Are there any entry level combos out there, I do not want to put a lot of money into it yet. Looking for a good basic setup to let me see what I may want later.
I have no I idea of cost but I have read of people paying above a grand for the set up and that puts me out of it right fast.
You realy get more out of a better rod. If you spent 40 on a combo, it will be much harder to learn than on a rod w/ the correct action. for a good starter rod look at www.theflyshop.com. buy one w/ a warrenty and you’ll have it forever. expect 150-200 on a good starter- the reels are “generally” less important. the fly shops custom rod is 179 bucks w/ warrenty. find an old ross reel on ebay, get good line. and you off
http://old.charlestonfishing.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50454
15" Duracraft
25HP Johnson
It gets me around…
Charleston Angler Mt. Pleasant has some nice reddington starter combos I think most are around 250-300 range.
Jeremy
2006 16ft actioncraft flats 115 etec
quote:
Originally posted by Chasing TailCharleston Angler Mt. Pleasant has some nice reddington starter combos I think most are around 250-300 range.
Jeremy
2006 16ft actioncraft flats 115 etec
Im with Jeremy - suport you local shop !
2001 BC Phantom
Thanks I’ll start looking, Rap sounds nice not ready to pull the trigger yet still getting info will save your info though.
Go to Chas angler quick and get the TFO 9wt they have left on clearance, then get you an Okuma 7/9 Cascade reel new for about 30 bucks on Ebay. Flyline, backing, leader, and a handful of flies will set you back around 250 this way.
redington is a great rod and i havent heard any bad things about them. Sage bought them in 2004. I do know that the TFO are prone to breakage- check the backposts- some broke on the cast.
Check out the Eagle Claw Granger series fly rods on ebay.
The Okuma reels are good deals too, just make sure to rinse them well in fresh water after each use.
I introduced the EC Grangers to a guide I know from Jersey, he’s since moved to florida and uses them on his charters in Florida.
I have a 3/4 wt for freshwater trout, and a 9/10 wt for striper. I have an 8wt in another brand, but would like to replace it with a granger.
Yankee sand flea on a Southern beach.
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Support your local shop. Buy a rod with a warranty. Spend your money on the rod and the line, the reel is less important in the beginning (especially for freshwater fly fishing).
Every time I hear someone say something like “TFO rods are prone to breakage” it makes me laugh. I have a Loomis GLX, which notoriously “prone to breakage” and I’ve used and abused it for around ten years. I also have a TFO and I doubt I’ll break it either. I think most reports of specific rods being prone to breaking are the result of user error. There is probably also correlation to rods that a beginner might choose.
What breaks rods:
High sticking. Don’t ever hold your rod at much more than a 90 degree angle to the fish, especially when it’s close. Don’t expect to put a horseshoe bend in a graphite rod without weakening it. If you try to lift a fish towards you so it’s close enough to pick up, you stand a good chance of breaking any graphite rod. Don’t fight the fish on the reel all the way up to you. Strip the last several yards and leave it at your feet so you can give yourself slack to leader the fish closer.
Ferrules not tight. Do not be scared to seat the ferrules very firmly. If they are not securely snugged together, it makes a weak spot in the rod. They will also tend to loosen with a lot of casting so you need to check them occasionally.
Clouser hits. If a heavy bead-eyed fly hits a graphite rod, it will weaken it and cause it to break later when strain is put on the rod. When it does break, you won’t remember that the clouser caused the original damage. Learn to cast so that your forward cast won’t hit the rod (or the back of your head).
Don’t let a fish swim between your legs! If you are wading and a hooked spottail darts between your legs, the line will come tight and you will watch your rod break before you can think of a way to prevent it. I know because I’ve done it twice with casting rods. I still don’t have a better strategy than keeping my knees together.
I’m with Jerms on this one. You don’t need to break the bank with a rod. TFO offers some great rods for the price and warrenty. Haddrells (WA) had a reddington for sale as well. Go with the okumo reel,its great for the price, you can get a sinking line and a float line.
Can’t complain about Eagle Claw Granger Warranty, was fishin some rocks off a jetty while fishing at night, in a storm, for striper , slipped on the wet rocks & snapped off tip. Called eagle claw, sent rod back, and got a replacement rod, only cost me postage to get it there. No questions asked.
Yankee sand flea on a Southern beach.
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quote:
Originally posted by Palmetto BugEvery time I hear someone say something like “TFO rods are prone to breakage” it makes me laugh. I have a Loomis GLX, which notoriously “prone to breakage” and I’ve used and abused it for around ten years. I also have a TFO and I doubt I’ll break it either. I think most reports of specific rods being prone to breaking are the result of user error. There is probably also correlation to rods that a beginner might choose.
What breaks rods:
<hr height="1" noshad
High sticking. Don’t ever hold your rod at much more than a 90 degree angle to the fish, especially when it’s close. Don’t expect to put a horseshoe bend in a graphite rod without weakening it. If you try to lift a fish towards you so it’s close enough to pick up, you stand a good chance of breaking any graphite rod. Don’t fight the fish on the reel all the way up to you. Strip the last several yards and leave it at your feet so you can give yourself slack to leader the fish closer.
Ferrules not tight. Do not be scared to seat the ferrules very firmly. If they are not securely snugged together, it makes a weak spot in the rod. They will also tend to loosen with a lot of casting so you need to check them occasionally.
Clouser hits. If a heavy bead-eyed fly hits a graphite rod, it will weaken it and cause it to break later when strain is put on the rod. When it does break, you won’t remember that the clouser caused the original damage. Learn to cast so that your forward cast won’t hit the rod (or the back of your head).
Don’t let a fish swim between your legs! If you are wading and a hooked spottail darts between your legs, the line will come tight and you will watch your rod break before you can think of a way to prevent it. I know because I’ve done it twice with casting rods. I still don’t have a better strategy than keeping my knees together.
I have a new fly rod set up that has only been wet once. I have a few set ups and don’t need it. The rod in a St.Croix 6 wt. The reel is a Lamson Litespeed. Very nice combo and can use for any inshore fish here except Tarpon obviously. I spent about $600 on this combo with line. Sell for $400.
http://www.waterworks-lamson.com/litespeed.html New $385 with line and backing
http://www.stcroixrods.com/rods/default2.asp?rodname=3§ion=fly New $210
“Plan like you will live forever but live like you will die tomorrow.”
quote:
Originally posted by Faith and GraceI have a new fly rod set up that has only been wet once. I have a few set ups and don’t need it. The rod in a St.Croix 6 wt. The reel is a Lamson Litespeed. Very nice combo and can use for any inshore fish here except Tarpon obviously. I spent about $600 on this combo with line. Sell for $400.
http://www.waterworks-lamson.com/litespeed.html New $385 with line and backing
http://www.stcroixrods.com/rods/default2.asp?rodname=3§ion=fly New $210“Plan like you will live forever but live like you will die tomorrow.”
I emailed you faith.
2006 16ft actioncraft flats 115 etec
Chaising Tail,
I never received an email from you.
“Plan like you will live forever but live like you will die tomorrow.”
Did you check your junk mail?
Jeremy
2006 16ft actioncraft flats 115 etec
No I haven’t. When I get home later tonight I will check.
“Plan like you will live forever but live like you will die tomorrow.”