My Magic Tilt consistently floats to the left or right with the tide when I’m backing down the ramp to pull out the boat. Looks like the design traps air in the frame. I suspect drilling air holes would void the warranty (confirming w/ the Magic Tilt rep). Has anyone resolved a similar issue?
My advise would be don’t back down so far. Trailers with bunks are meant to be self centering but this doesn’t work if they are too deep. Watch people at a ramp loading boats and the guys who sink their trailer try to pull up and the boat sits on the trailer crooked every time. Trim the motor up a little and slowly power up between the bunks and you will be surprised. Also, for what it’s worth, I have a 22’ boat with a large tandem axle trailer and my trailer will float if I back too deep and mine is an aluminum I beam with nowhere to trap air. The tires float it. Hope this helps.
2005 Sea Hunt 212 Triton
“Head East”
I heard back from the Magic Tilt rep very quickly. He suggested I drill a 1/2" hole in each of the frame end caps in the back. He also sent these photos showing other locations to drill. We’ll see how this works. Hope it is helpful to someone else.
Sea Fox Commander 186
I would certainly not want to introduce saltwater INSIDE of a piece of aluminum that I cannot for sure adequately rinse of said corrosive saltwater…
How long is your warranty?
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
If you decide to drill it drill close to bottom so it will drain !!!
quote:
Originally posted by leadenwahboyI would certainly not want to introduce saltwater INSIDE of a piece of aluminum that I cannot for sure adequately rinse of said corrosive saltwater…
How long is your warranty?
Wadmalaw native
16’ Bentz-Craft Flats Boat
Wouldn’t want to drill it, but if only a hole in the bottom, the trapped air will not be able to get out.
May need top and bottom.
Good luck,
NN
What Head East said. The tires are doing the floating. I don’t know if that can be worked around.
oc
do the same thing we do to a boat lift- bolt some lead bars on the outside of the bunk boards where the boat won’t hit them
head east has given you the solution
www.teamcharlestonmarine.com
www.joinrfa.org
IF I RESPOND IN ALL CAPS, ITS NOT ON PURPOSE, AND I AM NOT YELLING
Head east is correct. With that said I have had mine float even when backed to proper depth under extreme tidal conditions at the Riverland Terrace boat ramp. I actually ended up having to put just the nose of the boat on the trailer to hold it down then carefully backed the truck down the ramp and under the trailer simultaneously. I rarely use this ramp because of this. Really wish the county could put in a break water there to help on full moon days.
I ended up drilling holes in the end caps. Water can already get in that area so I decided to start small. We’ll see if that helps. Lead blanks may also be an option for weight. Thanks for the ■■■■■■■■ everyone. Will keep you posted.
Sea Fox 186 Commander
Quick update: the two holes coupled with backing down only far enough to keep the tops of the fenders exposed did the trick. It took a few more cranks of the wench but no floating in the current. Thanks for the input everyone who replied to my question.
Sea Fox 186 Commander
Man, that’s better than putting concrete in the tires!