Hey guys,
Thanks for the previous ■■■■■■■■ on boating questions.
Got some more for you…
Being a first time purchaser, I’m looking for some ■■■■■■■■ on how to inspect a used boat (from a dealer, not a private seller).
What are some specifics I should be looking for?
What would be some red flags?
What are common things that get overlooked but turn into future problems?
Is it common practice for a dealer to let you take a boat to another mechanic for a review?
What are some things you can get thrown into a deal (Coast Guard safety package, etc) that you might not get unless you ask for it?
Other additional negotiating points?
Any additional advice/■■■■■■■■/comments are greatly appreciated!
If you get it from a dealer ask for a warranty! If they won’t give you one or want to sell you one, don’t buy it. If a dealer won’t let you have your own mechanic look at it, don’t buy it! Ask for the world, all they can say is no! I think some dealer sell on consignment so they may have to sell a boat(AS IS)! They may have not taken in the boat as a trade in, so will not have the leeway to offer a warranty! Ask that question! Is this a dealer sale or a consignment? Check to see if the boat has any transferrable hull warranty left on it!
Being a first time purchaser, I’m looking for some ■■■■■■■■ on how to inspect a used boat (from a dealer, not a private seller).
Bring a friend who has bought 2-3 used boats before. They have likely fixed many things that they found wrong and will be a great help.
What are some specifics I should be looking for?
hours on motor, wiring, battery age, corrosion/bunks on trailer (check it after the boat is launched for test run), splices on anything that the dealership re-wired, trolling motor plugs, float switch on bilge pump … actually test all of the pumps.
What would be some red flags?
Make sure that the motor is cold when they take you out for a test run. Put your hand on it or ask them. If they wont let you take it on a test run, walk away.
What are common things that get overlooked but turn into future problems?
pumps and wiring. Pumps often go out, and they can be expensive. wiring is a major hassle. TRAILERS that need bunks or have the bearings rusting or have lug nuts rusted on can be a total PITA
Is it common practice for a dealer to let you take a boat to another mechanic for a review?
No, I haven’t found that to be the case. Nor have I found any dealers that will issue warranties for used boats.
What are some things you can get thrown into a deal (Coast Guard safety package, etc) that you might not get unless you ask for it?
Safety gear is a maybe- that is a big money maker for them. Lights (all around, red/green) almost definitely if not included or not working.
Other additional negotiating points?
BRING MONEY. People will deal with you better with cash in hand. No one will haggle if you “have to go back and get financing and you will call them next week.” Also, never be in a position where you “have” to buy the boat. Don’t tell a dealer that you are coming to see one boat, and tell them that you have a couple other places you are going to see today after this one. Tell them they need to give you t
i guess I should say that my advice is really for less expensive, inshore boats. If you are going for a big offshore boat (and big $$) i would say hire a surveyor and they are also more likely to let you bring a mechanic over.
i would say for a larger boat, get a survey… for a sub $20k center console however, i would not worry too much about buying from a dealer. most offer a 30 day warranty on used boats. if not, get someone to check it out that knows more than you.
what boat are you looking at? it will help us to give you more specific advice.
speaking as a dealer, unless the motor has factory warranty, no one is going offer a warranty on a used motor, trade-in or consignment.
if the dealer or private seller will not let you have it inspected, walk away from the deal.no, RUN away from the deal.
most dealers will want your mechanic to come to them.
we offer a buyers inspection for $200 at our location, $300 off site.
major motor issues are engine hours, compression, spark, and lower unit condition.
then on the hull you want to make sure the transom and floor are solid.
pumps lights, wiring, electronics, trailer bearings, etc.
I was in the same situation in Feb '13. Thats when I bought my NauticStar. Lots of good info in post so far?.Here is what I did?..sorry this is so long!
Decide on what you will do with the boat?fish…ski…joy ride?all three.
Choose the appropriate type based on #1. Typically fishing boats are single or center console?..ski/joy ride/all three are dual console. Dual console has less room to move around but usually more seating.
