I’m new to the hydraulic steering on a boat. I understand hydraulics but curious as to what the diagnosis of this problem is…
I turn the wheel about 2 full rounds before the motor starts to move. Doesn’t matter which direction, Once the motor moves it moves all the way to full stroke with no hesitation then two turns before it starts back the other way.
Do I have air in the system or a dirty/sticking check valve?
Probably air in system and low fluid. There is a fill plug on top of the helm unit, top it off and work the wheel back and forth a few times then top it off again. Sometime they need bleeding, usually not. The Teleflex website will give you full instructions on how to bleed it.
Capt. Larry Teuton
Cracker Built Custom Boats
“Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made.” -Robert N. Rose
That’s what I was gonna try first, mainly because it will be the easiest .
Mine has the remote port to add fluid so it shouldn’t be too hard.
Thanks.
Now I gotta find the fluid.
we sell the fluid, as do most shops and west marine
be prepared for sticker shock
its about $22 a quart
bleeding is much easier with 2 people, also, make an “iV” drip bottle with the fill tube and fluid bottle
Holy crap…$22 a quart!!
I just bought a 5 gallon pail of hydraulic fluid for my backhoe and thought $50 was crazy!
Oh well that’s what happens when they bend you over a barrell.
The manual lists about 6 diffrent oils that can be used but I’ve never heard of any of them…go figure.
It would be interesting to know what the make-up of the oil is, I would definately think a rust inhibitor, maybe some anti-wear additive, low acidic properties…etc. What in the world could make the oil cost that? Why would a OEM even spec out an oil like that?
It’s really just a positive displacement pump, some hydraulic hose and a cylinder.
Oh well…gotta pay to play.
DW,
I take a piece of hose and connect it to the bleeder on the cylinder with some hose clamps. I can’t seem to find the right diameter hose, so I ratchet down. I rig a funnel as a reservoir with a filter and a valve feeding into the helm with about a quart in the “reservoir.” Open the bleeder, turn the wheel until the fluid fills the hose and starts pouring back into the reservoir. Do it slowly and the bubbles will rise out of the reservoir.
I say that, but I still have the capability to turn my wheel slowly either direction w/o the motor moving at all. I rebuilt the helm last year with all new checks and cleaned everything up and didn’t make a change at all. Since then, it’s become easier to turn the wheel w/o moving the motor. I think my cylinder is leaking by. It’s my next course of action, rebuild the cylinder. I have the kit already.
Gunnels says the fluid for about $24/qt I think. It won’t take much to bleed the system. I buy two, keep one and whatever is left of the other, which is more than 1/2 of one as a spare on the boat. Honestly I keep the old stuff on the boat too, just in case I have to have it.
quote:make an "iV" drip bottle with the fill tube and fluid bottle
I've got the IV thing ready to go, Cap to fit the quart bottle, tube, connector for the fill port. The manual said to "punch a hole in the fill bottle to allow it to vent."
Guess I'll go by Gunnells today and see it they will let me make installments on a quart of fluid.....:smiley: Still can't get past the cost of this oil, Sorry.
I use (used) an old style oil squirt can to fill mine after replacing the seals. The slight crook at the end of the squirt tube was just right to fill the helm. Hope this helps.
Again Sir, you are correct. I’m sure that explains the extra cost. Kinda like the same reason the pentagon pays $5000 for toilets.
The guy at Gunnells mentioned that this is the same oil used in the aviation industry. Oh well, If I get a plane in the near future and need a little oil, I’ll be set.
AeroShell Fluid 4 Mineral Hydraulic Oil - 1 Gallon - MIL-PRF-5606H, checked my post link, skygeek didn’t work. any way, same oil, 30 bucks a gallon,last time I got some shipping was 20 bucks.