which is better? buying a tapered leader or making your own using decreasing strengths of mono?
in the grass, id say tapered knotless- knots tend to hang in the grass. knotted leaders do tend to turn over better
No knots to fail on a tapered leader… Also, they don’t pick up weeds and such in the grass. I like a tapered leader with a length of fluorocarbon Surgeon knotted at the end. Works for me.
I recommend a 9 footer. 54 inches of 40#’ 27 inches of 30#, and 27 inches of 20#.
All mono. That leader will turn over a brick.
Advantages to both for sure, knotless dont hang up and dont have any week points…but its much less expensive to make your own and you can make them exactly how you want depending on what rod or fly you are using…i really enjoy making my own, i can make longer slower tapering leaders for soft winter presentation or shorter faster tapering ones for tailers that will turn over heavier flies very effectively, if you make your own i would recommend learning the blood knot…the tags ends dont stick out in a manner that catches very much grass as can happen with a uni-uni connection or a surgeons knot, grapex’s leader formula is def a winner
I prefer my own made leaders. I have had far less “break offs” with them, then what I used to encounter with store bought tapered leaders. Could just be me, that’s just my opinion and experience.
I connect each portion of my leader using a loop to loop method…perfection loops on both ends. The tags can be trimmed off right next to the knot, and I never deal with snags in the grass.
And its a lot cheaper 
I use 6ft of 20# mono, uni to uni knot and 2ft of 12# to 15# flouro. done. I rarely hvae grass stuck on my ONE knot and the leader turns flies over with no problem. Plain, simple and it catches fish. Oh yeah and cheap too 
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quote:
Originally posted by OTF312which is better?..
</font id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”>Because, I’m fishing in water that has crap in it, either in the grass of mud flats with whatever that stuff is that gets stuck on your flies and knots, I prefer tapered. Many times you don’t have more than one shot at a fish and if you get muck stuck on a knot it effects the presentation tremendously. You have to haul the line in, clean the weed fragments off and try to spot the fish again. Just seems to add some unnecessary trouble.I don’t get the advantage of cost either. I fly fish all the time and seldom switch leaders. A leader can easily last a year and likely much longer. So, it’s one time small expense for the better leader, for me.
quote:
Originally posted by grapexI recommend a 9 footer. 54 inches of 40#’ 27 inches of 30#, and 27 inches of 20#.
All mono. That leader will turn over a brick.
similar to what i have been using in the past, never had a problem but i figured there had to be a reason so many ppl were using tapered leader.
“all this for a fish”
tyoneon,are you using tippet also to save leader material when you change flies?
quote:Yep. Tippet with blood knot. Though, the first few flies are usually tied directly to the leader.
Originally posted by abbapoolafishertyoneon,are you using tippet also to save leader material when you change flies?
I just use a straight leader, if the fish are toothy or around oysters I like 25 pound, if I am fishing clear water 15 pound. When I started off I used tapered leaders, both homemade and from the store. I have not noticed a decrease in the catch due to the straight leader.
I use 9 ft. of 20# test. With the weight of most salt water flies, the turning it over issue is non-existent, IMO. I understand it for a #24 dry fly on a 3 wt. but not for redfish.
I use 9 ft. of 20# test. With the weight of most salt water flies, the turning it over issue is non-existent, IMO. I understand it for a #24 dry fly on a 3 wt. but not for redfish.