Keel Guard on Jet Dock Application Question

I keep my flats boat on a jet dock. The boat is painted with a two part poly paint. Over time pulling it on and off the dock wears through the paint and right on into the gel coat along the keel. I have tried soap, crisco, liquid rollers, grease you name it to get boat on and off a little easier only problem is none of those last past a trip or two. Was considering adding a keel guard to help protect the boat but a little afraid it may actually stick to the dock (guard made of rubber dock made of plastic) and cause binding issues. Anyone have any ideas on this or real life experience?

Been using keel guards for years with a jet dock. They do end up failing over time and need to be replaced


After being released, a lot of fish die, but a lot of them live also.

Could you install bunk glides? I buy aerosol silicone spray at walmart for like $2.85 & spray the glides & boat comes off very, very easy for a while & then just spray it again, doesn’t seem to harm bottom hull paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Bunk-Glides-under-inches/dp/B00CXADP02

UHMW maybe,not sure how you would attach it.

I wish I could install bunk boards but no one way to attach that I can think of.

What kind of longevity do you get Fritz? If you get two to three years it might be an option but a year or less I need other options. I know Alot of it is installing properly from the get go.

quote:
Originally posted by contender1

I wish I could install bunk boards but no one way to attach that I can think of.

What kind of longevity do you get Fritz? If you get two to three years it might be an option but a year or less I need other options. I know Alot of it is installing properly from the get go.


It's a float dock with individual floats that are connected? Can you cut the boards to fit each block and 5200 them in place?

The ENTER-NET Fisherman

No it’s made of two solid sections bolted together. It’s a Carolina Waterworks retreat 2.

they normally last 2-3 years, but i am pretty sure he uses it more than you would.
prep before the install is VERY CRITICAL

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING

Prep with acetone and not alcohol correct? I am about to install one myself

Fishing Nerd

“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”

read teh directions, SERIOUSLY

www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.bombislandboats.com
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING

Dang it does say alcohol for prep… Thanks Chris!

Fishing Nerd

“skilled labor isn’t cheap, cheap labor isn’t skilled”

I have the Retreat 2 drive-on dock and keep my flats boat on there as well. I have the same issue you do. Personally I never liked the look of the keel guard, here is what I have done to manage the situation:

  1. I installed bunk glides on the drive on. I just got the surface real clean, bought a pack of glides and positioned them where the keel hits on the dock. For my boat it is on the forward part of the dock, on the bow side of the joint (closest to the cleat on the dock). Dry fit them first, then I used stout, but short SS screws to hold them in place. I drilled the holes, then removed the glides and put the 4200 sealant (removable) under the glides then screwed them in. Let them sit for a day or so for the sealant to cure then drove the boat on it. Been about a year and still rock solid.

  2. Every couple of weeks or once a month I spray lubricant on all the rub points on the dock. Lately I’ve been using a silicone spray for $4 a can instead of liquid rollers, which is too expensive.

  3. Every 18 months or so I just have to put the boat on the trailer and slap a new coat of gelcoat onto the keel.It is only about a 60-90 minute job, I can deal with that every year or 2. Wait a day and I am back on the water. Kit is $40-$60 depending on where you buy it.

Hope this helps. I just put this under the “maintainence chores” list and deal with it. Think of all the times you DON’T have to drive to a ramp and then rinse off your trailer every time you go fishing. You are still ahead of the game. Good luck.

Thank you Cluster. Since mine is a flats boat I have minimal dead rise at the stern. I have never had the pipe bunks installed because the chines just set on the half moon bunk holders. I contacted my distributor last week looking for some ideas. He said first of all do not install a keel guard as it will bind on the dock causing more difficulties launching and retrieving. He also recommended installing the pipe bunks. With the bunks installed the boat does not have to be pulled quite as far up on the dock to keep it dry also this distributes the weight a little better says the boat is not ridding up only on the keel. I got some four-inch HDPE pipe cut some 45s on them and installed them into the bunk holders. I’ve only had the opportunity to use the boat one time since then but thus far it seems to come on to the dock easier. I am going to have my wife pull the boat on the dock next time so I can get a clear picture of how it’s coming on to perhaps make some more modifications; currently I don’t think the boat touches the roller at all. Thank you for your input I will keep you posted.

Good luck,if you need any pics or anything let me know. I have the pipe bunks and they carry a significant portion of the load, although the gel coat under that portion of the hull has not shown any wear. I basically spray the pipe bunks and center-line of the dock with the lubricant.

As a point of reference, when the back corner of my boat is right over the back corner of my dock, I am perfectly situated. Easy to push off but still stays dry.

One more idea, maybe you should just have your wife record some video on your phone of you putting the boat up on dock. That way you can review it many times and break down exactly where the friction points are through the launch/deploy process.