Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement??

My son’s truck (99 Chevy S10, 4.3L V-6) has been running a little hot. Hoping it was a bad hose or even a leaky radiator, I rented a pressure test kit and checked it out yesterday. Alas, not a hose or even the radiator. It appears to be a bad intake manifold gasket. After researching online, I found that is a very common problem on those motors.

I am weighing trying it myself or paying someone and am not looking forward to either prospect. I am fairly proficient mechanically speaking but dang there is a bunch of stuff that has to be removed to get that manifold off. Has anyone done this, pros, cons? Is this a DIY job or a pay someone else job?

When it rains it pours.

Thanks.

I have a 97 Chevy S10 4.3 with the same issue. Mine is not leaking bad enough to run hot, but I have to add coolant occasionally. When I took it to the mechanic he said it would be about a $500 job so I’m thinking that’s mostly labor. I didn’t get it fixed and it hasn’t gotten worse so I’m going to leave it and hope it doesn’t get worse.

Those plastic intakes were junk! It’s not too bad of a job, though. All of the gaskets are O-ring type gaskets, so they are way easier than the old cast iron ones. Everything pretty much unplugs from the wiring harness and once you bolt it all back up, they just plug back in. Just make sure that you pay close attention to torque settings for each fastener and borrow or invest in a good torque wrench and you’ll be ok.

'06 Mckee Craft
184 Marathon
DF140 Suzuki

make sure you change your oil afterwards. Hopefully your just leaking externally or into the exhaust. Coolant mixing with your oil plays heck on your rod and main bearings. Babbitt doesn’t like anti-freeze.

go by harbor freight and pick up a tube of mixed color zip ties or find a chunk of telephone wire and mark all your lines/harnesses so you don’t get anything mixed up during reassembly. most connectors are dummy proof and will only go one place anyway.

good luck.

“If Bruce Jenner can keep his wiener and be called a woman, I can keep my firearms and be considered disarmed.”

I did mine on my 2003 Suburban V8. It looked like it would be a hard job given all the stuff to remove. I was prepared to spend all day, but it was easy and only took 2-3 hours even though I was working off a stool. About $100 for the gasket from the dealer. Take pictures as you take it apart just in case, it is a lot to put back.

Not too hard but on that engine you will have to pull distributor.

sorry for you df

quote:
sorry for you df

Don’t feel sorry for me, come help me.

“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?

Pod I have to say this to DF’s request, for you to go help him! Fat CHANCE[:0]:face_with_head_bandage::imp::wink::smiley:

DF, I once had a little Toyota PU with an R22 motor in it! It started running hot and they were known for blowing head gaskets! I thought it would be an easy fix!! I even had the head milled and a valve job done after I took it apart! Never ran right again! I finally gave it away, just to get rid of it! For $500 and someone to take it back to, if it isn’t done right, is cheap!

I used to do all of our car work. Not anymore. I can spend more time and money now trying to fix them myself than I usually will paying a professional in the first place. I don’t even change our oil now. Places will do it cheaper than I can buy the oil and filter.

Capt. Larry Teuton
Swamp Worshiper

quote:
I can spend more time and money now trying to fix them myself than I usually will paying a professional in the first place.

I don’t mind doing some of my own repairs but, this has somewhat become my thinking with a job this size. My biggest dilemma is finding a mechanic I can trust to do the work correctly at a fair price. I had a friend that owned his own shop and for 35 years, if I couldn’t fix it, his shop did. He retired last year and I simply don’t have a shop I know and trust. My neighbor recommended a place last year when my truck needed an O2 sensor. When they quoted me a price of $358 for a $90 part and 15 minute repair I wrote them off.

I’ll think about it a little more but, thinking if I can find someone with a good recommendation and a decent quote I may let them have the pleasure. Thanks everyone for all the input.

“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?

Doug, For my wife’s Camry, we use Earl’s Performax on Platte Springs Rd. in the Three Fountains area of West Columbia. They were suggested by her co-workers’ Father, who has used them for yrs. They do good work and are fair. For what little work I’ve had done on my Tundra, I go to Carpenters Auto on Airport Blvd., just north of I-26. Both work on all makes.

Bob Van Gundy
Marine Designs,Inc.
Custom Aluminum Fabrication
803-727-4069

DF, I would talk to whoever you pick out, in person and in Uniform! Let them know who they are dealing with! If you got, it flaunt it :wink:

I’ll check them out Bob. As far as showing up in uniform, I’ve never really been one to try to use my job for freebies or favors. Sadly, nowadays, some folks might charge more even if I did.

“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?

Not freebies DF! Pay for the repair, but let them know your not just some smuck off the street, that can be taken advantage of! That’s all I’m saying!

Would you be willing to travel to orangeburg to have it repaired?

Depends upon the cost and whether I can get it there without over-heating. Driving it there would be of some concern as right now the oil appears to be water free but I don’t know what driving from Columbia might do. Are you a mechanic? If so, I’d be interested in your estimate for repairs. I might have access to a trailer.

“Apathy is the Glove into Which Evil Slips It’s Hand”, but really, who cares?

Lol

quote:
Originally posted by Hoppy

Lol


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WqazleR3FE

RBF

I’m classy 2% of the time…

And, I hope your Brother’s El Camino runs forever…