If you are fishing then you need to decide on aluminum or fiberglass?.both have pro/cons that you need to research. Aluminum boats have improved greatly over the last several years.
Decide on hull design?.v-hull or tri-hull or flat bottom?these usually are determined by the location of where you will be fishing?inshore, nearshore, offshore. These can also be based on personal preference. If you can, you should ride in a boat with all three?..I think v-hull absorb the force of a wave better than a tri-hull but a tri-hull definitely has the smoothest ride in mild wave conditions. Thus great for joy riding.
If fiberglass you need to examine the boat closely. Its best to do this at night or low light conditions with a flashlight held at an angle. Chips, scratches, and spider cracks will show up easily. Also rub your hand all over the top and sides and look for chalk after each wipe. These things can be corrected but its ALOT OF WORK! Stay away from boats that are over 10 yrs old particularly if it has not been garage kept. Internal damage is very likely particularly if there are a lot of screw holes in the transom and along the top rail (rod holders)
Crawl under the boat on the trailer and tap the bottom with a wooden stick or handle. High pitch tap is good, low pitch tap is bad?stringers are very important to a fiber boat!
While under the boat try to check between the carpeted running boards and boat. Osmosis will occur on any boat and it creates gelcoat blisters. These blisters crack and allow water damage to occur internally. This is typi
I think a lot has to do with the type of boat you’re considering. Inspecting a 18’ CC is not going to be the same as inspecting a 47’ Cabo. Once you’ve figured out the basic personal preferences you want from the boat (size, style, cost, etc.), then I’d start doing some research on the specific boats you’re considering. You would be amazed at what you can find on the internet for boat reviews.
Then once you’ve picked a possible winner, you need to look closely at specific systems on the boat (like Mark mentioned above). If there is just one piece of advice I can give it’s take it on a sea trial. No matter how good the boat looks at the dock or on the trailer, you never know until you take it out. Check the systems before, during, and after the sea trial (look for water intrusion, oil leaks, broken mounts, etc.), check to see if she lists, vibrates excessively, backs down properly, etc.
Also, record the speed-to-RPM numbers at cruise and WOT and compare to the manufacturers numbers, regardless of what the compression test or diagnostic testing says. There are many other factors that can cause sub-par engine performance. And of course you could always just hire a surveyor to do all of this for you (if the situation calls for it).
Google the motor and look for bad threads about it to gain knowledge. One example is the F225 Yamaha pre-2005 had potential for exhaust corrosion that up until recently was an arm and a leg to repair, thousands of dollars. I hear it is less than a grand now.
My main focus has been motor, motor, motor but I’ve seen some nightmares recently about structural problems with the boat too, so consider that.
I’ve replaced everything that has technology involved on the two used boats I’ve bought.
I would just take someone with you that is familar with boats because it doesn’t sound like the boat you are looking at is expensive. If the boat is expensive a marine survey is a no brainer. If the boat is older and has a 2 stroke, definitely get the compression checked. Just make sure you water test the boat and make sure and cut on all the pumps and lights to ensure everything works. If it doesn’t, no big deal, but adjust your price accordingly or get the dealer to fix it.
One of the first things I look for is how clean the boat is. I know this sounds trivial, but most people that really take care of their boat keep it super clean.
Like JTM said, I don’t think I’ve ever looked at a used boat and it had all of the pumps working… not too big of a deal, just another thing to add to the list.
Hey guys, thanks for all the comments/■■■■■■■■/advice. I appreciate the time y’all put into your replies. I’m on the fence between new/used but one of our fellow CF.comers whom I’ve become friends with has provided some good advice and food for thought on the subject. I did ride in the used boat I’m considering and from my uneducated/inexperienced point of view, the boat ran great. I was really impressed with the 150 4 stroke Suzuki. Really quiet and responsive, only has 30 hr and warranty til 2017. Trim tabs worked great and really changed the ride.