St. Croix as I’m only a novice fly fisherman and don’t need the high end stuff. The reel, as everyone has said, isn’t as important as the rod and I like my simple G Loommis reel and all of the Redington reels I have. Rio makes a good line and I’ve got Rio lines on all of my stuff. Don’t gravitate to the brands all the fanboys talk about, do some HANDS ON research and find out what’s most attractive to you. No matter what you get, as long as you’re confident in your gear, you won’t have too much problem catching fish. If you start second guessing your gear, you’ll never be satisfied and will never be happy with it.
