Any tips/tricks? I am going to have to use those rubber anchor bolts since there is another layer of decking between the top fiberglass and the top of the inside of the front hatch…
Having never done this before, anyone have any advice? things to avoid? Thanks in advance
Matt
My rubber anchor bolts lasted about three fishing trips on my 15’ Scout and I had to keep tightening them. I ended up using those expensive Toggle bolts sold at West Marine http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=11151&partNumber=543785&langId=-1
However, I got some from Bar Mar Marine for cheap when they were open.
I saw that when I was searching the archives… dont you worry about the fiberglass? Did you epoxy around them when you did yours?
I used the toggles on a McKee and jut used some marine sealer and adheisive in and around the holes.
quote:
Originally posted by carolinacootI used the toggles on a McKee and jut used some marine sealer and adheisive in and around the holes.
Same here…worked MUCH better!
unless you like cutting, drilling, and sanding, dont use epoxy. its permanent. more so than 5200.
ft worry.
rig every rod you own with cajun thunders and you will at least look cool… look at all those pretty colors goin down the ole interstate. . .
I’ve installed a few trolling motors, and I always used to wrastle with getting inside areas to through bolt, and put extra lag bolts where I couldn’t reach, but Chris V turned me onto the toggles, and it made life SO much easier. Don’t even waste your time with the garbage rubber things the manufacturer sends with the motor. They are a farce.
Gotcha Covered,
Lee Strickland
Strickland Marine Insurance, Inc.
843-795-1000 / 800-446-1862
Used toggles for my leaning post. They rock.
2000 SeaPro 180CC w/ Yammy 115 2 stroke
1966 13’ Boston Whaler w/ Merc 25 4 stroke “Flatty”
thats a pretty solid set of endorsements all around, toggles it is!
for the installation, you just get someone to hold it up there while you position it and mark the holes? any tips/tricks that way? gotta make sure it clears etc, hopefully close to the centerline of the boat, in-line circuit breaker on positive terminal… am I missing anything?
Use a quick-detach plate (“dog bone”). Fasten the detachable side of the plate to the motor mount (the part that is meant to be fastened to it), and place the part that goes on the deck in place with the motor over it. Position it where you want it to be, and rock the motor off without moving the mount plate. I was able to do this without using tape. Then, mark the holes on the mount plate. Drill the holes (I think I drilled 1/2" holes at Chris’ advice), put some 5200 (or 4200 if you feel a little nervous) into around the screw collar, filling the voids, and tighten the screws down to mount the plate. It’s easy and doesn’t take very long–MUCH easier than alternative methods I’ve used in the past. I used the quick-detach plate that was sold by the motor manufaturer to match the motor. It only has 4 screw holes, and that was enough. Mount it close to the centerline, and don’t worry too much about a little hanging off the side, as long as it’s not interefering with anything, like a trailer pole, or sticking too far out. Remember, it will be detachable. Find the right balance. I would suggest against the idea of mounting it away from the centerline, which some do in order to avoid having the motor hang over a little. I had to mount my last one so that it hangs over slightly, in order to keep it close to the centerline and not take up too much deck space for casting. It’s totally no problem at all. My other boat has a 60" shaft, and if I don’t drop the motor a little before pulling it up, it can stick over enough to interfere with my trailer pole. Solution: crab the boat onto the trailer when redocking, drop the motor down a little, or shorten the trailer poles. Other than the trailer poles, it doesn’t represent a problem to me. It’s no big deal. If you have a push pole, you might want to consider placeing the motor on the side where the pole mounts. One last thing is to keep the effective cable length as short as possible without making it tight.
Hope this helps. It’s what has worked for me.